How to plant fruit trees in spring. When is it better to plant fruit tree seedlings in spring or autumn? Selection and preparation of seedlings

The matter is more complicated than it seems at first glance. Back in 1909 gardening instructor J. Pengerot in an article with the expressive title “Should I plant trees in autumn or spring?” put forward interesting arguments on this topic.

Wise thought

“Autumn planting works out better the earlier it can be done.”

A complicated matter

“There is no doubt that a newly planted tree is more sensitive to frost than an already rooted one, and therefore the preference is for spring planting rather than autumn planting.

Although autumn planting cannot be considered impossible... A tree should be planted only at a time when it has stopped growing, when the shoots that have grown during the summer have become completely strong and mature, i.e., from September to October (the further south you go, the earlier you can start transplantation; for example, in Saratov province you can start already at the end of August); in the spring, now, when the ground has thawed, until the buds begin to bloom.”

The information is correct, but it is still unclear: autumn or spring? However, further the author talks about his experience “in the Baltic region and other northern provinces.”

Autumn wins

“Having been involved in gardening and planting trees for more than 25 years... I adhered to the following: I always gave preference to autumn planting, with the exception of those cases when I had to plant on extremely clayey, wet soil. If the landing is made early autumn, as already said above, at a time when the tree, although it has stopped growing, the sap movement in it has not yet completely stopped, then before the onset of frost it will have time to produce young roots, and also the root sections will partially float. Such a tree will overwinter well and begin to grow quickly next spring. The later the transplant is carried out, the less time the tree has time to take root and in the spring it is slower to take root, and sometimes in winter some of it dies from severe frosts. Leaves of trees planted in autumn must be trimmed so that they do not evaporate reserve moisture, since the perception nutrients it stops until new roots appear.

True, in very cold areas and on damp, cold soils, they should be planted in the spring, because during autumn planting, subsoil water can adversely affect the roots of new plantings. In hot countries, even on moist soil, spring planting has its downsides: if it is not possible to resort to frequent watering, then the summer heat soon dries out the soil, and newly planted trees often die or are poorly received.”

Confirmation from the Volga region

“Autumn plantings, gardeners assured me, completely die in the first winter.

I did not believe this, and when, finally, in the fall of 1908, I had the opportunity to plant in two gardens ... For the final decision controversial issue I planted in the fall. I planted 60 apple trees and 10 pears in each garden in the first half of September - at the end of October I covered them with dry weeds from the bottom to the very tops in a thin layer, and handed them over to the power of winter. In one garden, all the trees died, in the other, 2 apple trees and 2 pear trees died.”

And in the summer, the author of the article visited neighboring lands, where seedlings from the same nursery were planted in the spring. The following picture appeared to his gaze: “About 50% of the apple trees and the same number of pears looked healthy, about 10% of the apple trees and 50% of the pears died, and the remaining apple trees are still between life and death, despite the fact that the spring was favorable.”

Based on materials from the magazine “Progressive Gardening and Horticulture”

* the article refers only to seedlings with an open root system

Personal experience

Prepare your sleigh in summer

Frost on bare ground is the nightmare of many summer residents. Especially for those who can only visit their garden on weekends. And for those who, like me, managed to plant a lot of heat-loving plants - and even more so!

Since during my time gardening I managed to “step on the same rake” more than once, meeting the frost without snow with useless moaning and throwing, then in Lately I made it a rule to prepare for a possible cold snap in advance. I hope my experience will be useful to other summer residents.

Firstly, it is better to prepare plants that will have to be covered for the winter early, even if the aesthetics of the garden suffer from this. For example, bend it down and lightly sprinkle it with earth large leaf hydrangeas, arrange climbing and shrub roses before their branches become brittle from the cold. It wouldn't hurt to throw on non-woven material: in the absence of snow, it, of course, will not protect you from frost, but it will help “soften the blow” when the temperature drops sharply.

Secondly, be sure to mulch tree trunk circles heat-loving trees and shrubs. A layer of organic matter 10-15 cm thick will protect their roots from frost. For lovers of “sour” things, for example, rhododendrons, azaleas and magnolias, you can use peat, pine litter, and sawdust. For others - compost, grass clippings, fallen leaves. This can be done in September or October, without rushing and without making a rush the day before severe frosts. In addition, I mulch the soil in flower beds with perennials. In the event of a sudden cold snap, the wet soil literally “explodes,” which often leads to damage to the root system. A thick layer mulch will protect you from this disaster.

Thirdly, it is worth preparing a “strategic reserve” of free covering material - fallen leaves. Oak ones are best, but in the absence of such, you can use any that you have on hand. I usually take half an hour, rake leaves from under nearby trees and collect them in large garbage bags. In the event of a sudden cold snap, it is enough to cover the cut perennials with leaves - they will serve as insulation instead of snow.

S. A. Gulyaeva, Moscow region.

Quality and availability of planting material.
Type of garden plant.
Climatic features of the region.
Possibility of provision good care after landing.

Let's look at all these points in order.

Quality and availability of planting material

If possible, give preference to seedlings with a closed root system

From the point of view of the breadth of choice, it is more profitable to purchase seedlings in the fall. In the spring, nurseries usually sell off the remnants of what they were unable to sell in autumn months. When purchasing, pay attention to the following points:

Give preference to seedlings with a closed root system (in pots, with big lump land), since it will take root better and can be planted for permanent residence at almost any time.
For bare-rooted seedlings, be sure to check for a graft mark on the root collar. If it’s not there, then most likely they’re trying to sell you something. In this case, the wound from the rootstock should already be overgrown.
The thicker the beard around the main root, the better. The fibrous root system guarantees good survival rate young plant. Now some nurseries dig up seedlings for sale using a plow, which leads to severe damage to the roots of the plants (up to 90% of their total mass is cut off). Therefore, it is so important to conduct a thorough inspection of the roots of the seedling before purchasing.
Carefully inspect the trunk of a tree or bush in its lower part: there should be live buds on it and there should be no cracks or wounds.

Remember: the less time passes between digging up a seedling with an open root system in the nursery and planting it on permanent place, the higher the likelihood that it will take root on your site. In this regard, we can conclude that autumn planting of seedlings is still more reliable than spring, when gardening companies mainly sell off their illiquid stock.

Type of garden plant and climate features

IN Middle lane It is better to plant all stone fruit crops in the spring due to the high risk of seedlings freezing in winter. Rest garden plants in temperate latitudes it should be planted in autumn. In the south, it is recommended to plant a garden exclusively in the fall, because in these regions the heat starts already in March and the rains stop.

The specific timing of this work is determined in each case individually, based on the fact that the seedling needs about a month to take root after planting. During this period, it requires moderate temperatures and constant soil moisture. Therefore, it is so important that at this time the seedling does not fall under very coldy(below -15...20 degrees) in the fall, and also did not “sunbathe” in the thirty-degree heat in the spring.

If you are late with planting, it is better to bury the purchased seedlings or store them in the cellar. You can read how this is done in.

Ensuring good care after planting

If you nevertheless decide to plant seedlings in the spring, then make sure that you can give the plants regular and abundant watering. Without this, they have little chance of surviving until autumn. Therefore, if you are unable to maintain the soil around the seedlings in a moderately moist state, then it would be wiser to avoid spring planting altogether.

When is the best time to plant seedlings: conclusion

When replanting, it is very important to keep the soil ball around the roots.

In most cases it is preferable to do this in the fall, about a month before the actual onset of winter with severe sub-zero temperatures.

when using seedlings with a closed root system or FRESH seedlings with an open root system;
if possible, systematic watering of seedlings after planting.

Not only theory speaks in favor autumn planting. According to one gardener, who has transplanted more than 300 shrubs and trees with ACS over 5 years, the survival rate when planting in the fall is 98%, in the spring - 80%, and in the summer even 50%.
To finally be convinced of the profitability of autumn planting of seedlings, watch a short video.

Caring for seedlings after autumn planting

To prevent mice and hares from gnawing the delicate bark on the tree, you can wrap a net around it

When planting in the fall, you need to make sure that garden rodents cannot reach the seedlings, and also protect the root zone in case of a harsh and windy winter without snow.

One option is to do this as follows:

form a trunk circle of a meter in diameter around a tree or bush;
cut a strip of black non-woven covering material a little more than one meter wide and cover the soil around the plant with it;
lightly sprinkle the ends of the fabric with soil to prevent it from being blown away by the wind;
wrap the trunk of the seedling with a piece of roofing felt 50 by 50 centimeters wide and fasten with twine (instead of roofing felt you can use thick cardboard, nylon tights, plastic bottles, spunbond tape, insulation for pipes made of foamed polyethylene).

As a result of this, you will insulate the root zone, protect the plant bark from the teeth of mice and other toothy creatures, and prevent weeds from growing. In addition, under the “non-fabric” the soil will cool more slowly, which means warm winter(at temperatures above +4 degrees) the seedlings will continue to grow roots.

Tree trunk circles can also be mulched with loose soil or peat (which will also serve as an excellent insulation material), and also covered with spruce branches from rodents.

And finally: to ensure good survival of seedlings, do not forget to pluck off their leaves before planting. If this is not done, then the plants will spend energy not on developing roots, but on feeding the leaves, which will significantly extend the period of their rooting and can even cause their death in harsh winter. By the way, about how to choose and plant correctly berry bushes, I wrote, be sure to read it!

Many experienced gardeners plant fruit trees in both autumn and spring with equal success. It is believed, however, that autumn planting fruit trees suitable mainly for southern regions, for Siberia and the Urals (there are freshly planted plants from severe winter frosts protected by solid snow cover). For the northern and central regions, spring planting is more suitable - in as a last resort, the trunks of the seedlings are strengthened, hilling them up for the upcoming wintering.

When to plant?

The main rule of planting is that it should be carried out during the dormant period. In spring, this is the time from soil thawing to the beginning of active sap flow, in autumn, after leaf fall, during preparation for winter sleep. The second dormant period lasts longer, and this is already a point in favor of autumn planting.

In spring, this is the time from soil thawing to the beginning of active sap flow; in autumn, after leaf fall, during preparation for winter sleep.

But usually the choice of gardeners is influenced by the fact that in the fall the range of seedlings offered by nurseries is much richer than in the spring, and the prices are usually more attractive. But buying seedlings in the fall and leaving them in storage until spring doesn’t make much sense - the climate in last years unpredictable, and abnormally warm, and abnormally Cold winter could be fatal for such a winter.

toliam1 FORUMHOUSE Consultant

Both my clients and I plant everything only in the fall. Winter is far away, the seedlings have time to get comfortable in the soil, warm winter Root growth is also possible. And in the spring we immediately “go into battle”. When planting in spring, one season is lost.

What to plant?

Planting trees in autumn has its own characteristics. For it, it is better to choose 1-2 year old seedlings with mature shoots - this increases the likelihood that the plant will survive the winter better. The shoots of the seedling along the entire length should be lignified, with fully formed buds.

Three-year-old seedlings are sold less frequently, but this is for the better: at this age, the apple tree already has fairly decent roots, and when the plant is dug up for sale, they have to be cut down heavily. That is, serious wounds are inflicted on the tree, and it takes root much worse.

LuLyu User FORUMHOUSE

The older the apple tree, the longer and thicker its roots, the more wounds are caused during digging.

Zoned and winter-hardy varieties of fruit trees, for example, Siberian and Ural selection, are suitable for autumn planting.

How well the plant takes root depends on the condition of the root system. Unfortunately, many have encountered the fact that plum or cherry seedlings froze even during transportation to the dacha, because their absorbent roots do not tolerate temperatures well, already +3 - +4 degrees. Unlike seedlings with ACS, seedlings with a closed root system practically do not suffer during planting (in essence, this is the same transshipment, and often the plants hardly even notice it). But seedlings with ZKS must be of high quality: the root system is tightly held in a coma of earth, but does not entwine it around, the seedling is not removed from the container easily and freely. Unfortunately, it also happens that the seller does not grow the seedling in a container, but places it there before planting.

Tatuniki User FORUMHOUSE

When buying a seedling with ZKS, you should check whether it grew in a pot or whether it was pushed there before selling.

If you are not sure about the quality of such a seedling, it is better to buy good seedling with OKS.

The optimal time for planting a fruit tree in the fall is two, or better yet, three weeks before frost. Depending on the region, this could be either the end of September or the end of October. During the "rest period" aboveground part the tree stops growing, but the roots grow until the soil temperature is higher than +4 degrees. It turns out that if you guess the planting date, then before the onset of frost, the new trees in your garden will have time to grow absorbent roots. This means that in the spring they will begin to grow earlier than those planted in the spring, and they will meet the traditional spring vagaries of the weather already stronger.

If the roots of the seedling are dry, you will need to keep them in water for a day before planting.

How to plant?

User FORUMHOUSE Tamara Nikolaev plants fruit trees according to all the rules of horticultural science: with an assistant, in well-prepared holes measuring 1.5x1.3. On average, the sizes of planting holes are usually as follows:

For trees on vigorous rootstocks:
120x80 cm (apple and pear trees),
100x60 cm (plums and cherries).
For semi-dwarf and dwarf:
80x50 cm.
The pit for a seedling with a ZKS should be twice as large as the container.

To protect against spring waterlogging, Tamara pours 30-40 cm of expanded clay at the bottom of the pit and prepares the soil in advance:

-3 buckets of rotted manure;
- 1 bucket of “native” soil;
- 2 buckets of good plant soil.

Any trees can be planted in such soil, and in the first year there will be no need to feed them. When preparing the soil, you need to forget the phrase “ nitrogen fertilizers- and we remember that these include chicken and other bird droppings. In general, fertilizers must be applied very carefully when planting, as they can burn the roots. You can separate them from the roots with a layer neutral soil, or you can not apply it at all - wait until the trees “come to life” and apply it to the punctures. Sometimes it is recommended to add peat - FORUMHOUSE experts say that it acidifies the soil, so before adding it, it will definitely need to be deoxidized.

Tamara does the planting this way: she pours expanded clay onto the bottom of the hole and levels it out; Add the prepared soil to a third of the hole on top, compact it, pour it with water, pour the dry soil into a mound, and carefully spread the roots over it.

The root collar of the planted seedling should be located exactly at soil level, not deeper or higher. .

Place a board on top of the hole and check the level of the root collar - it should be located EXACTLY at the level of the board. That is, the root collar of a planted seedling should be located exactly at soil level, not deeper and not higher. .

LuLyu User FORUMHOUSE

Look at the place where the trunk ends and the roots begin. This transition point between the trunk and the roots should be at ground level. Strictly.

If the root collar is located high, the roots will be exposed, and over time the apple tree will dry out. If you bury it, it will constantly get wet and rot. Such a tree will turn green and even bloom, but you will not get fruit from it.

After checking the level of the root collar, an assistant fills the hole with prepared soil and compacts it, then, regardless of the weather (let the soil settle quickly), the tree is well watered, tree trunk circles are formed and mulched with peat.

Let's go back to the root collar again. Beginning gardeners often confuse it with grafting. There is a gardening trick: take a damp cloth and rub it on the seedling where the root meets the trunk. You will see a place where the brown root meets the greenish trunk. This is exactly the place we are talking about.

When planting seedlings, it is important how the level is located on your site groundwater, and what is the composition of the soil. If the groundwater level is close, the roots of your young trees may end up in the water. In principle, this can be avoided.

Planting trees and shrubs is one of the most important operations in their cultivation. In many ways, it depends on it whether the seedlings will turn into beautiful plants or take on a pitiful appearance, or even die. Let's look at the reasons that determine the success of planting and transplantation.

Of primary importance are: choosing a planting site and healthy seedlings adapted for this climate zone; competent execution planting work V optimal timing; proper aftercare.

Time to board

In spring you should hurry: When leaves begin to unfurl on the shoots of seedlings, their survival rate decreases sharply. Therefore, the spring planting boom is rapid and fleeting. More measured and thorough autumn period landings. It is not profitable for nurseries to leave seedlings in the fields, so in the fall the range of planting material is the richest and there is an opportunity to choose the best.

landscaping of territories

We are talking about seedlings with an open root system freed from the ground. In this state in dry weather they can be on outdoors no more than 15 minutes, after which the most delicate root endings (the basis of the root system), which absorb water, begin to dry out and die. Therefore, purchasing planting material with an open root system, you need to take care in advance to protect it from drying out and stock up on suitable containers.

Helpful advice

For small plants, you can use boxes (preferably plastic ones with small ventilation holes), for medium-sized plants, garbage bags measuring from 20 to 40 liters are good, for large seedlings you should purchase a double box. plastic film up to 1.5 m wide.

Upon arrival at the planting site, seedlings should be buried as quickly as possible.

To do this, you need to prepare a ditch with one vertical and the other inclined wall (at an angle of 30°), where the seedlings are laid, and their roots are sprinkled with earth.
The seedlings remain in the dig until planting; after they are removed, the roots cannot be left open for more than 15 minutes.
Buried seedlings can be stored for quite a long time without losing their viability.

It is better to plant shrubs in the fall, and trees in the spring. This rule is based on the fact that shrubs planted in early autumn (during September) have time to take root in a new place before the winter cold, but trees do not have time and are damaged by frost in winter. Therefore, it is better to leave tree seedlings in storage until spring.

It is best to purchase and transport seedlings with an open root system in cool, cloudy or even rainy weather.

Selection of seats

First you need to assess the conditions in which the planted plants will develop:

sunny or shaded;
waterlogged or dry;
with rich clay or poor sandy soils.

This will allow you to determine the assortment of trees and shrubs, and having established the sizes of these areas, make a calculation required quantity planting material.

The most common mistake is to fit too tight. The reason for this is ignorance of what size the plant reaches in adulthood. An authoritative specialist in Europe, Dr. D.G. Hessayon recommends making the following calculations when designing seats:

Rice. 1. Calculation of the distance between tree planting sites

For most trees (except columnar trees) you need to add the heights of adult trees A and B and divide the resulting sum by two - this will be the optimal distance between the centers of the planting holes (Fig. 1).

Rice. 2. Calculation of the distance between shrub planting sites

For most shrubs you should add the height of adult bush A and adult bush B and divide the resulting sum by three (Fig. 2).

Trees:

prickly spruce (typical form) – up to 25 m (80 years);
English oak – up to 25 m (100 years);
sycamore maple (holly leaf) – up to 20 m (60 years);
Tatarian maple – up to 9 m (20 years);
riverine maple (Ginnala) – up to 6 m (15 years);
large-leaved linden – up to 25 m (80 years);
Siberian larch – up to 25 m (80 years);
white willow (silver) weeping form - up to 20 m (80 years);
Norway willow – up to 8 m (20 years);
five-stamen willow – up to 12 m (30 years);
willow brittle spherical shape - up to 10 m (30 years).

Shrubs:

common hazel – up to 3 m (10 years);
European euonymus – up to 2.5 m (10 years);
sea buckthorn – up to 5 m (10 years);
privet – up to 3 m (8 years);
mock orange - up to 3 m (10 years).
Potentilla (Kuril tea) – 0.4–0.9 m (5 years);
rhododendron – 2 m (5 years);
Japanese spirea – 0.6 m (5 years);
Spiraea Bumold – 0.15–1.5 m (5 years).

The wide range of heights of small shrubs is associated with the presence of large number decorative forms and specially bred varieties).

You can set the height of trees at any age you are interested in, for example, 10, 20 or 40 years, using regional growth tables used in forest management.

Preparation of planting holes

The dimensions of the planting holes must correspond to the characteristics of the plant root systems. Nevertheless, even in trees such as English oak and Scots pine, whose skeletal roots go into the soil to a depth of 5–6 m, the bulk (up to 90%) of small suction roots are located in the upper 40-centimeter layer. Therefore, even when planting large trees with a clod, the depth landing pit rarely reaches 1 m, and most often it is 60–80 cm.

It is much more important for plants to have the opportunity to develop lateral roots, which, constantly branching, develop the upper, nutrition-rich and well-aerated layers of the soil horizon. These layers are home to a huge number of soil bacteria (up to 5 million per 1 cm3) and fungi, without whose vital activity plant roots cannot exist. Therefore, the width of the landing pit should be made as large as possible, within reasonable limits.

Under separately standing trees and bushes, and when planting in groups, separate holes are dug for each plant, and trenches are prepared to create hedges and borders.

Digging a hole:

1. The turf is cut through with a bayonet shovel - upper layer soil along the perimeter of the future pit, which should be at least 1 m for trees, and 60 cm for large shrubs.

2. The top fertile layer of soil is removed along with the turf and placed on one side of the hole.

3. The underlying soil horizon, which differs from the upper one in humus content (color) and mechanical composition, is dug up. In some cases it is lighter (sandy), and most often it is heavy – loamy. There will be much more soil from the underlying horizon, and it is piled on the other side of the pit.

4. The walls of the pit are made vertical, the bottom is loosened to a depth of 15–20 cm.

5. On soils underlain by heavy loams, it is necessary to install drainage systems that drain water that accumulates from precipitation and spring snow melting from the bottom of the pits.

Fig.3 Digging a hole

Trenches are dug in compliance with the same rules, only water is drained into the general drainage system should be done in the lowest place along its length, and in cases where there is no natural slope, it should be created by a slight increase in the depth of excavation.
For planting hedges Even from the largest shrubs or small conifers (for example, western thuja) or deciduous trees (for example, Ussuri pear), it is quite enough to dig a trench 60 cm deep.
For medium sized shrubs(brilliant cotoneaster, privet, wrinkled rose) the trench depth should be 40–50 cm.
For creating borders of small shrubs(Japanese spirea, S. birch-leaved, low-growing forms of S. Bumolda, shrubby cinquefoil and many others) it is enough to dig a trench 30–35 cm deep.

The width of the trench depends on the size of the plants being planted and the planting pattern:

For single-row planting of trees, it should reach 40–50 cm.
For medium-sized plants - from 30 to 40 cm.
For small shrubs - from 20 to 30 cm (i.e. the width of a shovel).
When laying two-row hedges, the width of the trench doubles.

____________________________________________________________________

There are several ways to plant trees and shrubs, of which we will consider the two most different in their technology. This is a planting with a bare and closed root system.

Planting with an open root system

Pre-prepared holes should be filled one-third with soil mixture immediately after digging. The fertile layer of soil with turf folded on one side of the hole should be lightly crushed with a shovel and placed on the bottom.

On the other side of the pit we have less fertile soil from deeper soil horizons that need to be improved. If this soil is heavy loamy, then it is necessary to add the same amount of sand to it, if sandy - the same amount of loam (as loam it is best to use turf soil, or bottom silt of lake sediments, or any soil of heavy mechanical composition).

Then you should add 2-3 parts of organic humus (peat, leaf, grass, compost or lowland peat). High-quality humus is dark brown, almost black in color. All these components must be thoroughly mixed with the addition dolomite flour or slaked lime and complete mineral fertilizer.

Earth mixture: 3 parts organic humus, 1 part loam, 1 part sand, 0.5 parts dolomite flour (or 0.2 parts slaked lime) with complete mineral fertilizer, best complex (“Kemira” or “Aquarin”). Fill the planting hole to approximately 1/3 of its depth. Leave the rest of the soil mixture on the surface until planting begins.

Before planting, you need to prepare a sufficient amount of water.

The seedlings removed from the digging are placed in the center of the hole in such a way that their roots, without bending or resting against the walls of the hole, diverge evenly in different directions. If the roots are too long, they are trimmed with pruning shears or chopped with an ax on a wooden block.

It is necessary to ensure that the root collar of the plants is located above the surface of the soil, for which purpose it is selected or added to it from a hole filled 1/3 of the way. required amount soil mixture. In order to ensure the most even distribution of the roots at the desired level, a tubercle is arranged in the hole on which the roots are laid out (Fig. 4).

Rice. 4. Properly planted seedling

After installing the seedling, the soil mixture is filled into the hole to approximately 2/3 of its total depth, covering most root system of the plant. Then it is poured a large number of water. Filling must be continued until the water level reaches 2/3 of the depth of the planting hole, after which the hole is finally filled with dry soil mixture.

All this time the seedling must be maintained in vertical position, slightly supporting and pulling it up. To ensure that when shrinking the root collar of the seedling does not end up below the soil surface level, the hole is filled 15–20 cm above this level.

The planting method described above practically guarantees the survival of plants, since the liquid formed in the area where the roots are located envelops their lobes, ensuring contact of the suction root hairs with soil aggregates.

With all other planting methods, including the most common dry planting followed by abundant watering, the efficiency of seedling establishment is much lower due to weaker contact of the root endings with the soil and the formation of air sacs in the area where the roots are located.

In addition, when pouring water directly into the holes, the formation of dirt around the planting site is eliminated, which cannot be avoided when watering from above.

Finally, a planting mound is formed around the annular roller, which will retain water in the root zone during watering.

It is also useful to mulch the surface of the mound with peat compost or other material in order to prevent the formation of a crust on the soil surface, causing disruption of its aeration, as well as to slow down the evaporation of moisture.

Planting with a closed root system

Seedlings with a closed root system can be planted almost throughout the year. Of course, in a snowy winter no one will plant small and medium-sized plants, but for large-sized trees winter planting with a frozen lump for a long time remained the only method widely used in Russian practice.

The technology for planting container seedlings is quite simple and is fundamentally not much different from the planting of seedlings with an open root system described in detail above. Therefore, taking it as a basis, we will consider the specific features of planting container plants.

Firstly, You should know that soil (soil mixture) is included in the list of quarantine materials prohibited for transportation across state borders, and therefore, for the official delivery of seedlings from abroad, they are placed in containers with peat or other material permitted for transportation that is completely unsuitable for further growth of these plants. Such seedlings must be removed from the containers as quickly as possible and planted in a permanent place in open ground or containers with a normal soil mixture.

In recent years, organizations involved in the supply of seedlings from abroad have established a process for re-boring planting material at their bases, and, as a rule, plants with a good soil mixture in containers go on sale.

However, there are cases of direct deliveries.

Therefore, before purchasing a plant in a container, you should make sure that the mixture is of high quality in case you have to keep it in it for 2-3 weeks before planting it in a permanent place.

Immediately before planting, the seedling must be carefully removed from the container. If the roots come out of the coma and curl along the walls of the container, they must be cut with repeated vertical movements of a sharpened knife along the entire circumference of the coma or cut several shallow slits in the coma triangular shape along its lateral surface.

Further operations are not much different from planting seedlings with an open root system:

first, the soil mixture is poured into the planting hole so that the surface of the ball placed on it protrudes 5–10 cm above the soil level;
then water is poured into the hole and the dry soil mixture is backfilled and tamped into the gap between the lump and the edge of the planting hole along its entire perimeter.

In conclusion, we can recommend for better survival of seedlings planted using the two methods described above: use root formation stimulants, the most famous of which is Kornevin. Working solutions are prepared at the rate of 0.0001% concentration. Solutions of higher concentrations can lead to burns of root tissues and their death.

Consolidation

In places natural growth trees are supported by roots that tightly cover a large volume of soil space. The seedlings lack such support, so after planting they need to be secured.

Planted shrubs usually stay in the soil quite well, since their shoot system has a low center of gravity. The center of gravity of trees is much higher, so young trees need to be secured after planting.

Plantings are strengthened using supports:

for seedlings with an open root system, one support is sufficient, which is driven into the bottom of the hole 10–15 cm from its center before planting.
seedlings planted in a lump are best strengthened with a pyramid of three supports.
for large seedlings, the only fastening system that does not interfere with the proper development of the tree is a safety

Planting large trees

It should be noted right away that planting and replanting large mature trees is a labor-intensive process. It requires large material costs. However, it is very popular due to the quick achievement decorative effect green areas.

Large trees with a height of 2.5 to 4.5 m can be planted or transplanted on your own using small-scale mechanization.
Planting trees above 4.5 m requires special machinery and equipment, so it is better to contact companies that specialize in this type of activity.

As mentioned above, winter transplant big trees with a frozen lump gives in most cases positive results. However, it should be carried out in stable frosts of at least 10–15 o C.

Spring replanting (before leaves bloom) most favorable for large trees, but its duration is very short. Soil frozen in winter makes it difficult to dig up plants intended for replanting. When it thaws, it becomes necessary to pack the lump in a special container to give it strength.

Period autumn transplant lasts quite a long time, from the moment the leaves fall until the establishment low temperatures. This allows you to carry out work in large volumes. In case of persistent moderate frosts in the fall, it is possible to replant trees with freezing of the coma. At the same time, there is no need to pack the lump in a special container, which significantly reduces the cost of work. In autumn, you need to take into account that planted trees need insulation of the root system for the winter.

It is important to know

All species that shed their leaves in late autumn (pyramidal poplar, white acacia, black alder, winter forms of oak) do not withstand autumn replanting well, and it is better to plant them in the spring.

Summer transfer trees in leafy state are the most risky. It requires protecting trees from the effects high temperatures and direct sunlight.

The following tree species tolerate replanting satisfactorily in adulthood:

deciduous: linden, poplar, maple, horse chestnut, ash, oak (preferably red), apple, pear, plum, rowan, and in the south - mulberry;
conifers: spruce (preferably prickly), fir, thuja, juniper.

Birch, pine and elm trees do not tolerate transplantation well in adulthood.

Caring for transplanted large trees should be especially careful and continue for two to three years after planting.

Selection of planting material

In the nurseries of Western and Central Europe, the cultivation of seedlings whose root systems are enclosed in containers is well established. Technological process, starting from cuttings or sowing seeds and ending with obtaining finished products, meeting the standards, worked out in detail and brought to perfection.

Our nurseries, located in colder climates, were unable to compete with them due to the enormous costs of covering container plants in winter time. Due to this Russian manufacturers were forced to switch to purchasing cheaper products abroad for the purpose of selling or growing them. They invest the profit received from this into something suitable for our climatic conditions growing plants in open ground.

If you dream about flowering trees spring and a rich harvest in the fall (which, however, will have to wait a couple of years), then planning a beautiful orchard should begin by studying the rules for choosing and the nuances of planting fruit trees. Today Elena Mironova, leading designer of the Bastet studio, will talk about the most important, in her opinion, moments.

General director and leading designer of the Bastet studio. She studied interior design at the International School of Design. Has been involved in interior design for more than 10 years. Considers work to be a calling. Loves non-standard, complex tasks that require full dedication and concentration.

Should I plant in spring?

It's no secret that spring, like autumn, is the traditional time for planting. However, gardeners have divided opinions about when it is best to plant fruit trees: some argue that optimal time plantings are in autumn, while others are in spring.

Of course, both options are possible if the most important condition is met: the seedlings must be in hibernation (as is known, the hibernation period in plants lasts from the moment the leaves fall until the buds open).

But still, for Central Russia with its cold winters it is preferable spring planting. It is also supported by the fact that young trees are much less likely to freeze, unlike those planted in the fall, and that in the spring, young seedlings are not such a tasty prey for rodents as during the first autumn frosts and snowfalls, and the fact that Trees planted in spring will have more time for growth and development for the whole warm season.

Of course, spring planting also has minuses: a strict upper time limit (if a seedling is planted too late, it will be problematic to get it out) and frequent, unlike autumn, watering. However, when choosing a planting time, there is one simple rule: the further north your site is, the more arguments in favor of spring planting and vice versa.

Should be planted exclusively in spring heat-loving plants , such as: cherries, plums, sweet cherries, apricots, cherry plums, and non-winter-hardy varieties of pears.

As practice shows, seedlings with closed root system(with a voluminous lump of earth): gardeners are less likely to damage the roots when planting, and such plants can be planted until mid-June. Seedlings with open root system, on the contrary, it is necessary to plant strictly before the buds begin to swell and without delaying too much - it’s better immediately after purchasing, so that the tree does not have time to dry out.

Planting fruit trees in spring: where to get seedlings?

This is the second, if not the first question that arises.

Alas, the choice of seedlings in large nurseries - both in variety and quality - is wider in the fall. In the spring, nurseries mostly sell off autumn leftovers, which means that the likelihood of choosing a strong and healthy tree, and of the desired variety, is significantly reduced. But there is no need to be discouraged. If the idea of starting a garden of fruit trees did not suddenly occur to you (you have been nurturing it for some time), then you can purchase planting material in the fall or even arrange at the nursery so that the employees reserve trees of the desired varieties for you in the spring.

But it’s better not to buy seedlings from large garden hypermarkets. Alas, in such places everything is focused on the number of sales, and often at the time of purchase, plants that seemed healthy (but in fact were simply overfed with fertilizers) begin to wither and die literally after a few days.

What to look for when purchasing?

If you still choose seedlings yourself, you should remember the following:

the seedling must be smooth and without flaws;
it should not show any signs of disease;
if the seedling is sold in a container, the roots should not grow through the drainage holes;
any damage to the roots is unacceptable. Dried roots also indicate that the plant is not viable;
earthen lump - again, not overdried! – must be the same volume as the crown of the tree;
leaves on the seedling should be completely absent.

How to plant?

When thinking about planting fruit trees, do not forget that planting plan should not contradict the general concept landscape design plot. It is not at all necessary to place all the trees in one place; you can picturesquely “scatter” them around the site. But to take into account all the nuances, it is better to consult with an experienced landscape designer.

And of course, the planting plan should be thought out in advance. Here it is important to keep in mind the composition of the soil, the illumination, and the distance between the trees (in different species and varieties of fruit trees, both the crown and the root system grow differently, which must be taken into account, otherwise mature tree may interfere with neighbors).

The landing algorithm itself is easy to find on the Internet or other sources. Let us dwell separately on some nuances spring plantings, which gardeners often forget about.

Do not use for fertilizer under any circumstances. fresh manure- he will burn root system plants. The best option here is last year’s manure, fermented or compost. You can also use store-bought manure-based fertilizers.
When you cover the roots with soil, do not forget to straighten them, and also shake the seedling periodically so that voids do not form under the roots.
The roots should not remain on the surface, but you should not deepen the plant too much. The best option, when the root collar of the seedling (the place where the plant trunk meets the roots) is at ground level.
It is better to fix the support for the seedling until the plant is planted, so as not to damage the roots. Just drive it into the bottom of the hole, and then place the tree so that the support is on its northern side - this way it will also protect the young bark of the tree, which is not accustomed to the bright sun. Remember that the upper limit of the support should be below the beginning of the growth of the branches.
If the place chosen for planting the tree is damp, add a mound of soil before planting to prevent rotting of the roots.

The most important The thing to remember is that skill comes with experience. Of course, you are unlikely to get by completely without mistakes, especially if you are planting a garden for the first time. In this case, before starting work, it is better to consult with experienced gardener or a landscape designer, which is even preferable: a specialist will examine your idea from all sides and find weak spots in it that you most likely do not notice yourself.

In any case, even if you have no one to consult with, do not under any circumstances give up the dream of your own orchard. Draw a planting plan on paper, write down separately everything that may be important, carefully analyze your plan again and go for it! You will definitely succeed.

Planting fruit trees in spring video:

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Photos: agrus.ua, 3topolya.ru, homestead-honey.com, koffkindom.ru, newsstand.clemson.edu