Trimming fruit trees - a complex event that takes place in the garden in November. Sometimes it is very difficult to understand, especially for a beginner, how to prune fruit trees correctly and when to prune.

Let's consider in detail: how to properly prune fruit trees for beginners, where to start, when and how to prune trees, step by step description with photos and videos.

At the end of October - beginning of November, all work in the garden should already be completed: perennial flowers and shrubs should be pruned and covered for the winter, the water should be turned off, the equipment should be put away for storage - you can calmly wait for the next season.

But this is not so, because autumn is the time for pruning fruit trees and shrubs, and is usually carried out before the first night frosts, when the foliage begins to turn yellow.

Firstly, the growing season is over, and pruning will not provoke the growth of new shoots; juice will not leak through the wounds, since sap flow has ended. Compared to winter pruning of trees, the wounds left from autumn pruning will not freeze, and the bark will not peel off at the cut sites.

Properly pruned trees After winter they begin to bear fruit very well. In the spring, you simply may not have time to prune before the sap begins to flow; it happens that spring comes quickly.

Attention: pruning of fruit trees in autumn (late October - November) is carried out in regions with moderate climatic conditions. It is not recommended to do this in the northern regions; the plants will not have time to recover before the onset of cold weather, and the bark at the cut site may freeze. From such damage, the bark dries out and cracks, which leads to the death of plants.
In the northern regions, it is better to prune trees and shrubs in September - early October.

Tree pruning– it’s not a simple matter, it has many nuances. Let's consider simple recommendations tree pruning that anyone can handle.

Pruning is necessary to form a balanced, beautiful tree, each branch of which will have the strength to bear fruit.

Crown thinning is a creation the best conditions for the formation of not only fruits, but the largest, healthiest and most beautiful ones.

Sanitary pruning – preventative measure aimed at promoting good plant health. By systematically pruning, you give your tree the opportunity to become long-lived.

In the pruning in the pictures, everything seems to be clear, but when you approach the tree, you are simply lost in the sight of a huge number of branches sticking out in all directions in front of you.

For pruning we need the following tools: a hacksaw, regular and long-handled pruning shears, a sharp garden knife, oil paint - if pruning in the fall, and garden varnish - if pruning in the spring.

Attention: Make any cuts strictly to the ring; the health and even life of the tree depends on this.

If you cut a branch with a hole– the layers of the trunk through which the juice flows are damaged. If you leave the stump, the bark will peel off and the wood will begin to rot. Over time, such a cut will turn into a hollow with a bunch of diseases that can spread to the entire tree.

Proper pruning It is carried out in an annular flow; it promotes rapid healing of the wound and healthy bark around the cut. Only the part of the cut branch located near the trunk is scarred.

Slice definitely needs to be processed oil paint- in the autumn. This treatment is carried out annually.

Large branches are cut in 3 stages.

They start sawing a thick branch from below, making an undercut, otherwise under own weight the branch may break and the bark will tear.
Then the branch is cut down above the bottom cut.

And the final stage, when the branch is removed and nothing is in the way, a leveling cut is made onto the ring. With a sharp knife clean out all the uneven surfaces and paint.

After autumn pruning of young seedlings, it is recommended to water them immediately after completion of the procedure. You can also fertilize with mineral fertilizers, which will help young plant cope better with stress.

Correct tree crown shaping it is necessary to start from the moment the seedling is planted. The very first thing to do is to form the correct standard (the lower branches must grow at a certain height from the ground). All branches and buds at a height from the ground to 40 cm are removed.

If on young seedling If there are no branches yet, it is recommended to trim the crown; in the spring, young branches will begin to grow from all the buds, from which you will need to choose the strongest ones.

Video – Master class on pruning fruit trees

At this stage of pruning, the crown of the tree is formed. Basic Rule– skeletal branches should diverge in different directions and form a large angle with the trunk.

The more horizontal the branch is, the better it bears fruit and holds the weight of the fruit. Vertical branches bear fruit poorly and often break.

Trim off all unnecessary and weak branches, leaving 3-4 skeletal. If another tier of branches is formed on the tree, then we do the same.

Now let's take care of getting a quick harvest, for this we need shorten long branches on the kidney. The weaker the branch, the shorter we cut it, so we will cause stronger growth on next year.

If the frame branches grow incorrectly, they should not be pruned, otherwise you will not get a harvest. It is better to stretch them, giving them the desired direction of growth.

ATTENTION! This is an archived page, current now:

Gardener's lunar calendar 2017 - Garden.
Spring pruning and vaccinations.

The table of the lunar calendar given on this page is a thematic selection from the universal , for work with fruit trees and shrubs (work with garden strawberries- in the thematic calendar "Vegetable Garden")

March is the awakening of the garden.

In March, working in the garden is much more pleasant than in February - it is no longer so cold, the sun is noticeably warming up and it smells like spring. At this time, it is important to trap the snow at the roots of the trees. To do this, sawdust is placed on the snow. Start with formative pruning of trees and shrubs. Spring vaccinations are carried out.

ATTENTION! Our gardener's lunar calendar is kept by Moscow time. (The calendar can be used throughout Russia, taking into account the difference between Moscow and local time *)

Planting a garden is only the first step towards reaping a harvest. In order for it to bear fruit well and not get sick, fruit trees need to be pruned. They do it in spring and autumn. Let's talk about spring.

ABOUT By cutting a plant, you injure it. Therefore, it is very important to choose the type and quality of the tool that you use. It depends on them whether the tree will recover quickly.

You will need:

• garden knife;
• hacksaw.

It is recommended to trim the branches with a knife. Secateurs are easier, but they cause more damage: they compress the wood strongly, and then the wound takes longer to heal. In order for the garden to recover faster, the cut must be even. This can only be achieved with a garden knife.

Amateur gardeners often have a question: when to prune fruit trees in the spring, is it possible after the sap begins to flow? It all depends on the condition of your garden. Did the trunk split, did the branches break under the weight of the snow? Of course, pruning is inevitable. When there is nothing like this, then there is no point in injuring the trees. After all, pruning is not an end in itself. If you form trees according to the rules, you will only need a minimal corrective operation, which you can do without.

Fruit tree pruning – important factor for a healthy and fruitful garden. And you need to do it skillfully. First of all, shoots should be removed:

• which extend from the trunk under acute angle;
• directed to the center of the crown;
• which do not bear fruit (wolfberry).

There are several rules that professional gardeners always adhere to:

1. Pruning should begin as soon as the severe frosts have subsided (most often this is the end of January, beginning of March). This way, the wounds will not freeze, and when sap flow begins, they will heal quickly. The cuts should be even and smooth. They need to be lubricated with garden varnish.
2. You need to trim the shoots above the eyes, which grow outward from the crown. The cut is made from the inside out.
3. Branches that are a continuation of the trunk should be longer than the others.
4. On weak trees, short pruning is done. Trim above the second or third eyes.
5. With strong growth, medium pruning is done. The branches are cut above the fifth eye.
6. For vigorous trees, long pruning is carried out, leaving eight or more eyes.

Crown formation

Form a crown young tree You can start in the second year of his life and continue for several years. Fruits on apple and pear trees appear on perennial shoots, and plums and cherries bear fruit the very next year after planting. Knowing this, spring pruning of fruit trees can be done without much damage to the future harvest. Non-tiered and sparsely-tiered crown formation systems are common. The latter is ideal for cherries, plums, and cherry plums. The basis of such a crown is a trunk and up to a dozen side branches that grow from the trunk in tiers at a distance of up to twenty centimeters from each other.

So, how to properly prune fruit trees in the spring and form a crown? Proceed as follows:

1. The conductor is the central shoot; cut it at approximately 80 cm from the base. The main thing: there should be up to a dozen buds left on the guide. New shoots and side branches will come out of them. This is the first tier.
2. Next year, remove branches damaged over the winter, select three or four strong ones. Delete the rest. This is the second tier.
3. Therefore, according to the same principle, form the third tier already in the fourth year.
4. The tree has reached a height of four meters (short fruit trees - maximum), remove the conductor above the upper branch. Thus, stop the growth and completely form the crown of the tree.

Trees need to be pruned regularly: once a year or in spring and autumn. At any time, as necessary, sanitary or corrective pruning is performed.

When pruning fruit trees in spring, the timing is late winter or early spring. This is especially important for apricots, cherries, peaches, and cherry plums. In the summer, pruning is done only to remove tops, branches that contribute to unnecessary density of the crown.

Description: a - shortening of shoots in the first year; b, c - formative pruning of crown shoots along a given contour; d - sanitary pruning (removal of dry branches); d - pruning and thinning in order to improve aeration (before and after); e - rejuvenation of old trees.

Pruning mature fruit trees

Your garden is already bearing fruit. But it, like young trees, requires care and removal of dried or diseased branches. How to properly prune fruit trees in spring?

The thickened crown of a fruit tree needs to be thinned out. After five years, the conductor is removed. This will limit upward growth. Remove the branch completely or partially. Partial removal promote the growth of the branch that is located nearby. It is also necessary to cut off diseased, dried branches - the illumination of the crown improves, the fruits are distributed evenly.

Pruning is best done when the tree is dormant, before sap flow begins.

If the crown is pyramidal (pear - branches grow upward), the growing branches need to be lowered down: those that are directed downward are left, and those that are directed upward are cut off. In other fruit trees, the branches are directed downwards - they need to be lifted: remove the ones pointing downwards.

To rejuvenate a tree, you will need to cut top part trunk and thin out the crown. To do this, you should remove the old branches going inside the crowns that are intertwined. A very dense crown should not be thinned out overnight, so as not to seriously injure the plant; spread out the operation over two to three years.

Schemes for pruning pear, cherry, apple trees

Pruning fruit trees in spring: scheme for pears:

1. In winter, the branches freeze and tops appear. They are completely removed or trimmed.
2. If you prune too much, it will weaken the tree and the fruit will appear much later than expected. It is better to do moderate pruning.
3. It is useful to slightly shorten annual branches. This will only strengthen them.

For cherries, sweet cherries:

1. Five to seven strong branches are left in young trees, “looking” in different directions. The distance between them is up to 10 centimeters.
2. All weak branches are removed.
3. The conductor should be 20 centimeters longer than the others.
4. Cherries are pruned only in the spring.

For apple trees:

1. Before you start pruning, you need to clear the trunk and main branches of shoots.
2. Removing a third of the branches and shoots will rejuvenate the old plant and increase productivity - the main thing is not to overdo it.
3. Pruning needs to be done over several years.

When working in your garden, consider the experience of other gardeners and do not forget:

1. When removing branches, do not leave stumps, cut close to the trunk.
2. A correctly made cut leaves a trace of a neatly overgrown “ring”.
3. When removing thick branches, first make a cut from the bottom and then from the top. This way, the bark will remain intact if the branch falls.
4. If the shoot was removed incorrectly, there is damage - clean it, treat the cut with varnish.
5. It is better to wait until next spring to trim frozen trees.
6. You cannot fill hollows or drill drainage holes.
7. If there is a danger of branches breaking under the weight of the fruit, do not place supports. It is better to partially pick off the fruits. Otherwise, the plant will get used to it and will not be able to hold the branches on its own.

You will learn how to properly prune a plant without damaging it by watching the video at the end of the article.

1. When pruning, the pruning shears should be held with the narrow part towards the branch.
2. If you want to form a lush crown of a young tree, shorten the conductor by ¼.
3. There should be only one conductor. If there are competitors, eliminate them.

A year after planting the plant, shorten its trunk by 20 centimeters and its branches to 7 centimeters. Please note: the branches at the bottom should be longer.

Spring pruning of fruit trees video

Tree pruning in spring - important stage gardening work. An experienced gardener works on his plot for years to get a harvest. In the spring, branches are pruned, which allows you to get decent bonuses in the fall. How to do this correctly, what calendar dates to rely on? We'll talk about key points cuttings, we will help you choose tools and understand astronomical details.

There are two types of pruning for shrubs, as well as apple trees and other fruit trees. You should think about choosing a technology back in February. The first type is shortening, the second is cutting off perennial branches. Shortening is used in interaction with annual growths, since young growth can lead to serious problems in future. The side shoots and central growth (leader) should be reduced by a third. This will inevitably be followed by lateral branching, which will form a regular crown.

A perennial garden (minimum five annual cycles) needs more than thorough approach. The center conductor is cut off completely, which limits the height of the tree. You should also get rid of touching, dry and diseased branches. The illumination inside the crown will increase - this is why spring pruning of fruit trees is needed. Your pears and apples will be evenly distributed over the crown area.

Pros and cons of pruning trees in spring

Why are branches pruned at all? fruit plants? Experienced gardeners highlight a number of advantages of this procedure. These are the advantages:

1. Comfortable weather conditions.
2. A wide range of types of pruning (anti-aging, sanitary, thinning and crown-forming).
3. Removing diseased and damaged shoots.
4. Preparing trees for fruiting.

There is only one minus - if you performed the operation in the spring, you risk encountering unpredictable frosts. Night cold can cause some damage to plants. This factor must be taken into account.

When is the best time to prune trees?

What time of year is optimal for similar works? Someone is focusing on lunar phases, but we recommend taking as a basis climatic features your region. As soon as a long period of warmth has established, get down to business. Remember that the return of frost is the main threat. Therefore, deadlines are a relative concept.

The second determining factor is sap flow. Shortening and thinning must be completed before this begins. physiological process. Here are a few more important points:

• if you ignore the fruit tree pruning calendar, you risk damaging the buds;
• large farms begin active operations already in February-March;
• the weather should not be cold and damp;
• actions during the frost period lead to a slowdown in growth.

Lunar calendar of favorable days for pruning trees in spring

The climate calendar is very wary of early works by circumcision. If the night temperature exceeds -5°C, the procedure should be postponed. Grapevine It is generally not recommended to disturb. The lunar calendar makes its own adjustments to the schedule. Let's look at the situation month by month.

Tree pruning in March

In March, according to astrologers, a good half of the days are not suitable for crown formation. In the first ten days, do not take pruning shears on March 2, 5-7 and 10. In the middle of the month (13-17.03) also rest. After the twentieth, the situation normalizes - only the 24th-25th are considered unfavorable.

Tree pruning in April

At the very beginning of April (2-3), as well as 9-13.04, it is not recommended to touch trees. Last decade excludes 20-21 and 29-30. On the remaining days, feel free to carry out the planned set of events.

Tree pruning in May

Almost the entire month is suitable for preventive and formative work. In the initial phase of the moon's growth, branches cannot be cut, but there is only one such day - May 5th. The remaining dates are suitable for the task you have set. May 22 is ideal for pruning trees in spring.

Necessary tool

There are several rules that are mandatory for all gardeners. The main rule is thoughtful selection of tools. You will have to work with shoots and crown. Arm yourself with the following devices:

• Secateurs (air and standard). Air pruners are equipped with telescopic handles, which allows you to process the upper areas of the crown. Ideally, both blades should be movable. If you purchased pruning shears with a fixed lower blade, be prepared for injury and crushing of branches.
• Chainsaw. You will need this radical remedy when processing old plantings.
• Saw. A simple hacksaw that visually resembles a saber will do. You don't need a construction saw - this tool has a different purpose.
• Ladder. If the trees in your garden are tall, it is better to use a portable ladder. You will have to walk a lot, so give preference to lightweight designs.
• Garden knives. You will need them to correct cuts.

Make sure your arsenal is sharp and clean, and there should be no rust on the blades. Disinfection won’t hurt either – they are used for this purpose. copper sulfate and alcohol-containing solutions. Please note that spring pruning of fruit trees is accompanied by careful care - you injure the plants. Treat the cuts with garden varnish, which has antiseptic and healing properties. You can replace the varnish with oil paint or clay mash.

How to prune trees correctly

It's time to figure out how to properly organize the formation of a tree crown. There are three known methods: bud, ring and side branches. In the first case, the branches are directed to the sides, and the cuts should be oblique. Ring technology involves complete pruning; the main tool is a garden pruner. You need to remove shoots oriented inside the crown and upward. With lateral branching, the skeletal branch is shortened. This is true for old plantings, where good growth is required. Here are some basic tips:

1. When working with young shoots, make cuts above the eyes.
2. The middle branches should be long.
3. When forming the crown of low-growing varieties, choose short pruning (above the second or third eyes).
4. Don’t overdo it with last year’s shoots (it all depends on your goals).
5. Long pruning (7-8 eyes) should be applied to vigorous trees.
6. There is also a medium pruning (fifth eye), it is used when you want to get rapid growth.

It is important to understand that the fruit tree pruning calendar was invented for a reason. The ideal crown should be healthy and branched (without dry branches). Make sure you achieve symmetry. There should be a vertical shoot that continues the trunk, and 3-5 lateral branches. The plum and apple trees should be spherical, the pear should be pyramidal.

Care after pruning

Clipped crops require proper care, otherwise you will face diseases and stunted growth. Treat the cuts with Lac Balsam or garden varnish. Lac Balsam is an artificial bark that accelerates cambium generation.

In place of the “extra” shoots, shoots will begin to actively grow - they should be promptly removed. If you fertilize the plant well, it will recover faster. Use phosphorus, potassium chloride and wood ash for this. Proper pruning and subsequent care will significantly increase productivity.

Prevention

There are nuances in preventive work. After pruning the trees in the spring, wait until the damaged tissue has completely dried. It is strictly forbidden to treat wet saw cuts with varnish or other preparations. Jagged edges you need to trim, otherwise you will not achieve the desired result. For this you will need a garden knife. Get rid of sawdust and apply the varnish carefully, being careful not to damage the cambium.

Summarize. Pruning is a necessary procedure; it helps to normalize the growth of the fruit tree and increase productivity. But you need to act wisely, taking into account calendar and technological details. Special attention focus on restoring damaged trees.

It is very good to prune trees: with a debilitated Moon a few days before the new moon (if you are dealing with fruit trees, then try to choose the days of Fruits). Good: with a debilitated Moon. Bad: during the young moon.

Lunar rules for cutting tree branches:

It is very good to prune trees: with a debilitated Moon, a few days before the new moon (if you are dealing with fruit trees, then try to choose Fruit days).

Good: with a debilitated Moon.

Bad: during the young moon.

Additional tips: Branches should be trimmed before side branches that begin to grow or branch quickly. This rule applies to any plants that do not want to grow correctly, we can also talk about ornamental plants and about flowers. If you tear off their edges on a new moon, the result will be stunning. If you use these simple rules, then how many trees in our forests can be saved. When it comes to flowers, bushes and fruit trees, it’s not just the tips that need to be trimmed. We trimmed a lot of branches on fruit trees during the new moon. Surely next year they will bloom well and produce a large harvest. Is it possible to stop the extinction of forests by pruning their branches during the new moon? We are not sure about this because the root cause of this disaster is not going away. But the result will be impressive, that’s for sure, because all the diseased trees that we treated in this way are now absolutely healthy.

We'll look at how to prune trees correctly in our article. Pruning is necessary and very effective technique development impact garden crops, which both fruit and berry plants need. Almost no one vital function plant organisms that do not experience its noticeable consequences in the near or more distant future. Since pruning is a potent agrotechnical techniques, it must be carried out with a clearly and predetermined purpose. By pruning, you can specifically influence the shape and size of the plant, the conditions of its development, the timing of fruiting and its regularity, yield, productivity period, and the quality of fruits and berries. For example, in the first years after planting, it is necessary to create a strong skeleton of a fruit tree or bush that can reliably withstand a harvest; subsequently, it provides the most favorable conditions distribution of illumination or nutrition of both the internal parts of the crown and the plant as a whole.

When starting pruning, the gardener must remember that its influence on the fruit or berry crop is diverse. It depends on the method, degree and timing of pruning, breed and varietal characteristics, age and condition of the plant, soil and climatic conditions of the area and, of course, on the correctness of the relevant operations. There are two main methods of pruning: shortening, when the length of shoots and branches is reduced, and thinning, when they are removed entirely. Pruning branches The first method is used primarily to change the location of crown elements. If the shoot and branch want to be directed away from the center of the crown, they are shortened to the outer bud or outer lateral branch (Fig. II-28). When it is desirable to give a shoot or branch more vertical position, shortening leads to an internal bud or lateral branch on the upper side of the branch. Shortening is also resorted to when any branch needs to be put into a subordinate state or to prevent the formation of a fork. The more they want to weaken a branch, the more it is shortened in comparison with the one to which, so to speak, development priority is given. The second method - thinning - is used when, with age, the number of branches of a tree or bush increases, reaching excessive density. In this case, the branches are removed entirely, leaving no stumps. But such a measure alone does not improve the growth of the end parts of unpruned branches. Under the load of the harvest, such branches bend downward. Closer to the base, a strongly growing side branch appears. This phenomenon is called retreating growth. Such a branch needs to be shortened - removing its end part to an actively developing side branch. Therefore, when cutting a bush, thinning is usually combined with shortening. It should be remembered that pruning has a local effect, that is, it affects only those branches that are subject to this operation. The strength of growth of side shoots depends on their location on the branch, as well as on its location relative to the soil surface. The more horizontal the branch, the more evenly the lateral shoots are distributed along it and the more uniform they are in terms of growth strength; and vice versa, the closer the branch is to the vertical, the fewer and stronger the lateral shoots. It is also possible that shoots appear from one upper or two lateral buds that are not inferior in growth strength to the shoot from the apical bud. They, as a rule, come off at an acute angle and not only thicken the crown, but in the future they can break off under the weight of the crop, causing serious damage to the fruit tree. Such shoots, called competitors, must be removed. U fruit crops with a clearly defined trunk, the skeletal branches are arranged in tiers, and within the tier they are very similar in structure. This greatly simplifies their pruning and makes it typical for branches of the same tier.

It is customary to distinguish the following types tree trimmings:

Post-planting tree pruning

Formative tree pruning

Pruning trees for fruiting

Rejuvenating tree pruning

Sanitary tree pruning

Restorative tree pruning

Spring tree pruning

Autumn tree pruning

POST-PLANTING TREE Pruning

This pruning of trees is carried out regardless of the time of planting, but always before the buds open. The purpose of this type of tree pruning is to create a strong crown that can withstand the weight of the crop, and the above-ground part must be brought into line with the root system to obtain high yields.

FORMATING TREE Pruning

Formative tree pruning provides good lighting crown, supports the growth process, prevents exposure of branches. For ornamental trees, this type of tree pruning is necessary, since it is what gives them a beautiful and aesthetic shape.

Pruning trees for fruiting

The purpose of this type of tree pruning is to ensure annual high yield. Old dying branches must be replaced with new ones, and conditions must be created for constant renewal of the wood.

REJUVENATING TREE Pruning

The main task of this type of tree pruning is to prevent weakening of tree growth and to renew the crown of old trees. To do this, old weakened branches are removed, making room for the development of young growths. The thinned out crown of the tree receives large quantity Sveta.

SANITARY TREE Pruning

Sanitary tree pruning is mandatory every spring. Its main purpose is to remove dry dead branches damaged by disease and insects. This pruning of trees is necessary not only from an aesthetic point of view, but also as a preventive measure against pests and diseases, since it is the infected branches that are the sources of the spread of infection.

RESTORATIONAL TREE Pruning

Restorative pruning of trees is used if trees, young or old, have become very thick, overloaded with fruit-bearing branches, have exceeded the permissible dimensions and have violated the shape of the crown. The purpose of this tree pruning is to return to the original dimensions, providing the most optimal development tree. Restorative tree pruning is also applied to trees that have received severe mechanical damage, or to heavily frozen trees.

SPRING TREE Pruning

Conducted every spring in order to stimulate growth and crown formation, as a result of which trees produce new shoots and increase their immunity to various diseases. Simultaneously with the spring pruning of trees, the trunk is also put in order - dead particles of bark are removed from it, lubricated weak solution lime Whitewashing protects the tree from sunburn, since tree trunks are very vulnerable after winter.

AUTUMN TREE Pruning

As a result of autumn pruning, trees prepare for the coming cold weather. Properly carried out autumn pruning helps trees meet the winter healthy and strong. And it can withstand frost well. Autumn pruning of trees is carried out from the end of August until the first frost.

Tree pruning according to lunar calendar - tree pruning calendar:

• It is very good to prune trees: with a debilitated Moon, a few days before the new moon (if you are dealing with fruit trees, then try to choose Fruit days).
• Good: with a debilitated Moon.
• Bad: during the young moon.
• Very bad: during a young moon a few days before the full moon.
• Additional tips: Branches should be trimmed before side branches that begin to grow or branch quickly. This rule applies to any plants that do not want to grow correctly, we can also talk about ornamental plants and flowers. If you tear off their edges on a new moon, the result will be stunning.

How to trim trees - types of pruning

Young trees are pruned to form a crown. Here the main goal is to create its skeleton in accordance with the selected model. Place overgrowing branches evenly on the main branches. Do not delay the transition of the plant to fruiting.

In the future, as long as the growth is quite strong (the length of the shoots of the extension of the main branches is at least 30-40 cm), and fruiting in terms of quantity and quality of fruits is quite satisfactory, the main goal of pruning is to maintain the established optimal balance between growth and fruiting. Do not allow branches to extend beyond the established crown dimensions. Avoid overloading with overgrown branches. Prevent weakening of growth. Maintain good lighting throughout the entire depth of the crown.

When the length of the growths of the continuation branches becomes less than 15-10 cm or, due to an oversight, their growth stops altogether, rejuvenating pruning will be required. Its goal is to prevent weakening of growth, and if this has already happened, then to stimulate growth so that the length of the shoots becomes at least 30-40 cm. If the crowns, no matter of young or rather old trees, have gone beyond the optimal dimensions, become very thick, or are overloaded with fruiting branches (by the way, if there are a lot of such branches, most of them are weak and unable to bear fruit normally), restorative pruning is used. The purpose of such pruning is to bring the dimensions of the crowns to optimal sizes, improve the light regime, normalize the number of branches, ensure a balance between growth and fruiting. Restorative pruning is also applied to frozen trees and to trees that have received serious mechanical damage.

Pruning ornamental shrubs

Trimming ornamental shrubs preserves their natural growth form and stimulates flowering. Depending on the type of plant and its purpose in the garden, the timing of pruning and methods of doing it vary.

Timing for pruning shrubs

Garden roses or topiary bushes, such as boxwood (Buxus), grown with a pyramidal crown, should be pruned annually. Every year, and sometimes several times a year, hedges are subjected to this procedure. Most ornamental shrubs, as well as free-growing hedges, on the contrary, are pruned once every few years, and the time intervals between pruning depend on the planting location in the garden and the growth rate of a particular plant. Pruning woody plants produced in autumn or early spring.

The exception is the species blooming in spring, for example forsythia (Forsythia). In this case, trees or shrubs are pruned immediately after flowering. It is best to trim evergreen shrub hedges after the first wave of growth has completed, that is, from about the end of July to the end of August. At the same time, hedges made of deciduous trees are trimmed, since by this time the birds no longer nest in their branches and do not raise their offspring there. Shrub pruning technique Pruning is a major intervention in the natural growth of a plant, often associated with injury if done inappropriately, and a rather complicated procedure. Some special pruning techniques used experienced gardeners, without special training it is unlikely to be reproduced. However, to begin with, knowledge of the basic rules, and above all the technique of making cuts, will be quite enough. An oblique cut is made 0.5-1 cm above the kidney. The cut should not be directed towards the kidney. To prevent the formation of dry knots, the cut should not be too far from the bud. If you cut the shoot very close to the bud, it will dry out.

When pruning ornamental shrubs, you should adhere to simple principle: The crown should receive more light by removing old, broken branches. Following this principle, once every 2-3 years for most ornamental shrubs, including those planted as free-growing hedges, it is necessary to thin out the crowns, cutting them entirely to the soil surface or at least to the branches closest to the soil surface, all growing close to each other, crossing or very old branches.

With this kind of cutting inner part the crown will be better illuminated, new shoots will begin to grow from the root collar, which will soon bloom magnificently again - without this, the natural form of growth of the shrub will be disrupted. Very long branches, sometimes spoiling the appearance of the plant, can be shortened a little without any hesitation, and the cut should be made above resting bud facing outward.

Please note: if you constantly trim all the branches without taking into account the natural nature of growth to a certain height, then very soon a crown will be formed that is completely impenetrable to light, with dense foliage only on top; The quality of flowering will also noticeably deteriorate. Shrubs trimmed in this way lose their beauty. I would like to add that there are shrubs that require a special approach to pruning.

Some species, such as Buddleja davidii hybrids, Spiraea bumalda hybrids or garden roses, bloom mainly at the ends of young shoots. To stimulate education large quantity buds formed at the tips of young shoots, it is necessary to annually prune all branches without exception, by forcefully (by about half). This pruning is carried out only in the spring, along with the removal of shoots that have frozen in winter. Other species, such as forsythia (Forsythia), mock orange (Philadelphus), barberry (Berberis), deutzia (Deutzia) and bush roses, tend to produce so-called drooping shoots.

Old branches gradually bend at the tops, outside of these drooping shoots, in the area of ​​greatest bending, the strongest lateral branches develop. Many flowers form on the side shoots, so the old branches are not removed, but only shortened to strong, upward-growing lateral (skeletal) branches. Drooping branches are cut out entirely when they have exhausted their ability to form flowering shoots. U dwarf shrubs all shoots are shortened annually by about one third. At the same time, in order to preserve the natural growth form of the bush, not only the upward growing shoots are pruned, but also the side shoots.

Hedges should not lose leaves from below due to the upper crown being too thick, so pruning is done in such a way that Bottom part was also well lit. To do this, the top of the hedge is made narrower than its base, that is, in cross section hedge has the shape of a trapezoid. If the hedge consists of woody plants with one main trunk, they are pruned from above only when they reach their maximum size.

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