Fruiting of honeysuckle after planting. How to propagate honeysuckle? Growing, care. Siberian and Ural varieties

Over the past decades, honeysuckle has literally burst into Russian gardens! From a once rare crop, honeysuckle has now become one of the main berry bushes in our gardens.

Among garden crops the season of ripening of fresh fruits opens with honeysuckle, which is gaining immense popularity not only among gardeners, but also among industrial producers. Depending on spring conditions, honeysuckle ripens 7-10 days earlier compared to the most early varieties strawberries

Honeysuckle is valued for its rich bio chemical composition fruits, which includes vitamin A - which helps improve the immune system, C - which prevents fatigue, and iron - which helps in the fight against anemia. Eating honeysuckle fruits helps treat hypertension, malaria, liver and heart diseases.

Honeysuckle, with tasty and healthy fruits that produce large harvests, is the pride of Russian scientists and the hope of our gardeners. In the selection of honeysuckle, Russia is significantly ahead of other countries, having serious successes and advantages. After all, our climate is perfectly suitable for growing this wonderful berry crop. And in a milder climate, it is difficult to obtain large harvests of honeysuckle.

Honeysuckle is a relatively young garden crop, so it is less affected by sources of diseases and pests. IN last years began to be affected by aphids and the fungal leaf disease ascochyta, when brown spots appear on the leaves. Considering that the bushes do not tolerate pesticides during the growing season, it is possible to treat against the spores of the ascochyta fungus with copper-containing preparations, including Bordeaux mixture, before the fruit buds bloom on the plant. You can't do it later. Against aphids, you can use infusions and decoctions of herbs, for example, celandine, etc., and before the leaves bloom, use the drug Afidin - a mineral-oily emulsion. Then, before flowering, repeat the treatment at intervals of seven days. Of course, it is necessary to fight small black ants that carry aphids.

Honeysuckle is one of the crops that is highly adaptive to unfavorable climatic conditions. Its natural habitat is Siberia and the Far East, therefore, in the conditions of the central part of Russia, this crop is characterized by high winter hardiness. Its winter hardiness is truly unique. In places natural growth Honeysuckle bushes tolerate frosts of -50 degrees and below without noticeable damage. Blooming buds and flowers are not damaged by returning frosts. However, a threat is posed by a long, warm autumn, during which secondary flowering of plants is often observed, leading to loss of next year’s harvest.

Due to the fact that the main part of the honeysuckle harvest is concentrated on annual growths, to improve growth activity it is recommended to apply ammonium nitrate (20–30 g per bush) in early spring.

The main method of propagation of honeysuckle is green cuttings, the success of which depends on the correctly selected timing of cuttings. The cutting and planting of cuttings in the greenhouse begins when the first ripe fruits appear.

Features of cultivation

It is better to plant seedlings later than a month before the onset of stable frosts. It is possible in early spring in pre-prepared planting holes, 1 m deep and at least 80 cm wide.

Saplings preferably two years of age with 2-4 branches 30-40 cm long. The roots should have 3-4 branches. The distance between bushes is 2.5-1.5 m. Reducing the distance between plants to 1 m, as is sometimes recommended, leads to oppression of plants and exposure of the lower part of the bushes precisely during the period of full fruiting.

After planting, the seedlings are immediately watered, the tree trunk circles are mulched with loose organic material, humus, mature compost or finely chopped straw, in a layer of at least 4 cm. Honeysuckle grows and bears fruit in poor soils, but a greater harvest occurs in fertile, well-lit places.

Honeysuckle is a cross-pollinated crop, therefore, to obtain high and stable yields, planting 2–3 different varieties. Care activities include digging up tree trunks, removing weeds and sanitary pruning, which involves removing damaged and dry branches.

In the first and even in the second year after planting, no fertilizers are applied. In the future, as the bushes grow, ammonium nitrate (40-50 g per bush) can be used for early spring feeding. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are best applied partly in spring and partly in autumn. In spring, per bush - 30 g of superphosphate, in autumn - 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium sulfate. Fertilizing is combined with light watering.

Instead of applying fertilizer superficially, many hobbyists apply fertilizer directly to the root zone. To do this, starting from the third year after planting, they punch holes along the periphery of the crown with a crowbar, pour solutions of mineral or organic fertilizers into these holes and cover them with earth.

Among organic fertilizers, a solution of mullein in water (1:6) or bird droppings (1:10) is used. Application rate: for young bushes - 5 liters of nutrient solution and 10 liters for fruit-bearing ones.

Honeysuckle is moisture-loving, but does not tolerate flooding. Water the bushes as the soil dries, but always during critical phases of the growing season: during flowering, shoot growth (2 times), at the beginning of fruit ripening. One young bush requires 1-2 buckets of water, and an adult bush requires 4-6 buckets.

This culture is very slow to grow. In the first year, seedlings grow one shoot from 2 to 12 cm. The main growth continues for the first three years, during which time a bush of 0.5-1 m in height is formed. It is useless to stimulate shoot growth with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Bushes can be transplanted to a new location from July to October.

Features of pruning.

After two to three years of fruiting, a rather strong thickening forms at the tops of the branches, at the bottom the branches become bare, and restoration shoots grow from them. During the summer they reach the top of the bush and stop growing. And again, mixed and growth buds are formed in the upper and middle parts of these shoots, and only growth buds are formed at the base. Regeneration shoots, developing lateral branches, seem to “scrub” the old branches, causing them to bend to the sides.

The branches need to be shortened to 7-8 cm, which stimulates good growth shoots recovery. The optimal length of “stumps” when pruning is 7-10 cm. Without pruning, regenerative shoots will appear only in the second, and more often in the third year of fruiting, when the branches at the bottom of the bush are already exposed and the periphery becomes thicker. The branches of the seedling will grow upward slowly, the growth of the central shoot may be weak.

The growth of 2-3 replacement shoots contributes to the rapid formation of a fairly powerful bush. By the beginning of fruiting, the gardener can only control the rate of growth of the bush and thickening of the crown, cutting out inconveniently growing, unnecessary or broken branches.

Fruit-bearing bushes are regularly thinned out after two years, since a high yield of berries can be obtained with an average growth length of branches of at least 20 cm. Therefore, old branches that thicken the crown should be cut out “for stumps” in the 8-10th year. On next year 2-5 strong shoots will grow from the “stump”, one of which must be left to replace the removed branch, and the rest must be cut out.

Simultaneously with thinning on the bush, some of the strongly grown shoots from last year are shortened in order to enhance their branching. It is on the lower part of the growth that flower buds are formed.

If there is a need to lighten the peripheral zone of the bush, you can cut out part of the fruiting branch. The total number of branches of different ages in well-formed honeysuckle bushes should not be more than 15.

Don’t be embarrassed when fruit-bearing honeysuckle bushes lose bark at the base of the branches. This is a biological property of honeysuckle, where new bark is immediately formed.

A positive quality of honeysuckle is early fruiting. Already 3–4 years after planting, you can harvest the first harvest in the range of 100–150 g per bush. Among the modern assortment, high-yielding varieties include “Pushkinskaya”, “Lakomka”, “Dar Dal GAU”, “Princess Diana”, “Amazonka”, “Elizaveta”, “Maria”, giving a yield of 3 or more kg per bush.

One of consumer qualities This crop is large-fruited. The first varieties of honeysuckle had a fruit weight of 0.5 g and a sour taste, often with bitterness. Today, there is a group of varieties with fruits of dessert, sweet taste weighing 1–2 g. These varieties include “Antoshka”, “Viliga”, “Nymph”, “Pamyati Kuminova”, “Princess Diana”.

Reproduction

Honeysuckle is propagated both vegetatively and by seed. Seed propagation used in breeding new varieties. Only vegetative propagation helps maintain varietal qualities. On your own site, honeysuckle can be propagated by layering, dividing the bush, lignified and green cuttings.

Propagation by green cuttings begins in late May - early June. The length of the cutting is 25–30 cm. The lower leaves are removed, leaving only a couple of upper leaves. For better rooting, the lower part of the cuttings is placed in a root solution for 15–18 hours. They are also planted in a film greenhouse in a substrate of the same composition, but the frequency of watering is increased to 6–8 times a day. The rooting rate with this method reaches 100%. By autumn, the cuttings are ready to be dug up and transplanted for growing.

At what year do apple tree seedlings begin to bear fruit?

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Based on materials from answers@mail. ru and the answers from our readers.

When does an apple tree begin to bear fruit, in what year, how to speed it up

When can an apple tree bear fruit?

Apple tree 5852 0 Contents

• The beginning of fruiting of the apple tree
• Advice from experienced gardeners

Decorating the garden in the first year after planting, the apple tree does not immediately please with fruits. There are ways to speed up the fruiting process and enjoy the aroma of juicy fruits.

Various agricultural techniques will help speed up the fruiting process

An apple tree can bear fruit from the second year until the end of the tree's life. Proven agrotechnical techniques allow you to extend this period and improve the quality of fruits on the aging crown.

The beginning of fruiting of the apple tree

Each crop enters the period of fruiting differently. Some berries produce a harvest faster than others, already in the 1st or 2nd year. Stone fruit: cherries, cherries, and apricots need three to six years. Apple trees are pome crops that bear fruit quite late, after 5–7 years. With dwarf breeds, you can try apples a little earlier, at 3–4 years.

The characteristics of rootstocks and varieties are of great importance. Some names even on a vigorous rootstock produce the first fruits after three years. Examples of trees with early fruiting are the following varieties:

The Welsey apple tree is an example of an early fruiting tree.

This category of apple trees is characterized by regularity, a stable increase in yield each time. Dwarfs also bear fruit early. Dry, hot weather during the entire growing season can contribute to rapid fruiting young seedling. It can be slowed down by wet, gray weather two summers in a row.

Classic, tall varieties delight with the first fruits at 6-8 years. Some: Red Delicious, Sary-Sinap only after 10-12 years they enter the period of fruit formation.

How to bring the fruiting age of an apple tree closer

I don’t want to spend years waiting for the fruitfulness of the apple orchard, especially not for young people. There are methods tested by many plant growers. With persistent pursuit of results and careful care of the trees, it is possible to bring the harvest period closer. Methods of intensive agricultural technology contribute to accelerating the formation of the first fruits:

Spraying an apple tree with a fungicide diluted in water kills the formation of the ovary in the flower

An aqueous solution of the drug Sevin (2 g / 1 l) is used a week to a week and a half after flowering. The use of insecticide kills the embryos in the fruit buds. Growth-regulating KANU (25 mg/1l) has the same effect. On an industrial scale they are justified. For a small personal household, it is better to do without chemicals.

Mechanical. These include: bending branches, constriction, ringing. Observation of the garden will tell you which method to choose.

Branch bending - simplest technique. The awakening of the buds depends on the angle of departure of the skeletal branches; it should tend to 90°. In this position, growth is weakened and the onset of fruiting accelerates. The number of ovaries is determined by the length of the branch. The angle of departure is expanded by retracting the branch and securing it to a support or neighboring branches.

Banding. The bark (0.8–1.2 cm) is removed from the branch, turned over with the reverse side and secured in the form of a hoop on same place. This procedure limits the movement of photosynthetic products to the root system from the leaves; they are sent to create buds. The wound is coated with garden varnish and bandaged with tape or thin film. The bark incision can be spiral or semicircular. The circles are made parallel to the tree, maintaining 1 cm between them. On the crown, the skeletal branches are not touched, since the entire apple tree slows down its growth. The procedure is carried out 3–4 weeks from the moment of flowering.

Padding. Slowing down the outflow of juices downward, the trunk is tightly bent with wire. It is left to grow in or removed in the fall. They pull fattening branches. This technique should not be used for thin shoots (up to 10 mm).

Kerbovka. Performed in early spring. The effect of it is weakening, when an incision is made under a bud or shoot. Accelerates fruiting if the cut is made above the branch. The cortex is cut 3–4 mm above the kidney, as if covering it with a crescent. With little skill, you can make rectangular marks. Cross-shaped nicks are considered gentle, heal well, and give quick results.

Mechanical techniques are carried out only on some branches, redistributing energy. It is impossible to involve the entire tree in the manipulation, otherwise the roots will not have enough nutrition.

Furrowing can be used at the beginning of the growing season

At the beginning of the growing season, furrowing can be carried out, in which the bark is cut into living wood. The method accelerates the onset of fruiting and leads to a bountiful harvest. In addition, the apple tree rejuvenates and tolerates frost better.

Frequency of apple tree fruiting

And everyone would like to see it not only blooming, but also bearing fruit every year. Some apple varieties produce a limited number of fruit ovaries. For example, Borovinka and Calvil snowy, with proper care, are distinguished by continuous fruiting from year to year. Abundant watering, timely pruning, correct formation crowns guarantee stable yields.

Craftsmen have learned to achieve annual fruiting, even when the frequency was initially determined by varietal characteristics. They normalize the number of flowers and ovaries in the spring, removing everything they think is unnecessary. First, in one part of the fruit tree, on next year- in another section of the crown. The result is delicious apples on the table.

The frequency of fruiting is due to the fact that, having given strength in a year of high harvest, the apple tree rests for the next 24 months, accumulating substances for the future period. By forming fruit flowers, which then form a juicy fruit, the tree spends energy because:

• Actively growing and developing;
• Forms flowers with an ovary;
• Provides nutrition to growing fruits;
• It is stocked with microelements during hibernation.

During the flowering period, the apple tree needs quality care.

During this period, the apple tree needs sufficient heat, light, water, and vital resources. To ensure replenishment of expended energy, the culture needs quality care. It is important to stick to harvest planning. An overloaded tree requires more time to recover and form a new collection. It can “turn off” for 2-3 years.

At the stage of fruit birth, the apple tree spends 10 times more energy than on the growth of wood and foliage. In this phase it produces weakened growths. On the contrary, the crown develops rapidly during the barren period, but does not form fruits.

Annual powerful vegetative growth ensures the establishment of a new crop. Natural factors that cause periods of its absence interfere with the formation of:

• Frosts that kill life in flowers and buds;
• Cold, rainy summer after a frosty winter with little snow;
• Species, varietal diseases;
• Massive damage by pests;
• Lack of nutrition after the fruiting period.

When you want to balance the output of your favorite varieties, wise gardeners regulate the frequency of their ripening. They bring the process to the desired sequence. The first year one ripens, the second year another, and so on.

Seasonality is achieved by careful preparation: pruning, removing part of the productive buds. Filled with strength, the rested tree will give a powerful harvest in gratitude for the next year. This year, the energy of another apple tree will be spent on creating fruits, which will not bear fruit next year.

Forming a harvest year by year on one tree is often used when the area is small and apples are a favorite delicacy. Completely tearing off the flowers on one side, leaving the other intact, which alternately work on the formation of fruits. In this way you can stimulate the apple tree. It is necessary to carefully care for the fertile side so that the branches are not overloaded.

The corrected biorhythm of the tree will help you get a good harvest.

The adjusted biorhythm of the tree ensures stable performance during the annual harvest. The apples ripen large, juicy, with a bright aroma. The plant begins to bear strong fruits every year, with better marketability than in an excessively abundant harvest with periodic fruiting. Some fruits are of insufficient quality and unsuitable for long-term storage.

Practice shows that the weight, characteristics and number of fruits in total over two years exceed the indications of an apple tree, which can bear fruit periodically.

beauty blossoming apple tree- a picturesque spectacle. It refreshes in the heat, shelters from scorching sun rays, creating a saving shadow. Covered with ripening bright fruits, it looks picturesque in the garden. Surprisingly with a variety of flavor notes.

To see it like this every year, you need to look closely at the behavior of the plant in different conditions. Help to recover, cherish, care for the apple tree.

Pruning must be done at least once a year to balance the processes of growth and fruit formation. Depending on the region of cultivation, when the temperature rises closer to +10° C and the woody parts become more flexible, but sap flow has not yet begun, the tree is prepared for the season. The average time is mid-March. Removed:

Apple trees shorten their fruiting periods by annually digging up trunk circles with a radius of about 1 m. First, the soil is cleared of plant residues and debris. Treated with a prophylactic solution of iron sulfate (3%). Water abundantly, 30–40 buckets for each trunk. Mulch with sawdust, earth, compost in a good layer, from 0.2 m. The bases of the branches and the trunk are whitened, wrapped in burlap or other improvised, air-permeable material to prevent rodents. The tree is warmed by a pillow of snow around the trunk.

The trunk and bases of the branches must be whitened

With the onset of bright spring days, the tree is freed from its “clothes”. The mulch layer is turned up, but not removed; it retains moisture all season, warming during the day and cooling at night. The root system receives moisture from condensation even at very high air temperatures.

In order to force apple tree seedlings to begin bearing fruit earlier, the planting area is seasoned. A hole at least half a meter deep and 1 m in diameter is filled with rotted manure (4 buckets) mixed with wood ash (1 kg) and superphosphate (0.5 kg). Soil is placed on top, first black, fertile, then light (sandy, clayey). It all depends on the quality of the soil. Fertilizers are not needed in the first year.

In conclusion, a little trick for a big gardener: you can check whether the apples are ripe or not ready for harvesting and storage in a simple way.

Pick the fruit, cut it and drop in regular iodine. Reacting with starches, the spot turns black after 1–2 minutes, which signals insufficient ripeness. In ripe apples, iodine does not change color.

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Growing honeysuckle has become a favorite pastime for many gardeners. To grow honeysuckle you need to follow just a few simple rules. This is very useful plant, well-bearing, luxuriantly blooming, began to appear more and more often on personal plots. Honeysuckle is a deciduous low-growing shrub with a height of 1 to 1.5 meters. It has blue-black or dark blue berries with an elongated oval shape and a sweet and sour taste.

What are the benefits of honeysuckle?

Edible honeysuckle is a collective term that includes several blue-fruited species: edible, Kamchatka, Hegel, Turchaninov, Altai. Honeysuckle fruits contain 8% sugar, from 1 to 5 organic acids, pectins, tannins, P-active compounds (antacyanins, catechins), provitamins A1, B2, B1, vitamins C, as well as various trace elements: calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, sodium, calcium, copper, iron, iodine, aluminum, barium, silicon, strontium, manganese.

When do honeysuckle bushes begin to bear fruit?

Honeysuckle is a very cold-resistant plant. It can withstand frosts below 50 degrees. Propagated by all means - seeds, layering, green and lignified cuttings.

To be fair, it must be said that growing honeysuckle seedlings independently is a long-term process, so it is still better to purchase them from a nursery. Honeysuckle seedlings begin to bear fruit in the third or fourth year after sowing the seeds. If propagation occurs by cuttings, then the plant may produce the first berries after rooting the next year, but the harvest will be small.

Only in the sixth or seventh year can one bush produce a harvest of more than one kilogram of berries. The yield of the bush will increase until 15-17 years of age. Until that time growing honeysuckle most productive.

When the yield of the bush begins to fall, the bush can be renewed by cutting off all the branches to the base. The total lifespan of the plant is from 20 to 25 years.

Preparing the soil and planting honeysuckle seedlings

Honeysuckle's demands on soil are low, the only thing is that it gives preference to moist but drained areas. When starting to plant honeysuckle, you need to prepare the pits in which the bush will be planted in advance. A hole is dug about 40cm deep.

You need to add fertilizer to it, which consists of 3 kg of humus, 300 g of ash and 3 tbsp. spoons of nitrophos. Then in the pit it all mixes with top layer soil and watered with a solution of fluffy lime at the rate of 1 glass of lime per 10 liters of water. After 2-3 days, you can plant honeysuckle.

It is very important that the root collar is 5-7 cm below ground level. For the next week and a half, you need to ensure that the ground under the bush is wet all the time. It is advisable to water from a watering can so that the soil is gently moistened.

Honeysuckle care

Every year, it is advisable to apply manure or vegetable humus under the honeysuckle bush, remove weeds, and loosen the soil to improve access of air and water to the roots. If the weather is dry, then you need to do regular watering. During the growing season, it is advisable to do at least 3 feedings.

In dry weather, liquid fertilizing is done, and in rainy weather, dry fertilizing is done, pouring it under the bushes. The first fertilizing is done in the spring. To do this, prepare a solution: add a tablespoon of berry fertilizer and a tablespoon of nitrophos to 10 liters of water.

An adult fruit-bearing bush requires a large bucket of solution, and for young bushes 3 liters of solution is enough. The second feeding should be done at the stage of setting berries. To do this, prepare a solution consisting of one tablespoon of potassium sulfate, two tablespoons of nitrophos and 10 liters of water.

For an adult bush, about 20 liters of solution are needed, and for a young bush, 5 liters of solution is enough. The third feeding is done in the fall. This time, three tablespoons of superphosphate and two tablespoons of potassium sulfate are diluted in 10 liters of water.

For the third feeding, you need the same amount of solution as for the second feeding. The shrub has a well-developed root system, which is located mainly at a depth of 20 to 40 cm, so the soil around the plant can be cultivated without any restrictions. Growing honeysuckle- this is not only a significant addition to your table (wonderful preserves, jams, and compotes are made from honeysuckle), but also a delight for aesthetes.

By wisely arranging several different varieties on your plot, you can get not only healthy berries from growing honeysuckle, but also aesthetic pleasure. You may also be interested in articles about garden shrubs and endive and escarole salads. Read Garden Affairs and work on your garden and vegetable garden with us.

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10 secrets to getting a honeysuckle harvest

Many gardeners and summer residents, having planted honeysuckle on their plot, are disappointed with its yield. Despite the fact that the culture is very unpretentious, high yields it can be obtained by following some rules or secrets if you want.

It is the variety that largely decides the success of the business. Having planted a plant accidentally purchased on the market, perhaps even a seedling from a neighboring plot, no amount of agricultural technology will achieve in the future the results that you could get from a good variety with high potential. Which varieties will you decide to give preference will depend on your taste preferences and how you intend to use the crop. If mainly for fresh consumption, then choose fruitful varieties with a dessert taste, different periods maturation, for example: Amazon, Long-fruited, Maria, Elizabeth, Zarechnaya etc. These are varieties (Chelyabinsk) with excellent taste, rated 5 points.

Since honeysuckle berries are a perishable product (even in the refrigerator they can be stored for no more than two or three days), then with a significant harvest, most of it. Most likely, it will be processed or frozen. For this purpose, varieties with a slight sourness or bitterness, for example Lenita, Gerda, Blue Spindle etc. Many people like processed products from them more because of the bitterness present. Although this is a matter of taste, of course, there cannot be a consensus here. Here I would like to note that honeysuckle is a very flexible crop, and therefore on the site you can successfully grow not only regionalized, local varieties, but also varieties bred in other regions , with other soil-climatic conditions.

Such varieties can be superior to local ones in a number of ways. Read also: Honeysuckle (photo) planting and care 2. Ensure good cross-pollination of honeysuckle Since honeysuckle is a cross-pollinated plant and produces virtually no harvest in single-varietal plantings, the most important condition for obtaining high yields is to plant not two or three bushes of different varieties (as is often recommended), but 10-15 bushes or more. Planting only 2-3 bushes , the honeysuckle will, of course, bear fruit, but you won’t get high yields.

More than 40 varieties grow on our site. They pollinate each other well and never cease to please with high yields. In recent years, the Lenita variety of Chelyabinsk selection has especially stood out for its productivity.

It’s like a lifesaver for us. We collect 10-12 liters of berries from each bush of this variety every year. I believe that such a harvest is largely due to good cross-pollination between varieties.

Therefore, it is advisable that all the varieties on your site be different; fortunately, there are plenty of good varieties to suit every taste, and more and more new ones appear every year. 3. Attract pollinating insects to the area The productivity of honeysuckle largely depends on the efficiency of fruit set, which in turn depends on weather conditions and the presence of pollinating insects during flowering. Honeysuckle is pollinated mainly by bees and bumblebees, but the most effective pollinators are bumblebees.

They are more willing to visit group plantings. Therefore, it is advisable to place honeysuckle not in a row, like raspberries or currants. and in a clump (group) and, if possible, closer to the neighboring bushes.

Ideally, plant bushes in the corners at the junction of four plots, by agreement with the neighbors. In this case, you can get by with fewer bushes. An effective technique for attracting insects to the site is to spray all berry crops (including honeysuckle) at the beginning of flowering with a solution of sugar or honey: 2 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of water. varnish Since different crops bloom at different times, it is better to carry out such spraying in two or three doses.

If it is windy during flowering. damp, cool weather, then for better fruit set, it is good to spray the bushes with Ovary or Bud preparations, which stimulate fruit formation, at the beginning of flowering. Good results are also obtained by spraying plants in the budding phase with a tank mixture of Zircon (1 ampoule) and Cytovit (2 ampoules) per 10 liters of water. Read also: Growing honeysuckle in the country 4.

Choose the right place to plant One more, no less an important condition To obtain high yields of honeysuckle, it is imperative to plant it in an open, sunny place. It is good if the plantings are protected from the prevailing winds tall trees or buildings. If the bushes end up in partial shade, the yield of honeysuckle will sharply decrease, since the plants will constantly be in a state of oppression, and reproductive buds will develop poorly. Therefore, if possible, transplant it from the shade and partial shade to a sunny place.

If your bushes are small, this is relatively easy to do (honeysuckle has a compact, highly fibrous root system). Sometimes in the literature there is a recommendation to plant honeysuckle in a pattern of 1 by 2 m. With this pattern, the bushes in the row will close together in the fifth year, which will significantly complicate care and will lead to a decrease in yield. On our site, the bushes are planted according to a pattern of 1.5 by 2.0 m, and in some places in the row the bushes have already closed.

With a sparse pattern, it is easier to care for honeysuckle; you can approach each bush from all sides when picking berries, pruning, and weeding. The optimal distance between bushes in a row is 1.5-2.0 m, between rows -2.0-2.5 m This takes into account the fact that honeysuckle will grow and bear fruit in one place for 20-25 years. 5. Avoid thickening the honeysuckle crown A special feature of honeysuckle is its high shoot-forming ability, leading to rapid thickening of the bush.

To prevent this, annual, early spring thinning pruning is necessary. It is also necessary so that the bumblebees that pollinate it can freely reach the middle of the bush. Otherwise, the harvest will be concentrated mainly on the periphery of the bush!

Prepare planting holes and plant plants correctly Honeysuckle by its nature is very unpretentious and can grow on any soil, but the best results are obtained on light, fertile and breathable soils. If it is impossible to create such conditions throughout the entire site, then create them at least within the planting hole, which should be no less than 50-60 by 40 cm. In such a hole I usually add 1-2 buckets of humus, about 1 liter of wood ash, 30-50 g of AVA fertilizer and one or two handfuls of organomineral fertilizer Agrovitkor, which contains soil microorganisms of the genus Bacillus, which help suppress pathogenic microflora soil and the rapid overheating of any organic matter. The application of fertilizers in this composition and quantity helps to improve the health of the soil, increases the yield and quality of honeysuckle fruits. To improve the moisture capacity and structure of the soil (if possible), I also add 3-5 liters of vermiculite to each hole. I also use this filling of planting holes for other berry crops, sometimes adding peat, sand, dolomite flour etc. When planting, I deepen the root collar of the seedling 4-5 cm below ground level, then water it (up to 2 buckets of water for each hole) and be sure to mulch with humus, peat or mowed grass. 7.

Provide plants with moisture during fruit ripening It is known that the yield of honeysuckle, the size of its fruits and their taste varies from year to year and largely depends on weather conditions during the period of ripening and filling of the berries. During this period (May-June), it is necessary to do 4-6 good waterings, spending up to 4-5 buckets of water on each bush.

After watering, be sure to mulch the soil under the bushes with mown grass or other mulching material. During the same period and until the beginning of August, I spray the bushes several times with the Baikal EM-1 preparation. I carry out this type of watering and spraying directly from a watering can with a fine spray.

I use one watering can for about 5 bushes of honeysuckle, currants, gooseberries and other berries. (True, this is a rather labor-intensive operation.) The use of the drug HB-101 in liquid and granular form also gave good results. Related link: Growing decorative honeysuckle Honeysuckle berries are liked not only by people, but also by their feathered “helpers.” Take care to protect ripening berries from thrushes with protective netting and other repellents. 9.

Provide your plants with good nutrition Regularly apply organic and mineral fertilizers according to the scheme you choose. (Traditional mineral or AVA replacement.) 10. Be on the lookout! Don't stop there.

Look for, order, test new varieties: more productive, larger-fruited, with better taste. By using these simple techniques in caring for honeysuckle, you will always have a good harvest.

New varieties of honeysuckle (Kamchatka selection)

Although there is a lot of wild honeysuckle in the forests of Kamchatka, cultivated varieties of this plant are very popular among amateur gardeners. In 2013, several varieties of honeysuckle were included in the State Register of Breeding Achievements. The variety is distinguished by early and friendly ripening. Medium-sized bush, compact.

Productivity 1.8 kg per bush. The berries are very large (average weight 1.2 g, maximum 2.2 g), with a sweet taste. The fruits are bluish-blue with a faint waxy coating. The shape of the fruit is oval, the surface is slightly lumpy, the skin is thin, the consistency of the pulp is delicate.

Fruit detachment is easy, dry. Early ripening variety, winter-hardy. The bush is slightly spreading, of medium size. Productivity 2.1 kg per bush.

The fruits are large (1.6 g), with high taste, elongated oval, bluish blue with a waxy coating. The surface of the fruit is smooth. The tear-off is dry and easy. The shedding of ripe fruits is weak. A variety of late ripening, high winter hardiness.

The bush is vigorous, slightly spreading, of medium density. The fruits are medium in size (0.75-0.95 g), elongated oval, smooth surface. Detachment of the fruit is difficult, with rupture of the skin. The taste is sweetish with a noticeable bitterness.

The yield is high. And here are two varieties transferred to the State Survey. A honeysuckle variety of mid-early ripening, high winter hardiness. The bush is medium-sized, slightly spreading. The fruits are elongated oval in shape.

The color is dark blue, the surface is smooth. The skin is of medium thickness, the consistency of the pulp is tender and juicy. The taste is sweet and sour, dessert, with aroma, refreshing.

The weight of one fruit is 1.2 g. The nature of the detachment is dry. Gives a yield of 1.2 kg per bush in the 7th year after planting. The variety has a medium early ripening period and high winter hardiness. The bush is medium-sized, slightly spreading, dense.

The fruits are large, weighing more than 1 g, elongated oval, with smooth surface, dessert taste. Fruit detachment is easy and dry. The berries do not fall off.

Productivity in the 6th year after planting is 0.8 kg per bush. To get a pure grade planting material honeysuckle, it is propagated by cuttings. In the conditions of the Kamchatka Territory optimal time preparation of green cuttings with a heel - I-II ten days of June, green cuttings with and without a tip - III ten days of July, lignified cuttings - II ten days of August.

Most recommended effective method propagation - green cuttings with a heel and apex (rooting rate 80-100%). garden plots Two-year-old seedlings with a height of 35-45 cm take root best. To obtain annual high yields, you need to have from 3 to 10 plants of different varieties.

The best time for planting seedlings is the third ten days of August - the first ten days of October. The soil should be well moistened, loose, without stagnant water.

Since there are very few nutrients in volcanic soils, the planting hole must be filled with sufficiently high doses of organic and mineral fertilizers, which will provide the plants with enhanced growth in the first 3-4 years after planting. At least 30 kg of humus or peat compost, 150-200 g of superphosphate and potassium salt are added to a planting hole measuring 40x40 cm and thoroughly mixed with the top layer of soil.

You can apply complex fertilizer Nitrofoska (300 g per bush) or Ammophos (300 g per bush), Diammofos (150-200 g per bush).©E. PETRUSHA, senior researcher at the Kamchatka Research Institute of Agriculture and E. Churin, Chelyabinsk region, Miass-17.

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Honeysuckle: assortment, reproduction and cultivation

author Vantenkov V.V., photo by the company “Gardens of Russia” Honeysuckle - beautiful and productive, quite unpretentious fruit bush for garden. Along with such Far Eastern healing plants as lemongrass and actinidia, honeysuckle has become increasingly widespread in Russian gardens in recent years. Among the honeysuckle seedlings sold on the market, the most commonly found wild-growing honeysuckle is Kamchatka honeysuckle.

Like other wild plants, it is very difficult for it to take root after transplantation, especially since it is already a rather large bush. In this regard, purchased Kamchatka honeysuckle seedlings often die. In addition, this type of honeysuckle is quite capricious when grown in the garden, and its yield leaves much to be desired... Therefore, buy varietal honeysuckle seedlings only from reliable nurseries and companies. I will share with the readers of the Gardenia.ru website my experience in growing honeysuckle and the results of my own testing of different varieties this wonderful culture.

Tested varieties of edible honeysuckle

The selection of the most unpretentious and productive forms of honeysuckle has been going on for a long time, since the time of I.V. Michurin. With the advent of experimental stations, honeysuckle selection in Russia accelerated.

Bred by Russian scientists newest varieties honeysuckle are the best in the world. Suitable varieties of honeysuckle can be selected for almost any area. Good adaptability, as well as the unique early fruitfulness and usefulness of this crop were appreciated by our gardeners in all climatic zones of the country. The fruits of garden honeysuckle of different varieties vary greatly in shape (from oval-elongated and pear-shaped to round) and color (from bluish-gray to almost black).

Its berries are very reminiscent of blueberries, but honeysuckle is larger, and its fruits are denser and more aromatic, with a pleasant dessert combination of sugars and acid. I will describe tested varieties of edible honeysuckle that have proven themselves well both in my garden and in a variety of regions. Honeysuckle varieties. A small compact plant up to 1.5 m high. It grows well on any soil, is quite drought-resistant and decorative. This is a bush form of honeysuckle with thin spreading branches.

The leaves are dark green, dense, 5-7 cm long. Flowering is very early, not afraid of significant frosts (up to -8 degrees). The berries are dark blue, sweet and sour, somewhat pear-shaped.

Productivity 3-4 kg per bush. Honeysuckle variety. It grows as a half-bush and half-tree, depending on the climate and soil. A variety that adapts very well to different conditions. The plant even lends itself to artistic pruning.

The leaves are dark green and shiny. The berries are dark blue with a bluish coating, the largest ones up to 1 g. The yield of an adult bush is 8-10 kg.

The variety is drought-resistant, tolerates strong winter frosts(up to -10 degrees without snow) and return spring frosts during the flowering period. Honeysuckle variety. One of the most beautiful varieties. A spreading bush up to 2 m high, hemispherical, with strong and well-leafed shoots.

The branches are literally covered with large dove-blue berries with a pleasant refreshing taste, resistant to shedding. Productivity up to 5 kg.

This is an unpretentious variety that tolerates drought and harsh winters well. Honeysuckle variety. Medium-sized bushes 1.5 m high with medium-sized green-bluish leaves. The elongated berries are medium-sized, sweet and sour when watered. Productivity is average.

The variety is shade-tolerant, frost- and drought-resistant. Honeysuckle variety. Adapts very well to the most unfavorable conditions. Half-bush, half-tree, it has medium-sized sweet and sour berries with very dense pulp, suitable for freezing. Productivity 3-4 kg.

The frost resistance of the variety is high.

Reproduction and cultivation of honeysuckle

Honeysuckle propagates by seeds and vegetatively - by layering and cuttings. Honeysuckle is easy to grow from full seeds from ripe berries. Their sowing depth is about 1cm.

When sowing in spring, honeysuckle seeds are pre-stratified for 1-2 months (at a temperature of 0...+3 degrees). After stratification, about 70-90% of the sown honeysuckle seeds germinate. Of unstratified seeds, honeysuckle shoots appear very slowly (after 4-5 weeks), and only a third of the sown seeds germinate.

In this case, at the same time as sowing peppers, I recommend sowing unstratified seeds of edible honeysuckle if there are a lot of seeds available and the recommended stratification dates have been missed. I advise you to take the land for sowing and growing seedlings from the area where it is planned to grow honeysuckle in the garden - so that seedlings from childhood They are used to this soil. It is desirable that the land for sowing honeysuckle seeds be light and fertile. I allocate a bright place in the house for keeping honeysuckle seedlings on the windowsill, without cold drafts.

At first, babies develop slowly, this is normal. I plant honeysuckle seedlings in separate cups at the age of 1.5-2 months.

Otherwise, when transplanting, older plants will have their rather thin branching roots damaged. Caring for honeysuckle seedlings is usual, as for any seedlings grown at home - regular watering, and careful loosening of the soil is allowed only at the very beginning. To prevent drying out, I cover the surface of the earth with tea.

Before planting honeysuckle seedlings in open ground, I harden them. Caring for honeysuckle is not difficult. Garden honeysuckle, although shade-tolerant, blooms and bears fruit more abundantly in open areas.

There is no need to get carried away with loosening the soil around the garden honeysuckle bush, because the bulk of the roots are located superficially. It is better to mulch the ground with humus or non-rhizome weeds. For mulching, honeysuckle cannot be used for sawdust of coniferous trees! I have never observed any cases of garden honeysuckle becoming infected with any diseases over many years - neither on my own plants, nor among gardeners I know.

Pollination and fruiting of honeysuckle

Edible honeysuckle begins to bear fruit regularly early, already at 3-4 years of age. Honeysuckle seedlings developing in favorable conditions increase their yield quite quickly.

Honeysuckle lives for a very long time, the bush regularly bears fruit in the garden for decades. Seedlings of different varieties of honeysuckle mutually pollinate each other, which dramatically increases the yield of each bush. Therefore, to obtain high yields in the garden, you need to have at least three varieties of honeysuckle for cross-pollination.

If the area of ​​your garden is small, which does not allow you to plant several bushes, then agree with your neighbors about joint planting of honeysuckle. The distance between planted plants can reach 15-20 m, but the closer they grow, the better for cross-pollination of honeysuckle bushes.

The main insect pollinators of edible honeysuckle flowers, which are one of the first shrubs to bloom in the garden, are bumblebees, wasps and bees. taste qualities Edible honeysuckle fruits and their chemical composition are greatly influenced by many factors. The weather influences greatly - air temperature and precipitation during the ripening period.

In hot weather, honeysuckle berries accumulate more sugars. And cool weather with sufficient rain increases the overall acidity of the fruit, including the content of ascorbic acid. It is necessary to take into account: the amount of dry matter put into one harvest of garden honeysuckle berries is unchanged.

Therefore, if you give the plant extra watering, the mass of berries will simply increase, which will inevitably affect their taste. If there are only three honeysuckle bushes growing in your garden, and the need for berries is large, then I advise you to fertilize immediately after harvesting. Since mid-July I have been feeding honeysuckle 2-3 times.

It is better to feed fermented weeds. And during the period of setting honeysuckle berries, fertilizing with an infusion of wood ash (half a liter jar of ash per bucket of water) is very useful.

Honeysuckle. A very_beautiful_decorative_plant. Honeysuckle_will_decorate_your_area

This will significantly improve the taste of honeysuckle berries and increase the content of useful microelements in them. Birds (especially blackbirds), which are very fond of its healthy berries, can cause great damage to the honeysuckle harvest. Therefore, ripening honeysuckle must be protected from birds.

About the healing properties of honeysuckle berries

The berries of garden honeysuckle have fully preserved all the beneficial properties of the fruits of its wild ancestors. The rich chemical composition of early ripening honeysuckle berries (vitamins, acids, microelements) and their strength beneficial influence effect on the body makes this plant indispensable in the garden.

In terms of healing effects, the berries of edible honeysuckle are right behind ginseng, but the hassle of growing honeysuckle is much less! Honeysuckle berries, like the leafy cuttings of rhubarb that grow in the spring, are the earliest vitamin medicines and delicacies in the garden. Honeysuckle fruits ripen two weeks earlier than the first strawberries.

Therefore, honeysuckle berries are the very first and surest remedy for spring vitamin deficiencies and various kinds of body overload. But the most important therapeutic effect of garden honeysuckle fruits is anti-radiation.

For treatment, you just need to regularly eat fresh berries in such quantities as the body requires and tolerates. The fruits of edible honeysuckle have long been used in folk medicine for hypertension, cardiovascular diseases, gastrointestinal disorders, malaria, etc. Honeysuckle berries are also used as a medicine for diabetes (type 2), obesity, hypertension and joint diseases. Both fresh and prepared honeysuckle berries (frozen, jam, juices, compote) bring many benefits to our body, besides, they taste good and are very refreshing. Grow unpretentious and productive varieties of honeysuckle in your garden, eat delicious and healthy berries for pleasure and benefit!

HONEYSUCKLE. "THE YOUNG AND THE EARLY"

How I love this berry. On May 28, I already ate it from a bush in my garden.
Nobody remembers when a person “tamed” raspberries or currants by transplanting bushes from the forest closer to home. But the domestication of edible honeysuckle occurred literally before the eyes of several generations.

Residents of Siberia and the Far East have been collecting blue berries from wild honeysuckle in the taiga for a long time.

But active work on creating the first varieties began only in the 80s. Today there are already more than a hundred of them, and the number of varieties and popularity among gardeners middle zone continues to grow rapidly.

Advantages and disadvantages

Honeysuckle is very unpretentious, grows and bears fruit even on poor soils, does not require special care, diseases and pests hardly damage it. This is an amazingly winter-hardy plant that does not freeze even in the Arctic: it can withstand temperatures down to -45 C. The flowers (they appear in May, when significant cold snaps are possible) can withstand six-degree frosts, buds - and more low temperatures. In addition, honeysuckle is not afraid of high air pollution and bears fruit every year. And most importantly, these are the first berries of the season, ripening two to three weeks before strawberries, precisely at a time when our body especially needs vitamin support after a long winter. The only drawback is that the berries do not ripen at the same time and fall off if they are not picked in time. But it is possible that it will gradually disappear: now varieties have appeared for which this is not typical.

Landing

For edible honeysuckle, choose an open and sunny, but protected from the wind, place. It is convenient to plant bushes along the edge of the plot with a distance between plants of 0.5 ( hedge) up to 1.5 m. The soil should be moisture-absorbing, but without stagnant water. Soil type - almost any.

It is better to plant honeysuckle in the fall. Plants planted in spring take root less well, and this must be done early - in April, before flowering. Most varieties are self-sterile; to ensure cross-pollination, you will need at least two different varieties flowering at the same time, preferably three to five.

Planting material (2-3 year old seedlings) should look like this: the above-ground part consists of 4-5 skeletal shoots 25-35 cm long and at least 5 mm thick at the base, roots no shorter than 25 cm, with 4-5 branches.

Immediately before planting, planting holes (40x50x40 cm) are prepared. They add organic fertilizers (up to two buckets, depending on the type of soil), as well as superphosphate (up to 200 g) and potassium salt (35-40 g).


Care

In the first 3-4 years after planting, honeysuckle grows slowly. At this time, you only need to weed and loosen the soil - but do this carefully, since the plant has a superficial root system. It's better to mulch right away root circle humus, peat or dry soil. Thanks to this, moisture will also be maintained, especially necessary for honeysuckle in the first half of summer, during the intensive growth of shoots. If there is insufficient watering, even dessert varieties of berries will taste bitter.

From 6-8 years of age, plants are pruned, removing old and damaged branches under the base. To prevent the crown from becoming too thick, they get rid of numerous root shoots. The tops of young shoots, which contain the maximum number of flower buds, are not cut off.

In autumn, honeysuckle is fed with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers - up to 30 g of superphosphate and up to 20 g of potassium salt per 1 square meter. m. Can be used in spring nitrogen fertilizers(30 g of urea for the same area).

It's time for fruiting

The first fruits of honeysuckle of early varieties appear at the end of May, and mass ripening occurs after six to seven days. It is quite extended, and it is better not to delay harvesting, since most varieties of berries fall off easily.

Seedlings begin to bear fruit already in the second or third year after planting; the maximum number of berries is produced in the fourth or fifth year. With good care, honeysuckle can produce high yields for 20-25 years.

Reproduction

Honeysuckle can be propagated by seeds and vegetative way. The most effective method is green cuttings. After flowering or during the period of the appearance of the first fruits, cuttings are cut from strong annual shoots of the current year using the middle part of the shoot. A cutting 8-12 cm long should have two or three buds and a pair of leaves on the crown. Cut cuttings are treated with growth stimulants. The soil mixture is prepared from peat and sand in a ratio of 1:3. The cuttings are planted obliquely according to a 5x5 cm pattern in ordinary garden greenhouses or greenhouses. They need to be supported optimal humidity substrate and air (up to 85%) and a temperature of 20-25 C. To reduce moisture evaporation, the film is shaded with burlap. In such conditions, after two to two and a half weeks, the cuttings will form a root system, and by the beginning of September it will be fully formed and they can be planted in the garden for growing.

Young plants whose branches are located close to the ground are conveniently propagated by horizontal branches. At the end of April - beginning of May, annual shoots are bent to the ground and their tops are pinched, then they are covered with damp soil or humus. And during the growing season they keep the soil moist. By autumn, the cuttings have formed roots - the plants are separated and replanted.

You can use bush division. Early in spring or autumn, after the end of leaf fall, 3-5 year old bushes with a loose crown are dug up and divided into two or three parts.

BY THE WAY

Many people know honeysuckle as ornamental plant, however, in their own way beneficial properties it is not inferior to other berries. And although there are many varieties of honeysuckle, it is important to remember that only dark blue berries are edible, and red, yellow, and orange fruits are not suitable for food. Honeysuckle has its own specific sweet and sour taste and is somewhat reminiscent of black currant. Just like currants, it contains a lot of vitamin C, a lot of B vitamins, carotene, glucose, fructose, and in terms of the content of micro and macro elements you can’t find equals: calcium, potassium, magnesium, iodine, phosphorus, manganese, copper - what’s not in it? this natural first aid kit!

Honeysuckle berries reduce high fever, normalize high blood pressure, relieve headaches, strengthen blood vessels and memory. And the pectins they contain help remove heavy metal salts from the body. This is especially important for residents of megacities and those who live in unfavorable environmental areas.

∙ In folk medicine, honeysuckle berries were used as an appetite stimulant. The juice was used to treat lichens and ulcers, the eyes were washed with a decoction of the leaves, and the throat was gargled for sore throat and pharyngitis.

∙ Berries are useful for liver diseases, gastritis, duodenal ulcers, cardiovascular diseases, hypertension and atherosclerosis. They contain sugar, vitamins and other beneficial substances, and are rich in micro- and macroelements.

What vitamins are contained in honeysuckle?

Honeysuckle is rich in vitamins that are very beneficial for our body, including vitamins such as:

Beta-carotene - 0.3 mg
Vitamin A - 50 mcg
Vitamin B1 - 3 mg
Vitamin B2 - 3 mg
Vitamin C - 150 mg

What macro and microelements are contained in honeysuckle?

Honeysuckle is rich in macro and microelements that are necessary for the normal functioning of our body, including:
Calcium - 19 mg
Magnesium - 21 mg
Sodium - 35 mg
Potassium - 70 mg
Phosphorus - 35 mg
Iron - 0.8 mg
Iodine - 90 mcg
Copper - 90 mcg
Manganese - 0.09 mg
Silicon - 90 mg
Aluminum - 90 mcg
Strontium - 90 mcg
How many calories does honeysuckle contain?
Calorie content of honeysuckle - 30 kcal per 100 grams of honeysuckle
How much protein is there in honeysuckle?
Honeysuckle contains about 0% protein by weight.
How much fat is in honeysuckle?
Honeysuckle contains about 0% fat.
How many carbohydrates are in honeysuckle?
Honeysuckle contains about 8% carbohydrates.


“Gardener” No. 4, April 2008
http://www.drevo-spas.ru/publications/tips/plants-world/articles.html/id/181
Honeysuckle propagates by layering, seeds and cuttings

Propagation by seeds

The seeds are obtained from ripened berries. The simplest way to prepare berries is to crush the berries on filter paper and dry them on it. The seeds are then placed in paper bags and are stored until spring. Seeds are suitable for germination for 3-4 years. The seeds are very small, about 2 mm. Honeysuckle seeds are small; there are about 900 seeds in 1 gram. There are up to 20 of them in 1 berry.

Seeds have the highest quality germination in the year of collection. The soil for sowing is prepared from a mixture of sand, peat and turf soil in a ratio of 1:1:2. Add 1.5 tbsp to a bucket of mixture. spoons superphosphate 1 tbsp. a spoonful of ammonium nitrate. It is recommended to sow seeds in room conditions or under film. Seeds are sown in boxes, planted shallowly and sprinkled with sand on top. Sowing of seeds is carried out in mid-April (as soon as the soil thaws). Shoots will be visible in 2-3 weeks.

Propagation by cuttings

Cuttings are harvested after leaf fall, buried in the soil or stored in the basement. Cuttings from 16 to 18 cm are cut. Planting is done in April on spilled and loose soil. Cover the top bud with 1 cm of soil. After this, the planted cuttings are shaded.

Regular watering, loosening and weeding are required. After rooting, watering is reduced, and shading is left for some time. Next year, the seedlings are dug up and planted for growing for 2 years. The distance is 40 cm in a row and 80 cm between rows.

Reproduction by layering

Honeysuckle propagates by layering, just like currants. Early in the spring, shoots from last year are bent down, pinned to the ground. When new shoots appear, do 1-2 hillings. In the fall, the shoots are dug up and grown. Then the shoots are planted in a permanent place.

Caring for the shoots in the future consists of weeding and loosening the soil. The shoots are dug up in October. Horizontal shoots are cut and dug up. By that time, fibrous roots are formed on the shoots. The shoots are cut into seedlings with pruning shears.
http://malina1c.ru/garden_new/8.php

From a once rare crop, honeysuckle has now become one of the main berry bushes in our gardens.

Among garden crops, the ripening season for fresh fruits opens with honeysuckle, which is gaining immense popularity not only among gardeners, but also among industrial producers. Depending on spring conditions, honeysuckle ripens 7-10 days earlier compared to the earliest varieties of strawberries.

Honeysuckle is valued for its rich biochemical composition of fruits, which includes vitamin A - which helps improve the immune system, C - which prevents fatigue, and iron - which helps in the fight against anemia. Eating honeysuckle fruits helps treat hypertension, malaria, liver and heart diseases.

Honeysuckle, with tasty and healthy fruits that produce large harvests, is the pride of Russian scientists and the hope of our gardeners. In the selection of honeysuckle, Russia is significantly ahead of other countries, having serious successes and advantages. After all, our climate is perfectly suitable for growing this wonderful berry crop. And in a milder climate, it is difficult to obtain large harvests of honeysuckle.

In the first and even in the second year after planting, no fertilizers are applied. In the future, as the bushes grow, ammonium nitrate (40-50 g per bush) can be used for early spring feeding. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are best applied partly in spring and partly in autumn. In spring, per bush - 30 g of superphosphate, in autumn - 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium sulfate. Fertilizing is combined with light watering.

Instead of applying fertilizer superficially, many hobbyists apply fertilizer directly to the root zone. To do this, starting from the third year after planting, they punch holes along the periphery of the crown with a crowbar, pour solutions of mineral or organic fertilizers into these holes and cover them with earth.

Among organic fertilizers, a solution of mullein in water (1:6) or bird droppings (1:10) is used. Application rate: for young bushes - 5 liters of nutrient solution and 10 liters for fruit-bearing ones.

Honeysuckle is moisture-loving, but does not tolerate flooding. Water the bushes as the soil dries, but always during critical phases of the growing season: during flowering, shoot growth (2 times), at the beginning of fruit ripening. One young bush requires 1-2 buckets of water, and an adult bush requires 4-6 buckets.

This culture is very slow to grow. In the first year, seedlings grow one shoot from 2 to 12 cm. The main growth continues for the first three years, during which time a bush of 0.5-1 m in height is formed. It is useless to stimulate shoot growth with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Bushes can be transplanted to a new location from July to October.

Over the winter, I'm tired of dried fruit compotes, I want something fresh. Growing edible honeysuckle will help you easily survive spring vitamin deficiency every year. The fruits ripen at the very beginning of summer, earlier than strawberries and other berries. Nature has given a generous gift to the residents of the northern regions. This plant tolerates severe frosts well. The branches are not damaged in cold down to -50⁰, flower buds tolerate up to -40⁰. The propagation of berry crops throughout the country is growing every year.

Features of honeysuckle

To find comfortable spot for the bush and provide it proper care, you need to know the structure and development features of honeysuckle. The bush can reach a height of 1.8 m, produces many shoots that form a lush crown with a diameter of up to 2 m. So that at the end of next spring you can taste the juicy fruits, in mid-summer the plant begins to form flower buds in the axils of the upper leaves.

The root system of honeysuckle grows greatly both in width and depth. Powerful rods go into the ground and, at a distance of about 70 cm from the surface, develop a dense network of root processes. They sprout in different directions, extending half a meter beyond the crown perimeter. When planting, you need to take this quality of the plant into account.

Honeysuckle wood is very durable; propagation by dividing the bush or removing unnecessary branches must be done with a saw. Around the fourth year, the bark of the plant cracks and peels off from the shoots in long strips. Do not try to determine what kind of disease or pest attacked the bush, it is healthy and will grow a new covering very soon after that.

Choosing a place for a bush

If you are at the wrong landing location berry bush, nothing bad will happen. Honeysuckle can grow in one place for up to 20 years, but easily tolerates transplants both in youth and in adulthood. And yet, in order not to disturb the plant unnecessarily, think about the layout of the garden in advance. It is very bad to move the bush to another place immediately after planting.

Honeysuckle loves fertile loams and sun. In the shade, the bushes develop well, but the harvest, despite good care, becomes smaller. The soil reaction should be neutral; in acidic soils the plant develops poorly and bears little fruit. Honeysuckle loves wet air, but does not tolerate wet soil and groundwater. Due to dampness in the ground, its roots begin to rot. If your site is located in a swampy area, ensure good drainage.

The plant is cross-pollinated; alone it will produce a very meager harvest. The more neighbors a bush has, the more berries it will produce. Do not rely on reproduction from one specimen, it will not produce results. Plant at least 3 copies, and it is advisable that all varieties be different. If you take planting material from friends, separate it from different bushes. When purchasing from a nursery, give preference to zoned varieties.

Depending on the climate, the following varieties of honeysuckle have proven themselves well:

• Sineglazka;
• Violet;
• Nymph;
• Blue bird;
• Kamchadalka.

When and how to plant

Honeysuckle wakes up very early, the buds begin to produce leaves at the end of March. The bushes go into a dormant state at the end of July, when other plants are in the midst of their growing season. From August to November you can safely plant; next year the plants will wake up and begin to develop. Spring planting undesirable: when the soil thaws, the bushes are already actively developing, there is no need to disturb them. If such a need arises, dig up the entire bush with big lump soil to minimize damage to the root system.

You can plant the bushes in a row or in a group; in any case, they need space. Make the distance between the bushes at least 1.5 m, then the honeysuckle will be comfortable and caring for it will be easy. The plant gets along well with black currants; you can place them in one corner of the garden.

Holes for planting bushes should be at least 40 cm in diameter and depth. Honeysuckle loves organic matter, place 2 buckets of compost and a liter jar of ash under each bush. You need to be careful with mineral fertilizers; the plant does not really like them. Three tablespoons of superphosphate will be enough.

Water the holes well, plant the bushes, spreading the roots evenly in all directions. The root collar should be buried 5-6 cm, then it will produce additional shoots. Water the hole so that the soil is compacted and there are no air pockets left. Mulch the circle with a layer of compost at least 5 cm thick; this procedure will help retain moisture and make caring for the plants easier.

After planting, do not shorten the branches. Pruning will slow down the growth of the bush and reduce the yield.

Plant care

Honeysuckle is an unpretentious crop, caring for it is easy. In September, trim off diseased, broken and dry shoots. Leave no more than 18 skeletal branches on the bush, remove the rest. The plant bears fruit most strongly in the 7th year. After 20 years, the bushes become old and produce little fruit. If branches that do not produce berries are cut out each season, the productive period can be extended. Proper care will also help increase fruit harvest. Honeysuckle is propagated using adult bushes; the plant can be divided only at the age of 8 years.

Honeysuckle does not tolerate stagnant water, but it needs moisture. Watering should be plentiful, especially when the fruits ripen. Pour at least a bucket of water under each bush. If the summer is dry, then 2 buckets of liquid will not hurt.

At first, the plants will have enough nutrition that you added when planting. In the third year, in the spring, apply a bucket of organic fertilizer under each bush. If the soil is low in nitrogen, feed the honeysuckle in early spring with a tablespoon of urea diluted in a bucket of water. In September, pour 0.5 liters of ash into the ground; at the beginning of the growing season, it will supply the plant with the necessary components.

Honeysuckle propagation

The plant's seeds germinate well, but may not retain the quality of the parent specimen. You will only find out which bush will grow from the grains when you try the fruits: in the 3rd year. If Bluebird was chosen, do not expect berries of the same variety to grow. If you like to experiment, you can try this propagation, but it is usually used only for breeding or landscape design.

Crush the ripe fruits and let the seeds dry. At the end of October, sow them in the ground. In spring, shoots begin to appear. When the seedlings have 2 pairs of leaves, plant them in the nursery. Next year you can plant the bushes in a permanent place. You need to plant them 20 cm apart, then transfer the specimens with tasteless fruits to create a hedge.

Honeysuckle is propagated by dividing the bush. The plant must be well developed and at least 8 years old. Arm yourself with an axe, saw or other durable tool and separate a fragment with 3 skeletal branches and a root at least 20 cm long. The fragment must be planted immediately.

At the end of March you can prepare cuttings. The diameter of the branches should be at least 7 mm, length - about 17 cm. Stick the bottom cut into the thawed ground to a depth of 10 cm. At least 2 buds should remain above the surface. Roots will begin to develop in about a month. If you are late, you can prepare the shoots after flowering. Take a one-year-old twig that has a fresh sprout. Bury it 5 cm into the ground. After 2 weeks, new leaves will appear on the young shoot. Green cuttings can also be cut at the end of June. Stick them 10cm into the soil and keep the soil moist.

Propagation by cuttings will work better if you treat the lower cut with a root growth stimulator. There are many drugs, how to use them correctly, read the instructions.

Diseases and pests of bushes

Honeysuckle berries are liked not only by people, but also by insects. Carefully monitor the condition of your pets every year.

• If, when young shoots and leaves appear, the tops are gnawed off, it is the caterpillars of the leaf rollers.
• Yellow leaves are traces of aphid activity.
• Willow scale leaves bulges in the form of commas on the bark.

From drivers, treat the bushes special drugs. Honeysuckle is resistant to diseases, sometimes it can appear powdery mildew. For example, the Blue Bird variety almost never gets sick. Treat the plants with Fitosporin; it is not poisonous and will not harm the crop. Do not forget that good care makes plants strong and able to cope with all problems on their own.

Don't forget about biological plant protection products. Planted nearby and will protect the plantings from diseases and pests. Spray the bushes with an infusion of wormwood and other herbs that insects are afraid of. Hang birdhouses and feeders to attract birds to the garden.

Why grow honeysuckle in the garden

There are a lot of berry crops, so why not grow semi-bitter honeysuckle? This plant has many benefits. First of all, it bears fruit very early every year and does not require complex care. Children don't want to go to the country? Tell them that delicious berries have already appeared on the bushes, and the kids, pushing each other aside, will rush into the car.

Honeysuckle is not afraid of frost; it can be grown where strawberries and currants do not yield. Residents of northern regions also need vitamins. Unpretentious shrub will help them survive the long polar winter. The only problem: the flowers can survive frosts of at least -8⁰. If the bushes bloom early, keep an eye on the weather forecast. When threatened severe frosts wrap them up non-woven material to save the harvest.

Conclusion

Honeysuckle is the earliest berry; it can be grown even in the far north. In spring, the body requires vitamins, a person is ready to eat any blade of grass. Bitter and sour fruits will saturate you with vitamins, the first compotes will be a good help after a long winter.

Caring for bushes is not difficult, but in order to get a good harvest every year, you need to grow several bushes of different varieties. If you take planting material from friends, take cuttings from different bushes. When purchasing from a nursery, ask what combination of varieties will be optimal.

You can make jam from the berries, prepare compotes and jelly. When choosing a recipe, give preference to those where heat treatment will be minimal. Berries are rich in vitamins and other useful components; do not let high temperatures destroy them. The earliest blue berries can grow in any area; provide the plants with proper care, and you are guaranteed a rich harvest.