Properly plant fruit trees. Planting fruit trees and shrubs. Transportation of fruit plants

Tomatoes come from Peru, where the climate is very hot and dry. How to provide native conditions for tomatoes in our climate? For example, I grow them in open ground, and the summers are cool and it rains very often. At the same time, I want the bush to bear fruit until the fall and produce fruit, as they write on the bag of seeds - 10 kg per bush. To provide this southerner comfortable conditions and, accordingly, you get a big harvest, you need to be able to form the bush correctly.

Quite often, gardeners want to get the plants they like without special expenses. The first thing that comes to mind in such cases is cuttings. What if you are a beginner or a “lazy” gardener? Or do you come to your summer cottage only on weekends, and only every other time, and still want to relax there? Then the idea with cuttings may not succeed. Why not give nature the opportunity to do almost all the work for us - propagate our favorite plants by layering?

My strawberry beds have been around for ten years. Naturally, I update the bushes. Previously, when May and June were dry, I removed two buckets from my “plantation” delicious berries and another half a bucket of berries covered with gray rot. If the beginning of summer was rainy, then I got two buckets of gray rot and only half a bucket of ripe strawberries. It's a shame to share the harvest with some rot! I started an attack on this bullshit. So, step by step - why my strawberries never get gray rot.

Sponge cakes with dates are incredibly tasty, slightly crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, and the sweet date in these baked goods becomes like chocolate. This simple dessert for tea is very easy to prepare in 30 minutes (along with baking), the only important thing is to plan everything correctly, so follow my recommendations. To work, you will need silicone, metal or paper muffin tins, since the dough for these biscuits is fluid, and without a mold it spreads.

IN middle lane July has traditionally always been the hottest month of the year, but in Lately this is not always the case. Sometimes May is hotter than July, and sometimes even September. But many plants traditionally open their flowers in July. And even if the weather is not the warmest, July is the most colorful and colorful month in the garden. In mid-summer, almost all annual flowers traditionally bloom, including those sown in open ground.

For the vast majority of my friends, the idea of “not digging” sounds completely outlandish. But to be honest, my husband (also of the old agrotechnical variety) looks with pain at the undug beds. Although everything grows and bears fruit beautifully on them. Therefore, in the spring, I allow him to dig up something, so as not to radically change his worldview. We are gradually learning: sudden changes in habits are not for everyone. I will share my experience of farming “without a shovel”.

Cucumber salad with onions and garlic is an excellent addition to a complex side dish or an independent vegetable appetizer for festive table, which is very easy to prepare for the winter in large quantities. The recipe is designed for a liter jar, so it is convenient to prepare and store vegetables in small kitchen in a city apartment. This sweet and sour pickled cucumber salad is stored at room temperature far away from heating devices in a dark and dry place.

Alyssum is one of the easiest cushion plants to grow. garden plants. And definitely one of the most fragrant. The charming cloud of honey over the lace of alyssums can be enjoyed not only in parks and gardens. After all, even those who do not have their own garden can grow alyssums at home - and not only on balconies. Although slightly changing its character, alyssum nevertheless remains a non-capricious and quite hardy plant. But you still have to take care of it carefully.

Noodle casserole with sausages and green beans is a great idea for breakfast or dinner. The dish turns out to be satisfying and will give you energy in the morning or replenish lost calories in the evening. The ingredients are simple, and so is the cooking process. Pasta casseroles can be savory - with vegetables, meat, sausages or sausage, and sweet - with dried fruits, cream and various spices. Sweet casseroles are served for dessert. This dish can be prepared from any pasta.

You can prepare an endless number of not only tasty, but also nutritious dishes with mushrooms; mushrooms are dried and preserved for the winter. It is not surprising that closer to autumn, amateurs and professionals of “silent hunting” en masse go out to pick mushrooms in the nearest (and not so close) forest. At the same time, the number of poisonings caused by these forest products is sharply increasing. We’ll tell you in this article how to protect yourself from trouble when going into the forest to pick mushrooms, and how to avoid becoming a victim of low-quality mushrooms.

As a child, I was delighted with the fairy tale where main character deftly escaped pursuit. He stuck branches from a bush into the ground, and a dense, impenetrable green forest immediately grew behind him. I have been experimenting with twigs since I was four years old. So, summer cuttings are a great opportunity to get a young seedling of the desired variety. The procedure is simple, quick, and almost always even beginners succeed. Unsuccessful cuttings are associated with obvious neglect of its basic principles.

Strawberry jam with pectin is quick and easy to prepare. Apple pectin(pectin powder) in industrial scale obtained from apple pomace. Pectin is added to many common products - in the filling of sweets, ketchup, marshmallows, marshmallows and marmalade. At home, pectin is used to make jam or jam as a thickener. Adding pectin powder can significantly reduce cooking time, which means preserving more vitamins.

Country life cloudless and beautiful only to the eyes of an inexperienced city dweller. Any gardener will confirm that there is an eternal battle here, we only dream of peace. Not a flood - so drought, not cold - so heat. Before you have time to deal with the next sore, it’s time to fight pests. And their darkness! But we still need to look for such an unpleasant comrade as a slug. A small, slippery insect, feeding on young leaves and fruits, causes great harm.

No matter how modest the dacha or garden plot may be, there is always a place for cucumbers. Experienced housewives They will definitely find the time to wrap up a few jars of their cucumbers for the winter. Moreover, with minimal care and compliance with agricultural technology, you can grow excellent harvest. In this case, only organic fertilizers. What they are, how to prepare them at home and use them correctly, you will learn from this article.

Pelargonium "Pinto Scarlet Star F1" is distinguished by early and abundant flowering, has large flowers with a gradient color from coral along the edges to white in the center, which look very beautiful against the background of emerald-colored leaves. Pelargonium pleases the eye for a very long time: plant growers note that flowering continues until the coldest weather. Tall (up to 40 cm) bushes are suitable for planting in flower beds, flowerpots and balcony boxes.

Summer residents and gardeners take a responsible approach to the issue of selection and planting fruit trees. This position is completely justified, because planting a tree is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. The quality of the future harvest directly depends on this. Let's figure out when to plant trees - in spring or autumn, and consider the advantages and disadvantages of spring planting.

Purchasing seedlings

The first thing you need to start with is to buy a young tree for planting. Eat different variants where this can be done. It would be best if you go to make a purchase at a specialized store or nursery.

In addition, there are many offers to buy seedlings from hand at spontaneous markets, and also, not so long ago, online stores began to provide a huge selection of planting material. The last two options do not give any results because there is a risk of ending up with something that is not what you expect.

Correct choice of planting material

So, you went to a garden exhibition or a specialized nursery to select seedlings. How not to get confused among all the variety, how to choose a quality one planting material?

First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence of clothespins. Any fruit tree must be grafted, otherwise it is simply wild growth, of no value and without varietal characteristics.

Next you need to inspect the roots. It is desirable that they grow evenly on all sides of the trunk and do not have visible damage or lump-like growths. The bark should not be limp, dry or wrinkled. Before selling seedlings, all their leaves are removed to avoid dehydration of the tree.

Anything, even annual plant prepared for planting must have a height of at least one meter. Make sure that the trunk of the seedling is evenly developed.

Now you have learned to choose and are ready to start planting, but the question arises: when? Planting fruit trees in spring or autumn is entirely your choice. Optimal time landing can be determined by many factors.

When to plant trees, spring or autumn?

The very first rule is that trees should be planted when they are dormant. This happens in the fall, after active growth has stopped, and in early spring- until sap flow begins. But another question immediately arises. When to plant trees in the spring, and when is it better to give preference to autumn plantings?

Firstly, it depends on climatic conditions your region. In the northern regions and the middle zone, planting seedlings in the spring gives the best results. In autumn, young trees here can freeze slightly. In places with sufficient snow cover, seedlings planted in autumn are protected from freezing by a layer of snow.

Secondly, the optimal planting time can be determined by the type of seedlings. Some crops tolerate spring planting better, while others, on the contrary, tolerate autumn planting.

What are the best trees to plant in spring?

Many people are interested in what trees are planted in the spring? The answer is simple. Almost all fruit trees can be planted in spring. There are cases when spring planting is the only possible variant. Some winter-hardy pears, plums, and apple trees are doomed to death if planted in the fall. It is also advisable to plant sea buckthorn, cherry and apricot in the spring.

When to plant trees in spring

We should start with the fact that we need to prepare for spring in the fall. You can select a location in advance, dig a pit, and enrich the soil with natural fertilizers. Important point- don’t miss the time when it’s best to plant trees in spring.

Beginning gardeners begin planting young shoots with the onset of warm days, but they make a huge mistake. In order for young plants to take root, they should be rooted in a new place as soon as the snow melts, but keep in mind that the ground should not be frozen by this time.

Plants should be stopped at least a week before buds appear. It is difficult to give specific numbers, as it depends on specific weather conditions.

Benefits of spring tree planting

By planting a tree in the spring, you will have a harvest a year earlier than if planted in the fall.
During the winter, you can properly prepare for spring work, draw up a schedule and work plan.
Some gardening work can be carried out in autumn or winter, for example, preparing fertilizers, forming pits for planting.
When planting in spring, you can almost immediately see which of the seedlings have taken root and are growing normally, and which ones require additional care or replanting.

Why is spring planting problematic?

In the spring, there is less variety on the planting material market than in the fall.
After planting, you will need to water the young seedling more often, protecting it from spring droughts.
It is necessary to clearly select the time when to plant trees in the spring, so that the tree has time to take root before the sap begins to flow.

Features of spring gardening

Inexperienced amateur gardeners believe that the method of planting a tree is the same at any time. In fact, each season has its own characteristics. Let's find out how to properly plant trees in spring.

Trees plant before the weather warms up, so Special attention needs to be turned onto the ground. The soil may not be as soft and pliable as in the fall. To strengthen the adhesion of the roots to the soil, you need to additionally dip them in clay mash. When landing they are used natural fertilizers, for example, manure.

The first time after planting, the plants require careful care. Make sure that the soil does not dry out, try to hide young shoots from overly active sunlight.

In the spring, 5-7 days after planting, you can use growth activators - nitrogen fertilizers that promote the appearance of young shoots in the plant.

In order not to miss the spring planting deadlines, everyone preparatory work should be carried out in the fall.
When choosing a planting site, consider the groundwater level. It shouldn't be too high. It is also not recommended to plant trees in areas where meltwater accumulates.
Be sure to pay attention to the fertility of the soil. Use fertilizer if the soil in the place where you are going to plant the tree is poor.
Tall seedlings must be planted with support. It will protect fragile stems from gusty spring winds.

And most importantly, you need to remember: a tree is Living being and requires a corresponding attitude towards oneself. Young seedlings, like small children, need constant attention and care; if they receive what they need, they will certainly please you with a good harvest.

When considering the purchase of a seedling as an ultra-long-term investment, you should remember that its effectiveness will also depend on the planting location, the quality of planting and subsequent care.

When to plant trees in spring?

Trees can be planted in the fall (after the leaves have fallen), but most gardeners prefer to do it in the spring (before the buds open). The weather at this time is cool, so the plants in the new location will have time to take root before the spring rains and summer heat begin to stimulate active growth aboveground parts.

However, if tree seedlings were grown in a nursery, as well as if they were transported correctly and carefully, they can be planted at any time during the growing season.

At the same time, it is also necessary to remember that correct landing and care is the key to a healthy future for the plant.

It should also be remembered that when digging up a seedling, it may receive the so-called transplant shock, which is expressed in slower growth and weakening of the plant after planting.

Follow these eight simple steps carefully and you can greatly reduce the stress your plant experiences during planting.

The hole for planting a seedling should be shallow, but at the same time wide. Make the hole wide, three times wider than the diameter of the coma or roots of the seedling, but in no case deeper than its height. The width of the hole is important because the roots of the newly planted tree will grow into the surrounding soil. In some areas (after construction), the soil turns out to be compacted and unsuitable for normal root growth. Digging up the soil large area around the tree allows young roots to grow freely into loose soil, which in turn will speed up their establishment.
We determine the location of the root collar (basal thickening of the trunk). The root collar is where the trunk thickens and the first lateral roots begin. This area should be partially visible after planting (see picture). If, before planting, the beginning of the root collar is not visible on a seedling with a ball (or in a container), then you will have to remove some of the soil from above the ball. Otherwise, you will not be able to determine how deep the hole needs to be dug.
Place the tree at the correct height. Before placing a seedling in a hole, check that it has actually been dug to the required depth - but no more! Most of the roots of a newly planted tree will develop in top layer soil 30 cm thick. If the tree is planted too deep, the process of growth and development of new roots will be quite slow. It is much better to plant a tree 5 - 8 cm higher from the original level than at or below the original level. This is explained by the fact that the seedling will subsequently sag approximately this distance (see figure). To avoid damage when installing a seedling in a hole, always lift it by the lump and never by the trunk.
Level the tree in the hole. Before filling the hole, have your assistant look at the tree from several directions (especially from key viewing points) to make sure that the tree is standing straight and facing the desired side towards the viewing points (although some prefer the initial orientation to the cardinal points). During the filling process, moving the tree in the hole will be much more difficult.
Fill the hole carefully but firmly. To fill the hole, use the soil that you removed when digging it. Soil amendments can be used when the existing fertile soil layer is completely disturbed. If there is still a need to add soil, then only soil that is similar in granulometric composition to the existing one should be added. We fill the hole one-third full and carefully but tightly fill the voids around the lump with soil. Next, if the seedling has a lump wrapped in burlap, netting, etc., cut and remove the burlap, metal mesh, strings or wire from the trunk and at least the upper third of the lump (see picture). Try not to damage the trunk and roots. Fill the rest of the hole, thoroughly compacting the soil to eliminate any voids that could cause the roots to dry out. To avoid this, add soil little by little and keep it watered. Continue this process until the hole is completely filled and the tree is stable. It is not recommended to apply fertilizer to the planting hole during planting.
Provide supports if necessary. If the tree is properly grown and dug in the nursery, supports for support in most cases (naturally, excluding large seedlings) are not necessary. Research shows that trees establish themselves faster and develop stronger trunks and root system, if they are not supported during planting. However, in order to protect seedlings from damage by lawn mowers, vandals or being knocked over by the wind, in some situations they are necessary. If props are needed specifically for support, then two pegs are used, comparable in thickness to the trunk of the seedling, together with wide flexible garter material, for example, a canvas sling. This design is able to hold the tree upright, allows some movement and minimizes damage to the trunk (see picture). These supports and strappings are removed after a year of growth of the seedling in a new place.
Mulch trunk circle. Mulch is organic material, crushed to the required fraction and laid out in the required layer on the tree trunk. It acts like protective layer, retains moisture, evens out temperature fluctuations on the soil surface, both up and down, and inhibits growth herbaceous plants, which reduces competition with lawn grasses and weeds. Good mulching materials are forest litter (forest litter), dry straw, chopped bark, peat chips or wood chips. The layer of mulching material should be 5–10 cm. A larger layer reduces the access of oxygen and retains too much moisture. When distributing mulching material around the trunk, make sure that the trunk itself and the root collar are not covered with it, that is, that they remain free. If this condition is ignored, rot may appear on the trunk and root collar. The distance between the mulched surface and the root collar of 3–5 cm is quite enough to avoid this problem.
Provide aftercare. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Overwatering causes leaves to yellow or fall off. Water trees at least once a week and more often when high temperatures. If the soil dries out below the level of the mulch layer, you can water it. Continue watering until fall, reducing frequency and intensity as daytime temperatures drop. Tree care also involves pruning branches damaged during replanting. Try to prune as little as possible during and immediately after planting, delaying any necessary corrective or structural pruning for at least a year after planting in the new location.

After completing these eight simple steps, further care and favorable weather conditions will ensure that your new tree or bush will grow and prosper. A valuable addition to any landscape, trees are a lasting source of beauty and pleasure for people of all ages.

Plant health as an alternative

Maintaining the existing landscape is a complex undertaking. You may need a professional health and plant care program, which many landscaping companies now provide. Such a program is designed to maintain plant health and should initially include regular inspections to identify and correct any existing problems that may result in tree damage or death. Thus, regular inspections and preventive measures will keep the plants healthy and beautiful.

Creating a beautiful fruit-bearing garden on your site is the dream of any gardener. How difficult is this task? Firstly, you need to understand that all fruit trees are perennials, which means that the harvest will not be harvested earlier than in 3-7 years. And only if the tree is planted correctly. In this article we will look at how fruit tree seedlings should be planted and what you need to pay attention to in order to avoid mistakes.

First of all, you need to choose the right place to plant a tree in the garden.

If you decide to plant fruit trees on summer cottage, you need to choose the right place for planting and neighbors for the tree. It is best to make a diagram of the site, where the future location is clearly indicated. fruit crops and all points of the plan for the upcoming work.

First you need to decide on the varieties and types of trees. Then draw up a planting plan, indicating for each species its distinctive characteristics:

what height does the tree reach (to take into account the degree of shade of neighboring crops);
what type of tree crown (to avoid dense plantings);
when a tree bears fruit - early period maturation, medium or late (to ensure proper care).

You also need to include in the diagram the approximate distance between crops in order to avoid close proximity between tall spreading trees and dwarf species(in this case, the latter will begin to wither over time). You can calculate the distance as follows:

Tall and medium tall fruit trees with a wide crown should be located on an area with a perimeter of at least 10 m by 10 m.
Dwarf - 5 m by 5 m.
Columnar crops - 2 m by 2 m.

We should not forget about the correct selection of neighbors, since not all cultures are able to get along peacefully with each other. Here are some recommendations:

Pear, plum, cherry, and quince will get along well next to the apple tree. Bad - cherries and viburnum.
Apple and rowan trees do well next to the pear tree, but it is better to plant plum, viburnum and cherry trees further away.
Cherries and plums grow well next to an apple tree, but far from a pear.

For ease of work and to avoid mistakes, you can transfer the diagram to the plot, and put cards with the name of the crops on each planting place.

Stage two – preparation for landing

At this stage, you need to select seedlings, decide on the planting date and prepare the soil.

The soil

It is important to properly prepare the soil and choose a seedling.

If you decide to remove an old tree and plant a new one in its place, you need to wait at least 2-3 years. You cannot plant a new crop right away, because the soil has not had time to rest, certain substances remain in it that will prevent the new tree from gaining strength.

If the soil on the site is too acidic, you need to add dolomite flour. This can be done throughout the entire site, or only in planting pits.

Landing time

Trees are planted in spring or autumn, depending on the climatic conditions of the region or the type of tree.

Thus, frost-resistant seedlings with average or late period ripening trees (apple trees, cherries, pears) are planted in the fall. Heat-loving and non-frost-resistant trees (apricots, peaches, cherries, early apple trees and pears) - in the spring.

Southern regions

Here, fruit trees are usually planted in the fall, when the leaves from mature trees have already fallen. Warm autumn weather is favorable for the young tree; the root takes root well and produces small roots. They supply the crop with water and nutrients. In this way, the seedling is prepared for wintering, which it tolerates well.

Planting trees in the spring in the southern regions is not recommended, because spring weather is very unstable and can suddenly turn into a hot, dry summer. As a result, the seedling will begin to dry out, and even frequent watering will not save it.

Northern regions

Planting seedlings in the fall in these areas is not accepted, because frosts come early, the soil freezes, which means the roots will not have time to take root.

The best time for planting is in the spring, when the buds begin to bloom and the air temperature rises daily. The tree planted at this time will have time to take root, and during the summer it will grow aboveground part, giving an annual increase. When autumn and winter arrive, the fruit tree will be absolutely ready to safely survive the winter.

Middle lane

Planting crops in these regions can occur both in spring (before buds open) and in autumn (after leaves fall).

Selection of seedlings

When choosing fruit seedlings you need to pay attention to the root system. It happens:

open (it is better to use for planting in the fall to monitor the condition of the roots and trim them if necessary);
closed (more suitable for spring planting, when the ground is warm enough).

The main roots should have many small adventitious roots, which will first begin to take root. Cuts on the roots should be white, or with a pink or yellow tint. But under no circumstances should they be dry - such a tree is not viable. The seedling should be no more than 1-2 years old.

If the seedling is purchased early autumn and there are still leaves on it, they should be torn off. Otherwise, they will evaporate moisture, which will prevent the tree from taking root. Trees purchased in late autumn should be buried in a bag of sand and left until spring.

In the spring, when purchasing, be sure to check whether there are live buds on the branches. It is better not to buy plants with abundant foliage, because it makes no sense to plant them in the same season - the leaves will take moisture from the roots.

The third stage - landing

First of all, prepare the planting holes. It is better to do this 6-8 months before planting. The walls must be steep, loose, standard size– 80 cm by 80 cm. Later, during planting, the size of the hole is adjusted to the roots of the seedling. Next, the hole needs to be filled layer by layer:

peat;
manure;
a mixture of fertilizers and sand.

The layers are filled until a mound 20 cm high is formed on top (the soil will shrink).

The seedling is placed vertically in the prepared hole, carefully distributing the roots on the mound.

The tree is also prepared in advance by immersing it in a solution of a root growth stimulator for 15-20 hours. Before planting, you need to inspect all roots and branches, removing old and broken ones.

Stages of planting fruit trees in the country:

Place drainage at the bottom of the prepared hole (crushed stone, pebbles, branches), covering it with a layer of soil or sand.
Dig up the mixture of soil that was in the hole, then fill it back to form a small mound.
Stick a wooden peg into the center, which will serve as a support for the seedling.
Place a seedling on a mound, straighten the roots and cover it two-thirds with soil, periodically shaking the tree so that the soil fills the voids.
Pour out a bucket of water and let it soak. Then fill the hole with the remaining soil to the edges.
Form small mounds around the perimeter to prevent the water from spreading.
Pour out 2 more buckets of water and mulch the soil, leaving some free space near the trunk.

When sprinkling the tree with soil, you need to monitor the position of the root collar (the place where the stem transitions into the root with a change in color). After the soil shrinks, the collar should be at ground level (the same applies to grafted crops - the graft is located above the root collar and, accordingly, should not end up underground after planting).

If the root system of the seedling is closed, plant it by transferring it from the container along with a lump of earth into a prepared hole.

If the site is located close groundwater, the drainage layer in the pit is made high, up to 40 cm. Next, a high mound is poured, about 70 cm, and strengthened with planks so that it does not spread. Then soil is added, the seedling is planted in the center and sprinkled. This method of planting on a high mound is used if the groundwater is located at a level of 1-1.5 m from the ground.

The rules for planting fruit trees are not so complicated, and if you use all the recommendations, you can grow a good fruit-bearing garden that will delight you for years.

In order to grow a garden of fruit trees on your site, you need not only to decide on the location and plants, but also to take into account the main nuances, such as the planting pattern, the size of the holes, planting and caring for seedlings, which will be discussed in this article.

Garden layout

When a place for planting seedlings has been selected, it is important to decide on a scheme for planting them. It is recommended to plant trees according to four schemes, which have their own characteristics of plant arrangement, simplify the process of caring for seedlings and obtain a bountiful harvest.

The most common planting pattern is quadratic: it allows you to create convenient conditions for caring for the garden. According to this scheme, trees are planted in even rows. The distance between trees depends on their type and variety.

Important! It is also necessary to take into account the planting pattern in order to rationally use the space, so on a square plot it is better to arrange trees according to a quadratic pattern.

If you have been selected dwarf varieties, the optimal distance between rows will be 4 m, between trees you need to leave 2.5 m. Classic views, which were grafted onto a wild rootstock, should be planted at a distance of at least 3.5 m from each other, 5 m between rows. Tall and vigorous species should be 4 m apart, 6 m between rows.

The quadratic planting scheme is suitable for trees that are not demanding on lighting and normally tolerate partial shade created by adjacent rows. This is how apple trees are usually planted different varieties, some varieties of pears.

Chess

The chess pattern is very similar to the quadratic one, only in each square between four trees one more tree is planted. The scheme is more dense, therefore suitable for planting medium-sized plants with a small crown. If the garden is located on a slope, then the checkerboard pattern will be the best option planting trees to reduce soil loss by precipitation.
The checkerboard planting method allows trees to receive the maximum amount of light, therefore it is suitable for light-loving plants - plum, apricot, peach, as well as apple and pear trees. The distance between trees should be 4 m; it is better to leave 5 m between rows.

Planting trees in a triangular pattern is characterized by a denser arrangement of plants with a large crown. According to the triangular scheme, all trees will be level, which will allow planting 15% more plants than according to the quadratic scheme.

To find out the optimal distance between plants, you must follow the rule of doubling the maximum crown width of an adult tree. For example, if the crown width is 4 m, then there should be a distance of at least 8 m between plants on all sides.
Thanks to the triangular planting pattern, plants can receive the maximum amount of light. Cherry, apple, pear, plum, apricot, and peach are suitable for planting with this scheme.

Horizontal scheme

A horizontal planting scheme is used when trees are located on a hilly area. In this case, plants are planted along horizontal lines, which makes it possible to reduce soil erosion processes and successfully grow seedlings on uneven areas. For fruit plantings, choose an elevated area, preferably in the south of the site. Fruit trees must be planted in such a way that the maximum height of the trunks is directed to the north.
Thanks to this arrangement, the plants are provided with the best big amount Sveta. The distance between them in this case should be at least 3 meters, between the rows - at least 5. For planting horizontally Any fruit trees are suitable.

Planting a garden

When the planting scheme has been determined, it is necessary to begin selecting and purchasing seedlings that will then take root on the site.

Selection of fruit crops

In order for plants to bear fruit well, you need to be able to choose them correctly. Therefore, pay attention to the recommended growing region, soil and other conditions. There are special varieties that were bred for each region: they easily tolerate frosty winters, different types of soil, and are less sensitive to adverse weather conditions. Let's consider the basic recommendations for planting trees that thrive in mid-latitudes.

The most popular fruit plant in mid-latitudes is the apple tree. This crop is light-loving, so it is better to plant it in a well-lit area. The apple tree can grow on gray forest soils, soddy-podzolic soils, and chernozems, which have a light mechanical composition with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. The tree does not tolerate excess moisture well, so plant it on small hills, in areas with deep groundwater - at least 1.5 m deep.

Did you know? Apple orchards in the world cover 5 million hectares, and every third fruit tree in the world is an apple tree.

It is recommended to plant the pear on the south side of the site, since areas with harsh winters often cause trees to freeze. The site must be well protected from the wind, which is especially important in winter period. Pear grows well on wet soils, groundwater should be no closer than 1 m to the soil surface. The ideal soil for pears is loamy, sandy loam or slightly podzolic.
Cherries prefer warmer regions with more sunlight and warmth. It is not recommended to plant the seedling in lowlands, since cherries have poor winter hardiness and often freeze out. It is necessary to choose a well-ventilated area - this way you can avoid many tree diseases. As for the soil, cherries prefer fertile soils with a light mechanical composition, characterized by high air permeability. Cherries are planted on light and medium loams, which allows for maximum yield.

Plum also prefers well-lit areas, so it is necessary to plant seedlings on the south side of the site, on a damp clay soil with a thick fertile layer and a neutral reaction. Plum also grows normally in the northern regions, but subject to the basic recommendations for planting and caring for the plant. Apricots grow well in mid-latitudes and subtropics in maximally illuminated areas with plenty of sunlight and heat. Apricot trees must be well protected from northern winds: they can be located on slopes and in places that are inaccessible to cold air.
It is better to plant the tree on light, well-drained soils. Peaches are planted in southern regions with a lot of heat and sunlight, because they are unstable to severe frosts, damaging fruit buds. Peaches grow well on light loams with high breathability and drainage; a prerequisite is high-quality protection from the wind.

How to choose and buy seedlings

It is important not only to choose the right place for planting seedlings, but also the planting material itself, in order to ensure good survival of the tree and get stable results. high yields further.

Important! It is preferable to buy seedlings from nurseries, avoiding markets and other dubious places.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the age of the tree: it is optimal to purchase planting material two years of age, older trees have a low survival rate. Look carefully at the root system of the seedlings - it should be healthy and contain, in addition to skeletal ones, numerous growing roots. Do not buy trees that have knots, thickenings, growths, nodules, or other dubious formations on the roots.
The minimum number of skeletal roots for a two-year-old seedling is 3; it is preferable to choose seedlings that contain more than 3. Do not buy trees that have rough mechanical damage roots created by improper digging. The height of a two-year-old seedling should be at least 1.5 meters; healthy trees contain three lateral branches that are evenly distributed along the trunk. The bark should be smooth and free of any scratches or cracks.

Did you know? Exists interesting method determining the duration of storage of a dug up tree: you need to hold a tree branch between your thumb and forefinger, and if the seedling is fresh, then a slight coolness will emanate from the tree, and if the seedling is dry–you will feel warm.

Preparation of planting holes

Depending on the type of fruit tree landing pit getting ready different sizes And different shapes, but for almost all trees, round pits with steep walls are best suited, which can ensure normal development of the root system. The size of a hole dug in cultivated soil with a deep fertile layer should be about 70 cm in diameter and 70 cm in depth.

If a tree is planted in an area being developed for the first time, the size of the hole will increase threefold, since a sufficient amount of nutrient mixture will need to be added to it, which in the future will serve as a reservoir necessary for normal development. young seedling substances. Heavy clay and sandy soils require digging a hole 1 m in diameter and 1 m in depth. Experienced gardeners It is advised to dig wider and less deep holes in dense clay soil so that water does not stagnate in their lower layers - this will have a detrimental effect on plant roots.
If planting will be done in the spring, then holes must be dug in autumn period the previous year, if planting will be done in the fall, then the hole is dug in May-June. This is necessary so that the fertilizers that have been applied to the soil are well mixed and mature, that is, they form the necessary microbiological environment.

Rules for planting trees

Depending on the type of fruit tree, there are standards for the size of the hole, planting time and other nuances that need to be considered:

Apple trees They are often planted in the spring, if the seedling is not older than 2 years, so that over the summer the tree takes root, grows and survives wintering normally. Spring planting should occur in early May - late April, when the soil has already thawed and warmed up a little. If the seedling will be planted in the spring, the hole can be prepared a week before planting. The size of the hole will depend on the soil: if it is quite fertile, then 60 cm in depth and in diameter will be enough, if the soil is poor, then the depth should be at least 70 cm and the diameter should be 80 cm. Seedlings 3-4 years old can be planted in the fall , since they are no longer afraid of a strong tree winter frosts. It is better to plant in early October so that the roots have time to strengthen before winter. In autumn, it is recommended to plant young trees in the southern regions with fertile soil. The hole is dug the same size as in the case of spring planting, but it is prepared a month before planting.
pear can be planted both in spring and autumn. Spring planting (at the end of April) eliminates the possibility of the tree dying from frost. It is better to prepare the pit in advance, in the fall of the previous year. During this time, the soil will shrink, and after planting the seedling, the root collar will not deepen much, which guarantees normal survival of the plant. The hole should be about a meter wide and about 50 cm deep. If the soil is poor, then dig a deeper hole and fill it with several buckets of fertile soil. As in the case of the apple tree, the pear is planted in the southern regions in the fall, which allows the seedling to take root normally. In addition, a pear that was planted in the fall and survived the winter will be stronger and more resistant to future frosts. Digging a hole better in spring, the size of the hole in depth is 50 cm, diameter is 1 m, and planting should be done in early October.
Apricot in the spring it is recommended to plant before the buds on the seedlings have awakened - in mid-April. The pit is prepared in the fall, it minimum size– 70 cm deep and 70 cm in diameter. Preparing the pit for autumn planting should be carried out a month, or even two. The required width is 1 m and the depth is 80 cm. The optimal time for planting is considered to be the beginning of October.
Cherry It is often planted in the spring (late April), especially in the middle zone and northern regions, since over the summer the seedling grows, becomes stronger and withstands wintering normally. The hole should be dug in advance better in autumn, its depth should be at least 50 cm, diameter - 80 cm. In autumn, planting cherries is practiced only in the southern regions, sometimes in the middle zone. The optimal time for planting is the end of September, so that the tree gets stronger before the first frost hits. The pit is prepared in the spring, the size is the same as in the case of planting in the spring.
Peach is heat-loving plant, therefore, even in the southern regions, planting is carried out in the spring (late April). The pit is prepared in advance, preferably in the fall; the size of the pit should be at least 70 cm in depth and 1 m in diameter.
prefers spring planting in the middle zone and in the northern regions; in the southern regions, planting seedlings is most often practiced in the autumn. In spring, plums are planted at the end of April in a pre-prepared hole. It is better to prepare the pit in the fall, add organic fertilizers to it, which over a sufficiently long period of time will rot and create ideal conditions for a young seedling. The hole should be at least 60 cm deep and 70 cm wide, more is possible. In the fall, at the beginning of October, the plum is planted in a hole that was dug in the spring and fertilized with organic matter, the size of the hole is 60x70 cm.

Did you know?Unlike other fruit trees, plums cannot be found wild in nature. The plum was obtained by crossing sloe and cherry plum more than 2 thousand years ago.

How to care for newly planted trees

When the seedlings are planted in the soil, at first you should pay special attention to regular watering. The frequency of watering depends on weather conditions and regularity of precipitation. The minimum amount of water that needs to be poured under one tree is 20 liters at a time. You need to water once every 2-4 weeks. It is recommended to check the soil for moisture with a stick: if the surface of the soil has dried out by 20 cm, it’s time to water the seedling.

The area around the seedling should be mulched - this is necessary in order to create a favorable environment for the root system, retain moisture in the summer, and slow down the growth of weeds. The mulch is poured in a fairly thick layer (15 cm) at a distance of 1-2 meters from the trunk - sawdust and straw are used. The circle around the trunk is regularly loosened and freed from weeds. It is especially important to loosen the soil after watering, when water compacts it. Loosening is carried out to a depth of no more than 5 cm, so as not to damage the young roots.
Be sure to insulate a young tree for the winter so that it can withstand frost normally. Insulating the trunk will also help protect the bark from attacks by rodents, which gnaw it in winter, which leads to the death of the seedling. The procedure is carried out in early November, tying bottom part trunk spruce branches not less than 70 cm in height. Trees are whitewashed twice a year – in autumn and spring. Autumn whitewashing is carried out on a sunny, not rainy day at the end of September, and spring whitewashing should be carried out during the period of light frosts, when the first insects have not yet appeared.