Translated from French, (remontance) means “blooming again.”

And the peculiarity of remontant plant varieties is that they can bloom and bear fruit within one season.

Remontance is present in raspberries, strawberries, strawberries, and some types of citrus fruits. Particularly popular among gardeners are remontant strawberries, which are capable of yielding delicious juicy berries twice.

Repair strawberry. Distinctive features

Remontant strawberries differ from ordinary ones in that immediately after the first fruiting they begin to lay buds and set new berries that can produce a full harvest. Due to their ability to bear fruit twice, such strawberries require more frequent watering and high-quality fertile soil, but the average yield from one bush will be less than that of garden strawberries.

However, the desire to enjoy the delicate taste of strawberries out of season does not stop gardeners from facing such difficulties. Bushes of such strawberries produce a full harvest from mid-spring to late autumn. If you want to use strawberries in the preparation of delicious compotes and berry delicacies in winter, then it’s a good idea to learn how to freeze strawberries according to all the rules.

Compared to garden varieties, remontant strawberries have weak foliage, rather small berries and are short-lived. The reason for this lies in the constant reloading of yield, because not every plant is able to cope with such a serious load - to bear fruit twice in a season.

As a rule, the first harvest of remontant strawberries is smaller than the second, and the ratio between the two fruitings can be expressed in percentage: 30% - first harvest, 70% - second.

It should not be surprising that not all strawberry bushes can withstand the load and after the first harvest, some of them die. At best, a strong remontant strawberry bush can live for about three years.

If you want to ensure a richer second harvest in the fall, then you need to learn to sacrifice the first harvest. To do this, in the spring you should trim the flower stalks, since in terms of taste, such strawberries will be inferior to garden varieties.

If you need tendrils, and the area where the strawberries grow is already weakened, you should sacrifice the second harvest. In this case, the strawberry planting needs to be fed nitrogen fertilizers in July and cut off all flower stalks as they appear. This procedure is necessary so that strawberry bushes do not waste their reserves of energy on forming rosettes.

Popular varieties of remontant strawberries

Today, there are a large number of varieties of remontant strawberries, both domestic and foreign selection. Each variety has its own advantages and disadvantages, and the choice depends solely on your needs. Naturally, in first place are taste qualities strawberries, but if the summer cottage is far away, then properties such as disease resistance and good transportability are no less important.

Let's look at the most popular varieties of remontant strawberries among gardeners:

Mice Nova characterized by sweet, dense, fragrant berries dark red

Hanging strawberry Great for growing in hanging pots

White dream– a strawberry variety with white and pink berries and a delicate pineapple flavor

Arapaho has a high yield, the taste of the berries is sour-sweet

Irma– a variety resistant to lack of moisture, with very powerful bushes

Lyubasha (Lyubava) considered the most versatile variety, which is also characterized by frost resistance

Tribute, Red Rich, Geneva, Superfection, Tristar, Ozark Beauty, Fort Laremy - long-loved varieties of remontant strawberries

Planting remontant strawberries

First of all, you should decide on the choice of variety that you would like to grow. The merits of strawberries can only be assessed by taste, and for comparison, you can grow several selected varieties so that you can then choose the one you like best.

The purity of the variety will only be preserved if seedlings are grown from seeds. For planting, it is best to use land intended for growing vegetable crops. Bring the soil moisture to 70-80%; to do this, add 750 ml of water per 1 kg of dry substrate, mix everything thoroughly so that there are no lumps.

A container made of dense material with a diameter of 10-15 cm is suitable for planting seedlings. It should be filled with prepared soil, leaving about 3 cm of free space on top.

Scatter strawberry seeds on top, lightly sprinkle with dry soil and spray with water from a spray bottle. The whole point is that in natural conditions Strawberry seeds fall on the soil and germinate under certain conditions. So, the seeds must be open to sunlight - this is one of the prerequisites for the appearance large quantity sprouts

Containers with seeds should be covered with transparent plastic wrap on top and placed in a warm place. After 3 weeks, the first shoots will begin to appear, which should be watered periodically.

Planting sprouts in the garden

At the beginning of May, strawberry seedlings should be planted in beds, which must first be cleared of weeds, loosened and composted. You should dig a hole in the garden bed, water it with water, then carefully remove the remontant strawberry seedling from the pot along with a lump of earth, sprinkle the root system with a preparation like “Kornevin” and plant it in the hole. The soil around each seedling should be well compacted, without voids inside.

Care during flowering and fruiting

To provide the root system with air exchange, it is necessary to regularly loosen the soil near the bushes. To prevent the roots of the plant from being exposed, soil should be added periodically. Remontant strawberries should be watered abundantly not only from a watering can, but also with a ladle.

During the flowering period, the bushes should be fed with mineral fertilizers designed specifically for strawberries and with an infusion of bird droppings. But fertilizer mixtures for flowers or vegetables are not suitable.

Strawberry bushes should be regularly inspected and weeded. If the berries are lying on the ground, they should be raised using a ring-shaped wire support. If you want to get larger berries, you should constantly pick off the tendrils. Strawberries at home can yield 10-30% more than those grown in the usual way.

Pest Control

If aphids begin to overwhelm strawberries, then to combat them you should prepare a solution consisting of several heads of garlic, poured into three liters cold water. After a week, the solution will be ready, and they need to treat the strawberry bushes with aphids using a sprayer.

If wasps are attracted to your strawberries, then in order to distract them from the berries, place jars of sweet compote around the beds.

If the berries become the object of attention of birds, in this case it is recommended to scatter red ones around the bushes. glass balls, used in interior design. Having tried to peck such balls, the birds no longer touch the strawberries.

Repair strawberry. Autumn planting and preparation for wintering

During autumn planting, you should not tear off the first-order mustaches from the mother bush; they need to be rooted in disposable cups with soil. At the end of the season, you should collect all the cups with rosettes and only then separate them from the mother plant to plant them in the garden. The distance between the bushes should be 20 cm. Water the new bush very little, as excess moisture will be harmful to the plant.

With the onset of winter, remontant strawberries should experience light frosts several times, after which all leaves from the bushes should be cut off and covered with non-woven material.

What surprises does nature have in store for people! However, fairy tales do not come out of nowhere, but also the naked truth they cannot be named either. But strawberries really have healing properties, helping to restore a person’s memory.

Strawberries are often confused with wild strawberries. The difference between these plants is small, but still there. Strawberries are more productive and their berries are much smaller in size than strawberries. But strawberries have a more delicate and softer taste and aroma of the fruit.

Strawberries are classified as dioecious plants due to the presence of “different-sex” bushes: the formation of female and male flowers occurs separately from each other. For good strawberry fruiting, which this plant can please its owner, it is quite enough to select 1-2 male bushes in addition to 4-6 female bushes.

Strawberry leaves are much larger than strawberry leaves: highly corrugated (wrinkled, pulled together), coarsely toothed, sawtooth, always above which are peduncles. The plant itself is quite tall and large in structure, but its flowers are smaller than those of strawberries.

Strawberry, like its “cousin,” differs from other berry plants in the early ripening of fruits and their taste and aromatic qualities. In addition, it bears fruit quickly and reproduces easily. The root system, by its natural formation, belongs to the fibrous type and is a kind of “monopoly” in relation to the total mass of the entire plant - it occupies more than 70%.

The most favorable places for strawberries to grow are level soils not deprived of sunlight. This plant does not like very windy and dry weather. Therefore, before planting strawberries, a certain place in the garden is allocated for it, either protected by some buildings from the prevailing winds, or deepened with a spade bayonet and leveled. The soil for this must be pre-prepared and constantly monitored so that over time a dry soil crust does not form on it and there is no stagnation of water - this will have a detrimental effect on the life of the plant, since the process of natural gas exchange will be difficult, and strawberries like to “breathe”.

Strawberries reproduce using so-called “whiskers”, shoots that appear from the axillary lower lateral buds of the plant. After leafy rosettes with small adventitious roots have formed on the “mustache”, these shoots from female plant neatly separated sharp knife(or a spatula) and are used to form a new strawberry plantation. It is not recommended to take shoots from old plantings - the harvest will be poor in quantity and quality. The best seedlings will be the offspring of healthy “two-year-olds”, which produced more harvest, unlike all the others, and have fibrous roots on not too elongated “mustaches”, located closer to the bush.

When transporting prepared seedlings to another site, it is necessary to place them in plastic or cellophane bags with moist soil and be sure to carry out additional “superficial” moistening by spraying with drinking water.

Strawberries are planted at a certain time, and within a year the plant is able to produce its first harvest. As you know, it is not recommended to constantly “keep” strawberries in the same place personal plot: affected various diseases Some bushes of this plant, thanks to their roots, leave a kind of epicenter of the disease in the soil, which negatively affects the development and fruiting of the first planted crop, and various kinds of pests over time begin to “get used” to the permanent location of the plant and often settle there.

Therefore, for favorable growth of strawberries, planting sites are changed every 3-4 years (or as the yield decreases). In the place where the peas were last planted or early vegetables, which do not leave behind a large amount of “garbage” in the soil, unlike onions or cucumbers, you can freely move the strawberries and plant some other garden crop in its original place. With this changing method of places, you can “deceive” pests that adore certain crops, and over time affecting plants diseases.

In general, strawberries are unpretentious in choosing their place of residence - they grow “anywhere,” but if the soil in the garden plot is dominated by sandstones and clay, then it would be good to fertilize it with peat. And yet, of all types of soils, she prefers medium loamy ones. Strawberries do not thrive in acidic soils, but if it so happens that the majority of a plot of land is endowed with just this type of soil, then it needs to be “improved” for strawberry crops.

The acidity of the soil is reduced in advance (a year before planting) by adding ground limestone to it: 450 g per 1 sq.m. landing area. Additionally, over time, mineral fertilizers and fertilizers are added to the soil for strawberries: fresh manure, potassium chloride and superphosphate, which must be used when preparing sites for new plantations, regardless of the type of soil.

After preparing the most favorable place for proper growth and a good harvest, strawberries are planted in two ways: in dry places (in open sun) it is necessary to plant them in deep grooves, and in areas that do not dry out well in the spring - in low beds. The approximate distance between bushes in a row is a quarter of a meter, and between rows - at least 50 cm.

The seedlings are carefully placed in pre-dug holes, pressing against one edge so that you can take advantage of the free space and straighten the roots. Then it is leveled and covered with earth. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the growing point of an individual branch of the strawberry stem peeks out a little. After this, regardless of the soil moisture, the seedlings are watered abundantly, allowing the roots to press tightly against it as the water penetrates deeper. And all that remains is to fertilize the deepened area around the plant with a small layer of peat or manure.

It is best to plant strawberries by mid to late August. cloudy weather when there is a light drizzle, there is a greater likelihood that next summer there will be good harvest.

Tasty and juicy strawberries contain a rich diet of all kinds of health benefits. human body nutrients. The quantitative content of citric, salicylic, malic and other acids depends mainly on environment and weather conditions, as well as from careful handling of the plant during its development, but it is never deprived of them.

The huge content of iron, manganese, iodine, fluorine, copper, zinc, carotene, vitamins B, C, PP and P-active substances in strawberry fruits has a positive effect on the human body with a general loss of strength. By constantly eating strawberries, you can get rid of the appearance of kidney stones and stabilize the functioning of the urethra. For hypertension and vascular sclerosis, it is good to use the juice of the fruits of this unique plant. And if a patient with a stomach ulcer is constantly tormented by unbearable pain, fresh berries will undoubtedly help.

In folk medicine, it is recommended to use strawberry infusion against periodontal disease and other diseases of the oral cavity. And if the body’s illness is associated with the appearance of various types of eczema and skin rashes, then strawberry juice is simply necessary.

It often happens in a family that a small child begins to be seriously capricious, refusing the next portion of cottage cheese. What to do in this case? Punish? It would be much easier to add a couple of strawberries to the “hated” dish, and all problems would be solved within a few seconds. In addition, it is good to add crushed strawberries to freshly prepared tea - both pleasant and healthy.

Since ancient times, strawberries have been considered a love spell, working flawlessly in most cases: an unhappy girl, rejected by a kind young man, collected the fragrant berries in a wicker basket and, with the help of an old grandmother-healer, made a “love elixir” in the fresh air. The charmed drink was served to the table, and at the moment when the unsuspecting young man raised the glass to his lips, the girl read out a memorized prayer “about the secrets of her heart and the torments of her soul.” As a result, after some time the young man’s family sent matchmakers.

But one very wealthy woman, with the help of strawberries, was able to identify the thieves who broke into her house late at night, who, oddly enough, turned out to be the sons of her husband’s best friends.

Being the wife of the president of one of the well-known companies in the production of cosmetics, she, at her personal request, repeatedly subjected her pretty face to all sorts of tests associated with the new release of a cream or lotion, the composition of which she sometimes had to “make” herself from various natural ingredients. And then one fine evening, when at a friendly meeting of secular society this lady unexpectedly quarreled with her beloved and went home without waiting for the festive fireworks, two young people were admitted to a local clinic with a diagnosis of speech loss one and broken both legs of the other.

And this happened because the woman, offended by her husband’s words about the aging of her skin due to the experiments being carried out, decided to prove him wrong. Returning home, she prepared a rough version of another cream-mask for the face and locked herself in the bathroom. After some time, for some reason, the lights were turned off, but the purposeful woman went to the kitchen for a candle and continued her work, without even paying any attention to the flickering light on the second floor. own home flashlight beam.

Finally, having decorated the white “work” on her face with ripe and juicy slices of strawberries, the lady decided to read a little in order to have a good time while the mask was applied. But suddenly strange sounds came to her ears from the floor above. Assuming that her husband had returned from the party “good” and went straight to the bedroom, she went upstairs.

Hearing the creaking of the floorboards, the thieves hid near the secretary: they knew for sure that no one should be at home - everyone was at the party. But seeing a light flickering in the darkness, they rushed to open window, turning over with a roar along the way small table. The woman screamed and grabbed the ax hanging on the carpet at the entrance. The fallen candle rolled to the side, and the tail of its flame lightly touched the bear skin lying on the floor. That, in turn, instantly flared up, illuminating the figure of a woman dressed in a white shirt with a red and white face and a formidable weapon in her hands.

Out of surprise, one thief, who managed to climb through the window, fell down unsuccessfully, and the other simply froze in place, awaiting his death. After the woman recognized a man she knew in the guy standing by the window, she did not call the police and immediately called an ambulance to help his friend. But, as it turned out later, health care it was useful to both of them - after all, this strawberry is a terrible thing!

As a cosmetic product, strawberries relieve fatigue and tension, giving facial skin a fresh and healthy look. Many girls, who have been embarrassed by the appearance of freckles at certain times of the year since childhood, used strawberries to “destroy” their faces. sunbeams" And this method quickly spread among the “fighters” for a clean and pleasant face.

But in order to use strawberries in food, cosmetic or medicinal applications, you need to know the methods of properly growing, harvesting, storing them and constantly monitor the emerging changes associated with characteristic diseases of the crop during the development of the plant, and also learn how to deal with various types pests.

The most common pests of strawberries are insects such as flower beetles, strawberry mites and slugs.

The flower beetle (or, as it is otherwise called, the strawberry-raspberry weevil) infests strawberries during their flowering and hides on the weeds growing nearby. If you notice that strawberry buds that have withered or fallen at the moment of color are gnawed near the stalks, then you can immediately draw the conclusion: a flower beetle has been at work here.

You can fight it only by natural collection, shaking the beetles onto a damp piece of sheet and destroying the weeds at the same time. By the way, the appearance of a beetle can be avoided by “maintaining” a decent planting distance between strawberries and raspberries.

Slugs, which breed in a humid environment, eat away the pulp of strawberries in small pits and thereby spoil the ripened fruits.

It is very easy to catch such pests. It is enough to create for them favorable conditions for life: among the strawberry bushes, lay out ordinary handkerchiefs, generously moistened with water, or wet bunches of grass, and then check the “traps” from time to time. The slugs caught on the “hook” are destroyed naturally, and the remaining pests among plantation strawberry thickets are found by looking at lumps of earth in sunny or hot weather - they hide in the shade or burrow into the surface of the slug and soil.

It will be more difficult with strawberry (or strawberry) mites. There is no point in “catching” him - he is too small and inconspicuous. It feeds on the sap of the plant's leaves, after which they become wrinkled and spotted brown. This immediately affects the natural growth of strawberries and the quality of the berries. In addition, the fruits become significantly smaller in size.

The home of the strawberry mite is the base of the leaf petioles (in winter) and the leaves themselves on the back side (in spring). But you can fight him - he’s not so elusive!

To do this, it is necessary to thoroughly treat the strawberry plantation with an infusion of garlic and onion or a colloidal solution of sulfur powder with water: 30 g of powder per 5 liters of warm water. If the mite's visits are repeated, then after harvesting it is necessary to resort to rejuvenation of the strawberries and completely cut off the entire surface part of the plant, then burn the leaves and stems.

The strawberry diseases that most often affect the plant are gray rot and leaf spot.

The first of them appears due to improper handling of the plant and improper care behind him. The presence of a large amount of moisture and supersaturation of nitrogen and organic fertilizers, which must be limited, leads to the appearance of a gray fluffy coating on the surface of the leaves.

Leaf spot is a multi-species fungal disease that causes plant leaves to die. To avoid this, you need to make recent transactions, as when a strawberry mite is detected, only after “cutting” the plantation, spray all the cuttings remaining from the plant with a liquid consisting of a mixture: 150 g of quicklime, the same amount copper sulfate and 5 liters of water.

But to ensure that these troubles never happen, you need to keep an eye on the strawberries. So follow the advice of experts before you invent your own strawberry production methods.

Cucumber is one of the most favorite garden crops of our summer residents. However, not all and not always gardeners manage to get a really good harvest. And although growing cucumbers requires regular attention and care, there is little secret, which will significantly increase their productivity. We are talking about pinching cucumbers. Why, how and when to pinch cucumbers, we will tell you in the article. An important point in the agricultural technology of cucumbers is their formation, or type of growth.

Summer is associated with beautiful flowers. Both in the garden and in the rooms you want to admire the luxurious inflorescences and touching flowers. And for this it is not at all necessary to use cut bouquets. In the assortment of the best indoor plants There are many beautiful flowering species. They are in the summer when they get the most bright lighting and optimal daylight hours, they can outshine any bouquet. Short-lived or just annual crops also look like living bouquets.

Pie with sardines and potatoes - quick, tasty, simple! This pie can be baked both on weekends and on weekdays, and it will also decorate a modest holiday table. In principle, any canned fish - natural with the addition of oil - is suitable for the filling. With pink salmon or salmon the taste will be a little different, with saury, sardines or mackerel it’s so delicious! The potatoes are placed in the pie raw, so they need to be cut very thin so that they have time to bake. You can use a vegetable cutter.

Summer is in full swing. Planting in gardens and vegetable gardens is mostly completed, but worries have not diminished, because the hottest months of the year are on the calendar. The temperature scale of the thermometer often exceeds +30 °C, preventing our plants from growing and developing. How can we help them cope with the heat? The tips we will share in this article will be useful for both country and city residents. After all, indoor plants also have a hard time during this period. In hot weather, plants need watering.

For many gardeners, slugs are a real nightmare. Although you might think, what’s wrong with these, at first glance, peaceful, sedentary creatures? But in fact, they can cause significant harm to your plants and crops. Not only do slugs persistently eat leaves, flowers and fruits in spring and summer, but with the onset of cold weather, these land mollusks move into the cellar and there they continue to destroy what you have so carefully grown and collected.

Spelled horns with beef - quick dish for dinner or lunch. IN Lately spelt (spelt wheat) becomes popular among supporters proper nutrition and not only. This tasty cereal is used to prepare porridges, soups, spelled and pasta. In this recipe for spelled cones, we will prepare healthy navy-style pasta with a sauce made from vegetables and lean ground beef. The recipe is suitable for those who watch their figure and like to cook healthy food at home.

The incredible blooms on your favorite cacti and succulents always seem even more delectable because of the amazing hardiness of the plants themselves. Luxurious bells and dazzling stars remind you that nature has many miracles in store. And although many indoor succulents need special conditions wintering, they still remain crops that require minimal care and are suitable for everyone. Let's take a closer look at the most spectacular of them.

Summer snack with quail eggs and red caviar - a simple vegetable salad with a spicy sweet and sour dressing that goes well with eggs and caviar. The salad is an explosion of vitamins - fresh cucumber and radish, sweet pepper and ripe tomato, and also creamy curd cheese, which perfectly complements the vegetable mix. This dish can be served before lunch as a light snack with toast. For dressing, unrefined oil and balsamic vinegar are suitable.

Linden is planted in parks and squares; slender trees with spreading crowns perfectly purify the air and give long-awaited coolness on a hot summer day. She is loved for the amazing honey aroma that envelops her in late May and early June, when the linden blossom appears. It has valuable medicinal properties and is used in many folk recipes, retains its beneficial qualities for a long time. How and when to collect it, how to properly dry, store and use it will be discussed in the article.

Sometimes, when observing certain plants during the growing season, you cannot decide when you like it best - in spring, summer or autumn? Here is Japanese spirea among these plants. Her appearance is constantly changing. And although I chose to write this article the moment when it blooms, I’m still not sure that I’m right. In spring and autumn, its foliage plays with incredible colors and shades. But, in addition to beauty, it is also an unpretentious shrub.

Baby formula candy with coconut and waffles is a simple homemade dessert made from inexpensive and readily available ingredients. Homemade sweets turn out tastier than store-bought ones, even if they don’t contain chocolate; of course, we don’t take into account the elite brands of chocolate makers. During times of total food shortages, housewives passed on homemade recipes to each other, added something of their own to it, fantasized, and the result was delicious candies that were easy to prepare in half an hour.

Sultry, bright, and inviting you to relax in the garden, July leaves not much time for a lazy pastime. Dependence on the weather, the need to make up for the lack of precipitation and compensate for the heat forces all efforts to be directed to caring for plants. And a ripening harvest requires a lot of time not only for harvesting, but also for proper processing. IN ornamental garden There is so much hassle in the garden that planning the work in advance is extremely problematic.

Freezing berries and fruits is the best way to provide yourself with vitamins throughout the winter. Cold is a natural preservative. Frozen berries and fruits retain almost one hundred percent of their benefits. And frozen currants, for example, contain many times more vitamin C than fresh ones! You can freeze whatever you want. Usually these are strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, mulberries, currants, sea buckthorn, even watermelon. Fruits: apricots, plums, pears, peaches, grapes.

Mediterranean style Lavender angustifolia is ideal for use in the garden. Many gardeners would not only like to add this plant to their flower garden, but even plant their own lavender field. But lavender seedlings are quite expensive, and a lot of lavender remains a pipe dream for most. Try growing this herb from seeds. In this article we will talk about the features seed propagation angustifolia lavender and its best varieties.

Tubular dark red flowers flare up like tongues of flame on the thick, spreading, elegant bushes of aeschynanthus. The delightful textures of the plant, the severity of the lines and the restrained combination of red and dark green are a true indoor classic. Aeschynanthus is in no way inferior to more fashionable exotic plants. And by its whimsicality - first of all. This is one of the most difficult indoor plants to grow and requires little regular care.

*****All about strawberries.

Juicy and aromatic strawberries are the very first berry of the season. Strawberries contain a number of useful vitamins and microelements. In terms of the amount of vitamin C, strawberries are ahead of citrus fruits, and the calcium they contain in this compound is completely absorbed by the body. Rich in antioxidants, healthy and delicious, strawberries are a favorite treat for children and adults and, of course, a favorite plant for gardeners.

Strawberry, Latin - , folk - midday.

Perennial herbaceous plant genus strawberry of the Rosaceae family. Plants of the garden strawberry type are often mistakenly called strawberries.

It grows wild in Europe; It is also cultivated mainly in Europe (France, Great Britain, Germany, etc.). In terms of productivity, it is inferior to garden strawberries. Demanding on moisture, shade-tolerant. Agricultural technology coincides with the agricultural technology of garden strawberries.

The calyx consists of five fused sepals, the corolla - of five free petals. Large trifoliate leaves are light green in color, located on stems 30-35 cm high. The flowers are usually unisexual (there are varieties with bisexual flowers in cultivation), five-petaled, white, with double perianth. Peduncles are higher than the stems.
What is usually called a strawberry is actually an overgrown receptacle, on the surface of which there are numerous small fruits - nuts.

Preparing a site for garden strawberries

The eternal enemy of potatoes - Colorado beetle, does not ignore strawberry seedlings. Therefore, even before planting strawberries, the soil should be checked for the presence of cockchafer larvae and wireworms. The likelihood of their presence in the soil increases as the site approaches the forest belt. The critical content of larvae per unit area is 0.5 / sq. m. In this case, ammonia water is added to the soil at the rate of 2t/ha or alkaloid lupine is planted. Eating its beans, the larvae die. If the area is too clogged with perennial grass weeds, in the fall the soil is treated with Roundup at a rate of 3 l/ha. At the beginning of October, the soil is plowed to a depth of 25 - 30 cm. In winter, snow retention is an excellent measure to maintain and increase soil moisture. In the spring, the soil is harrowed and just before planting, it is cultivated to a depth of 14–16 cm.

Fertilizers for strawberries are applied depending on the results of your analysis. chemical composition soil.

Quality of strawberry seedlings

In order for the strawberry harvest to please you with the abundance and quality of berries, experienced gardeners It is recommended to use pre-sorted and pre-healthed seedlings with a root collar diameter of at least 6 mm, and the root system itself should be fibrous and have a size in the root shoots of at least 7 - 9 cm. The best varieties for planting are elite or 1st reproduction. You can't go wrong if you choose seedlings of frigo plants for planting, i.e. those that are dug up in late autumn and stored throughout the winter at low temperatures.

Garden strawberry seedlings are planted in early spring or early autumn. It is important not to be late with the planting date, and to carry it out as early as the possibilities of field work allow. If you are late with the spring planting dates, most of plants may die.

Autumn planting is carried out in the range from August 10 to September 20 - 25, after the next rain, or, if possible, after watering. WITH autumn planting being late is just as disastrous for future strawberries as it is for spring ones.

Planting strawberry seedlings

Before planting, seedlings are kept in a cool place for no more than 5 days. Most best soil for planting - moist, but not wet. During planting, make sure that the box with seedlings is in the shade. If everything is done correctly, the root collar should be at ground level, and the root system should be vertical. Roots that are too long are shortened to 8–10 cm. Then water it. To prevent a crust from forming, immediately after watering, mulch the ground with humus or dry soil.

Care

Care during cultivation

To grow strawberries, an irrigation system must be provided: a sprinkler or drip irrigation. Strawberries are a fairly moisture-dependent crop, and therefore you should not rely on natural precipitation when growing them, since due to the lack of moisture during critical periods of growth, even for 10-15 days, the yield is significantly reduced.

Irrigation features: During the first two weeks after planting, the soil must be kept moist so that the plants take root well. To do this, the soil should be moistened every day by 2-3 mm (20-30 m3/ha). For the next 2 weeks, watering is carried out if necessary once every 2 days.

At the same time, strawberries cannot withstand excessive moisture. When the soil is waterlogged, fewer generative buds are formed, winter hardiness and resistance to diseases, especially gray rot and powdery mildew, are reduced.

Caring for plants before harvest

Row spacing should be free of weeds. To achieve this, approved herbicides are used and mechanical cultivation or manual weeding is carried out regularly. There is experience in covering row spacing with straw (preferably wheat) or film, but this technology requires additional costs. The appearance and growth of pests and diseases on the plantation should be constantly monitored. Along with the use of chemicals, it is becoming increasingly popular biological protection, such as the use of entomophagous insects in pest control, etc.

The cultivation technology depends on the chosen planting scheme:
· High-density planting - form a continuous fruit-bearing strip
· Medium-density fit (high-quality reclaimed material):
plants in a row are separated without tearing off the tendrils and shoots;
They tear off the tendrils and shoots of the plant to strengthen it.

Depending on the chosen growing technology, the harvest may not be collected in the year of planting.

To do this, the flower stalks are carefully torn off in the first year, strengthening the main plant. If plants begin to fall out (due to diseases or soil pests), the plantings should be regularly repaired.

Harvesting

Varieties of early, medium and medium-late ripening bear fruit throughout June. Harvesting time and degree of ripeness are determined depending on the variety and purpose of the collected berries. For direct sale of berries fresh or for processing, strawberries are harvested when they are fully ripe, when they acquire the best taste. For transportation over long distances, fruits should be collected in the technical maturity phase (unripe). For sale through the retail chain, the berries are collected together with the stalks. Processing plants may require products to be delivered without stems. It is not advisable to pick wet berries, as they quickly rot.

If strawberries are grown over a large area, you should think in advance about the available labor for harvesting. You need to pick carefully, making sure that the berries do not wrinkle. To do this, before harvesting, it is necessary to properly instruct the pickers (do not bring glass things to the field, have short nails to prevent damage to the fruit, etc.). The collection point must be equipped with a sun canopy. Without refrigeration, strawberries can be stored without losing commercial quality for 10 to 20 hours, depending on the variety. Fresh products can be kept in a cooling room (+4°C) for up to 3 days.

The best containers are small baskets, plastic or paper bags with a capacity of 1-3 kg. It is not advisable to pour berries collected for sale into another container.

Quite common in the West is the “pick it yourself” method, when people themselves come to the farmer and pick strawberries there, which they then buy at a price much lower than in the supermarket.

Mowing leaves

To stimulate the growth of young leaves and free plants from disease infections and pests after harvesting, you can mow the foliage. This event is not mandatory; mowing is advisable only when the plantation is poorly maintained.

On average, foliage is mowed 3 weeks after the end of harvest. Early mowing weakens the plants, which can negatively affect their overwintering and productivity the following year.

Delayed mowing leads to poor differentiation of the buds. After mowing and raking the foliage, a comprehensive measure of pest and disease control, inter-row cultivation of the soil, and fertilizing should be carried out mineral fertilizers. That is, after mowing, the agricultural background of the plantation should be quite high.

Winter care

Strawberry plants successfully withstand low temperatures in winter when there is snow cover. A layer of snow 10-15 cm thick (preferably 20 cm) protects the planting from low temperatures down to -25-30°C. If there is no snow at temperatures below -12-16°C, the plants partially freeze or die completely. Strong plants overwinter better, therefore, in well-groomed areas that have been provided with sufficient amounts of fertilizers, moisture, and protected from diseases and pests, frosts cause less damage. Due to the lack of snow, the plantings can be covered with straw (without seeds, since there may be a danger of mice appearing, which will cause significant damage to the plants).

Reproduction

Strawberries are propagated by seedlings (rosettes). Seedlings are either bought or grown on their own plantings, which are grown on the shoots (tendrils) of the mother bushes. The best rosettes are those that are located closer to the mother bush. No more than three rosettes are left on the shoot; you can leave up to 5 rosettes, but in this case the last two will be less developed than the first three. Up to 5 shoots are usually left on one mother bush, each with three rosettes. From one bush you get 15 pieces of well-developed rosettes.

As rosettes appear on the shoot, they are fixed in moist soil, i.e. small roots go deep into the soil. You can immediately plant the rosettes in small nutrient pots, while the pots are deepened into the soil.

It is impossible to grow rosettes and berries on mother bushes at the same time, so the first flower stalks that appear are removed. The best seedlings come from bushes in their second year of fruiting.

The best soils are slightly acidic, pH = 5-6; loamy and sandy loam containing humus and nutrients. Cold clay soils are not suitable without cultivation. On moist soils with close groundwater, strawberries should be grown in high beds. On sandy soils, strawberries, as a rule, produce a low yield with small berries, since there is always a lack of moisture and strawberry plants on these soils feel oppressed. Therefore, the bed for planting strawberries is cultivated 1-2 months before planting.

Diseases and pests

Gray rot

A very dangerous fungal disease. It mainly appears in cool, damp weather on old, unkempt sites. Begins to appear as brown soft spots, and then the berry simply rots.

Ways to fight: Damaged berries must be removed from the area, as wind or rain can spread spores throughout the area. You need to process the bed 2 times: the first - before the berries bloom, the second - after the last harvest is harvested. Treat with copper oxychloride at the rate of one tablespoon per 10 liters of water.

White, brown and brown spotting of strawberries

Spots appear in the summer - autumn period. With this disease, strawberry leaves turn brown and fall off.

Ways to fight: In case of severe damage, treat with copper oxychloride at the rate of one tablespoon per 10 liters of water. You need to process the bed 2 times: the first - before the berries bloom, the second - after the last harvest is harvested.

Powdery mildew

It affects all above-ground organs of strawberries, especially leaves. They become covered with plaque and begin to rot.

Ways to fight: In early spring, young and old leaves must be sprinkled with sulfaride (two tablespoons per 10 liters of water) before flowering. Repeated spraying is done in the fall. You can also treat it with potassium permanganate. Berries affected by this disease must be collected and burned.

Strawberry transparent mite

The most dangerous. The peculiarity of this pest is damage to young leaves, after which they curl and turn yellow. Bushes and berries become small. This pest reproduces best in damp weather.

Ways to fight: Most effective method- spraying with karbofos. You need to spray immediately after the last berry picking. Make a solution and water it from a watering can using sprinkling method throughout the entire bed. After watering, it is necessary to tightly cover the entire bed with film for 3 hours. Such control measures also help against strawberry beetles, weevils, whiteflies and other pests.

If the strawberry plants have been very badly damaged by the strawberry transparent mite, then all the plants must be mowed and done before August 10, so that the leaves have time to grow before winter.

Slugs, snails, centipedes:

These pests severely damage strawberries. They mainly choose gray, dark places as the best habitat.

Ways to fight: The best method for exterminating these pests is the drug metaldehyde. The preparation is laid out on the beds after picking the berries.
It is best to treat the area from all pests in the second half of September.

There are a lot of not only strawberry bushes, but also berries

Currently, there are so many varieties of strawberries that sometimes it seems impossible to choose something that would really satisfy all the components - such as quantity, quality, and fruiting time. There are many varieties, many hybrids. Moreover, hybrids of one fruiting year have now become widespread - they grow quickly, the next year’s harvest is amazing, but the next year... nothing. This is such a clever hybrid. But we are still used to planting strawberries for 3-4 years with gradual replacement, with mother beds. And the taste of the berries began to vary greatly. Many varieties have a hard core and a rather tough berry mass. True, they are stored and transported well, but is this necessary in your own garden, when aroma and taste are the main thing.

Strawberry, strawberry (Strawberry)

After going through many varieties, we settled on a few. This is our old one Victoria(pure variety) Gigantella Dutch selection and Cinderella. We plant each variety at different distances. Gigantella- large bush - 4 bushes per 1 sq. m, Victoria And Cinderella more often. We plant everything in the sunniest place, slightly inclined to the southwest.

As a protection against pests, we have recently been using an infusion of horse sorrel. We prepare the infusion usually and simply - chop up more sorrel, add water and leave for about 10 days. We spray the bushes with this infusion before and after fruiting.

Many amateur gardeners grow strawberries using a progressive method, using a special black film. It is usually sold in hardware stores. Other similar materials can be used.

Start growing berries effective technology follows from the moment they are planted. For example, strips are first cut from selected material meter width. Ten-centimeter holes are made in them twenty centimeters from the left or right edge and fifteen centimeters from each other. The strips, leaving a gap of one centimeter between them, are laid on the bed with a slope in the center. The gap is needed for feeding and watering the plants, and in order to better absorb moisture, a path of sand 5-8 centimeters wide should be poured along the entire length of the bed. Holes are made through the holes. Ash is poured into each of them and mixed with soil with abundant watering. Roots sink into this slurry planting material, which are covered with peat

>There are practically no weeds in the garden bed. If there is good rain once a month, then the plants do not need additional watering.

It is also important that the berries lying on the film do not rot, the plants are less affected by diseases and pests.
In order to get a harvest next year, plants should be planted in the first half of July.

Happy harvest!

*****Ways to grow strawberries

Photo No. 1. Garden strawberries drip irrigation method

Growing strawberries on the N.F.T. nutrient layer system.

In this type of installation, strawberries or wild strawberries receive nutrients from a nutrient solution constantly circulating through plastic boxes. The solution flows along the bottom of the box thin layer. The solution is supplied to the box through hoses or pipes using water pumps from the main tank with the finished nutrient solution. Plants are planted in cups, the bottom of which is slightly raised and does not touch the nutrient layer. As plants grow, the roots sink into the nutrient layer and receive all the nutrients enriched with oxygen from the liquid. Photo No. 3.

Photo No. 3. Garden strawberries on the N.F.T. nutrient layer system.

Now let's move on directly to the method of growing this wonderful berry.

First, let's decide why we will grow strawberries. If for yourself, then this can be done even on the balcony, the main condition is constant summer on your balcony, and light, it’s good if it’s on the sunny side, if not, you need to build lighting above the bags, preferably daylight.

If you want to grow strawberries for sale, you need to find a room, it should be bright and heated. Next we prepare plastic bags, it is better to make them yourself, they should be 15-16 cm in diameter and 1.5-2 meters high.

We pour soil mixed with peat and the simplest fertilizers into bags, making 8-10 cm cuts along the entire length of the bag in a checkerboard pattern, into which we plant the seedlings, as in a regular garden bed. We install a container for watering above the bags.

Conventional medical droppers are very suitable for this; we attach three to each bag; perhaps, if the bag is not high, two pipelines, on top and in the middle, then we regulate the moisture supply at the rate of 2 liters per day per bag.

The room should be very well lit; if there is little light, we hang a couple of long fluorescent light bulbs above the bags, which should burn for at least eight hours a day.

Many amateur gardeners grow strawberries in various containers, placing them and plants in several tiers. This method is called vertical culture.

The benefits are numerous:

1. areas are used that are unsuitable for traditional cultivation of plants (with infertile soils, high standing groundwater or flooded, along walls, fences, etc.);

2. conditions for caring for plants are improved (they only require sufficient lighting and moisture), harvesting;

3. water supply can be automated using special containers or a pipeline system with dosed irrigation;

4. since the bulk of the plants are located at a certain height, there is no need to bend low and often;

5. the damage to berries by gray rot is reduced as a result of better ventilation of plants and lack of contact with soil: the most optimal conditions for growing strawberries, which guarantees maximum yields;

6. It becomes possible to obtain off-season harvests using protected soil.

In addition, a certain decorative effect is created.

The proposed containers and structures (Fig. 1) for multi-tiered placement of strawberries can be made independently. They are also good for growing small-sized vegetable crops (radish, lettuce, kohlrabi) and flowers (viola, tulip). The root system of one plant should occupy at least 1500 cm3, the distance between plants should be 10-15 cm (the height of the container is about 10 cm). Types of designs of containers and vertical devices are divided into four groups - wall-mounted, pyramidal, column-shaped, cone-shaped.

Rice. 1 Types of vertical devices for growing plants: I - wall-mounted (a - flower pots, b - foam bags c metal mesh, c - rotating drawers, d - “pockets” made of polyethylene film); II - pyramidal (a - two-tier beds, b - inclined slides, d - multi-stage pyramids); III - columnar (a - pipe, 6 - bags, c - pots with “swallow nests”, d - cylinder, e - from slate sheets, f - rectangular box with nests, g - disks, h - car tires); IV - cone-shaped (a - double-sided boxes, b - single-sided boxes, c - cylinders, d - shaped conical container, e - collection cassette)

How to prepare a substrate for growing vertical strawberry crops. The substrate for these purposes is recommended to be composed of the following components: peat - 60%, turf soil - 30%, sand - 10% (or peat + turf soil + humus in equal parts; peat mixed with sawdust or perlite in a ratio of 1:2). When using sawdust, additional nitrogen must be added to the substrate (for example, ammonium sulfate at the rate of 300-350 g per 10 kg).

If only peat is used, then it must be enriched with mineral fertilizers: ammonium nitrate - 1500 g per 1 m3, superphosphate - 2000, potassium sulfate - 860 or potassium magnesium - 1500 g per 1 m3.

To increase the pH of the substrate (peat) to the required value (5.0-5.5), you need to add lime (1 kg per 1 m3) for every 0.5 unit of acidity. Microelements are also embedded in peat (g per 1 m3): iron sulfate - 60, boric acid - 15, copper sulfate - 20, manganese sulfate - 6, zinc sulfate - 2, ammonium molybdate - 4.

Features of care when growing vertical strawberry crops. It is necessary to periodically remove the tendrils, water and feed the plants. It is better to water with warm (not lower than 15-18°C) water in the usual way (hose, watering can, etc.) or using special droppers, hygroscopic tourniquets, etc. The number of waterings depends on the substrate and weather. On average, plants grown in peat should be watered at least two to three times a week. The average daily water consumption is 80-100g per plant. With continuous (during daylight) watering, its intensity should be one drop per second. Watering can be combined with fertilizing with solutions of macro- and microfertilizers.

How to store containers of strawberries in winter. In winter, without special protection, plants in containers can freeze. To prevent this from happening, before frost, the container must be removed from the vertical cassette, placed on the ground and covered with insulating material - fallen leaves, sawdust, peat, film, etc. The temperature of the air and plants should not fall below minus 6 - minus 8 ° C. When frost intensifies, the insulation layer should be increased and natural protective material - snow - should be used. On the balcony, containers should be placed against the wall of the house and, when the air temperature drops to minus 6°C, covered with film and sheets of foam plastic (the latter folded in the form of a box).

Growing strawberries indoors. An off-season harvest of strawberries can be obtained by growing them in containers at home (on windowsills or special stands). The growing season should begin in mid-February, since by this time the plants have completely gone through the dormant period (at a temperature not higher than +5°C), and favorable lighting conditions are created. Fruiting of strawberries should be expected within 3-3.5 months from the beginning of active growth

Have a good harvest.

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Raspberry plant without damage!

Probably, many gardeners are familiar with this situation: the raspberry tree overwintered well, woke up in the spring, bloomed wildly, promising a bountiful harvest, and when it’s time to pick the berries, individual shoots suddenly begin to dry out, without having time to yield the harvest. The reason is that the plants are affected by stem gall midge.
This pest, at the mosquito stage, pierces tender replacement shoots and lays eggs inside. The development of larvae and the formation of galls occurs continuously from spring until the end of the growing season, which is why not all galls are visible, and late clutches appear only next spring. If you fight the pest in a formulaic manner, spraying within the time limits specified in the literature, then there will be little use. After all, the weather is slightly different every year, so pests do not reproduce at the same time, but depending on the conditions. If you are just a few days late with spraying, the raspberry tree is already infected.
I solved this problem for a long time and created my own protection system, which provides a 90-95% guarantee. Let me make a reservation right away: this article is for true gardeners who live in regions with a climate similar to the climate of my place and are not afraid of the hassle. It will take at least two years to see results: the first year to eradicate the pest, the second to prevent it.
According to my observations, galls appear primarily from below, on growing replacement shoots and young shoots, during the period of the beginning of flowering and fruiting. I spray the first on dormant buds with Preparation 30. The second - before flowering, when the new growth reaches a height of 20-30 cm - with Fufanon, and I try to meet the deadlines according to the lunar calendar. I spray only the bottom of the bushes, but the shoots and replacement shoots grow unevenly, so I carry out a third spraying with Kinmiks after 2-3 weeks, again checking with lunar calendar.
After harvesting, I cut out all the old shoots as quickly as possible. Before the onset of autumn, I spray several more times, alternating the preparations.
In Kuban, the growing season ends very late, sometimes in mid-November. And I gradually switched to another scheme - it is even more reliable. Until the end of the harvest I do everything as described, and then differently. I cut off not only all the old shoots, but also the remaining replacement shoots, leaving only 3-4 replacement shoots with 3-4 internodes. I remove the tops because they are most often infected with the pest.
By this time, the lower buds have matured and, after removing the upper part of the shoots, they wake up and begin to grow. All that remains is to intensively care for the raspberries - watering, loosening, fertilizing, both root and leaf, and spraying against pests (usually 3-4 times, checking the lunar calendar). And to make it more convenient to care for, I pull a wire from below at a height of 50-60 cm. By winter, the raspberry tree is completely restored, it is free from diseases and pests. To avoid undergrowth, I allow only 2-3 side shoots to grow on each stump, and blind the remaining buds. I carry out the final normalization of the raspberries in the spring: winter will show what needs to be cut out. I leave 4-6 shoots per 1 linear meter, no more, the rest, no matter how pitiful it may be, I cut out so that thickening does not occur.
I’ll touch on one more point, which, in my opinion, greatly influences winter hardiness. The cuts must be covered with garden varnish or oil paint, or very well with red lead. After all, through wounds comes drying. Therefore, it is advisable to cut off the tops not in the fall, but in the spring, during the final normalization of the raspberries. Troublesome, yes. But the harvest will always delight you!
YU.MININ