Blackcurrant next to cherry. Compatibility of trees and bushes. Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs in the garden

The southern fruit apricot is moving further and further north. This happens thanks to the success of breeders and the enthusiasm of our gardeners. Planting apricots in harsh climates is risky, but interesting. How to plant this tree to enjoy the delicious fruits? Let's look at the main issues that arise when planting apricots.

Where is the best place to plant apricots?

A place for planting apricots should not only be chosen as the sunniest one, but more importantly, it should be well protected from cold, especially winter, winds. IN wild conditions Apricot trees often grow on slopes, sometimes quite steep. Our garden plots are usually quite flat, and this is good for us: it is easier to care for a variety of beds. Nevertheless, modern gardening experts advise planting apricots on artificial hills, and mounds should be made on any soil. This artificial hill should be at least 30–40 centimeters high. When choosing a location, you must take into account that apricots can grow for up to 30 years or more.. Apricot grows very poorly in heavy clay soils. The best survival rate and growth are on light loamy soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction.

Apricot planting scheme

Depending on the available space, region and variety, different planting patterns are chosen, and if we are talking about an apricot orchard, trees are usually planted according to a 5 x 5 m pattern and form rounded crowns. But at a summer cottage, these distances may differ slightly.

One of the options for apricot placement in an industrial garden is 5 m between trees and between rows

Distance between seedlings when planting

In conditions industrial production apricot trees are planted according to patterns from 3 x 5 to 5 x 5 m, and in the case of varieties with very tall trees, the distances are even greater. On your own small area It is unlikely that we will plant many apricot trees. Well, unless we live in the south and the plantation is far from 4–6 acres. Therefore, we are talking about a maximum of three copies. And if there are even three of them, it’s one row. The distance between the trees should be left at 3–4 meters, taking into account that in a few years their crowns will still close together.

Some agricultural scientists believe that thickening apricot plantings is even useful: it somehow affects certain “tricky” processes that increase winter hardiness, and they even advise trying to plant trees even more often.

How many trees should be planted on the site?

I don’t want to advise planting more than two trees on six hundred square meters. Mature apricots take up a lot of space and spread their roots very far, sucking out all the nutrition and moisture from neighboring beds. His root system twice as large in diameter as the crown. It is often said that for good pollination you need up to 3 trees. When planting 3 trees at the dacha, after a few years there will be no room left for parsley and cucumbers! From the point of view of pollination, they will find a companion somewhere in the gardens nearby. If in your conditions you like the apricot, then one is enough for the family. And if you don’t like it, it’s easier to buy delicious apricots at the market and not suffer.

Last summer, at a neighbor’s (40 km north of Saratov), ​​for the first time in 10 years, a huge apricot produced a harvest of large, tasty fruits. All the neighbors got 20–25 buckets, and how many more were missing!

What can you plant next to apricot?

The apricot grows into a huge tree, shading everything around and draining the soil many meters away. Therefore, little will grow near it, and this must be taken into account: valuable things for the farm will be lost. square meters. Next to the apricot you can plant low flowers that bloom in early spring (tulips, daffodils, primrose). They, as a rule, vegetate at a time when there is still enough moisture in the soil, and grow in the spring, when there is still no foliage on the tree and there is enough sun.

Early spring flowers are quite appropriate under a tree

Apricot does not like the proximity of raspberries and currants. Apricot generally prefers to live his own life. When planting trees, one must also remember about their predecessors. You should not plant apricots where other stone fruits (plum, cherry, peach) grew.

If old pear trees, oak or ash grow somewhere nearby, that is, trees with deep-penetrating roots, apricot will most likely like the soil. But nothing will grow well within a radius of five meters from it.

When to plant apricot

In the southern latitudes, where apricot lives in its native climate, the question of when to plant apricots does not arise. They do this there both in spring and autumn. The main thing is that the tree is in a dormant state at the time of planting. In the middle zone, planting and further growing apricots creates many problems. They are associated with insufficient winter hardiness of apricot trees. This is partly dealt with by grafting apricot cuttings onto plums or cherry plums, but this does not always solve the problem. Wild apricot trees are also good rootstocks for cultivated apricot varieties: common apricot and Manchurian apricot. Gardeners often grow apricots themselves “from scratch,” using seeds from local varieties.

The question about planting times is average and relatively northern latitudes The decision is clear: only in the spring! In most regions, this is the end of April; in the south, if you use spring planting, then even earlier. Autumn planting is practiced in those regions where there is no risk of the tree freezing in winter. For example, in Krasnodar region or Rostov region, apricot planting begins in mid-October and lasts for about a month. In the middle zone, if it is in the fall, then a little earlier.

Spring planting

In principle, there are two options: purchase a young grafted seedling or try to plant a seed, taking it from a trusted tree from one of your friends. This article discusses planting apricot seedlings, so just a few words about the seeds.

If you have reliable apricot seeds, it makes sense to spend an extra year, but be sure of what will grow on your plot. Properly prepared and planted apricot seeds germinate well and quickly grow to a strong, fruit-bearing tree.

The pits are removed from ripe apricots and soaked in water, after which they are dried and stored dry until spring. At the beginning of spring, they are soaked for a week, changing the water frequently. Then they are placed in damp sawdust or moss and transferred to a room with a temperature of +4 °C to +12 °C. The stratification process takes 1–3 months. When the peel bursts and sprouts appear, i.e. around the beginning of May, they are planted to a depth of 5–7 cm. Soon sprouts appear, and when proper care in a year the seedlings will be ready for planting permanent place.

Apricot kernels are the most reliable planting material

But let’s return to our seedlings, which we purchased in a reliable place. If suddenly this happened back in the fall, they should have been stored in our store or in the cellar. It is important that the seedling’s buds are still dormant.

It is better to prepare the planting hole for spring planting in the fall. In the spring there is simply neither the energy nor the time for this! To plant apricots, dig a hole measuring 70 x 70 x 70 cm or slightly larger.

To the bottom of the pit in case clay soil Place drainage - crushed stone, broken brick, etc. On sandy soil, drainage is not needed. In this case, you can put a little clay, 15–20 cm high, at the bottom of the hole to better retain irrigation water. Then pour in the soil taken out of the hole, after mixing it with fertilizers. As a mineral fertilizer, it is easiest to take a complex fertilizer, for example, nitrophoska, about 0.5 kg, and add 6-8 buckets of humus or at least half-rotted manure or compost. Acidic soil is neutralized by adding landing hole half a bucket of slaked lime. Don't forget about regular ash from burning wood residues. Ash is a source of potassium, which apricots love. You can put more of it, you can also put half a bucket. Ash is a “long-lasting” fertilizer.

Even when landing on a hill you will need a landing hole

As with any seedling, when purchasing an apricot Special attention pay attention to the condition of the roots. There should be several of them, they should be healthy, elastic, not dry. If present in large quantities damaged roots, they must be cut with pruning shears to a healthy place. Two-year-old seedlings are optimal for planting; they will bear fruit faster. But one-year-old twigs take root no worse, and sometimes even better.

It would be good to dip the roots of a seedling delivered to the site for planting in clay mash or at least let it swim until landing in the water.

Planting an apricot in a planting hole itself is almost no different from planting, for example, an apple tree, but we decided that our tree would grow on a mound. It's easier to plant with two people. And since it will be a mound, we will fill almost the entire hole with fertile soil and fertilizers, and then place the seedling on horizontal surface, having previously driven a strong stake into the hole. It must stand firmly and protrude from the ground by at least 80 cm. One of the gardeners holds the tree by the stem, straightening the roots, the other sprinkles clean fertile soil on them in small portions so that a hill is formed. From the top of the hill, after compacting the soil, the root collar should be visible. It’s even better if it is 3-4 centimeters higher than the top, but the neck cannot be underground! It is better to let some of the roots be slightly exposed, but the neck should be outward. After compacting the soil, loosely, using a figure of eight, tie the trunk of the seedling to the stake.

Here they are, newly constructed mounds around the seedlings

After planting, the apricot will have to be watered a lot until new roots grow, which will extract moisture themselves. Therefore, it is necessary to build a roller at the top of the hill so that when watering, the water remains available to the tree and does not drain in vain.

The first 2-3 buckets of water should be carefully poured under the seedling immediately after planting. During the first season, it is necessary to water frequently: the soil should not dry out. The following waterings are necessary every 1.5–2 weeks. Watering is stopped closer to autumn to prepare the trees for winter. Periodically, the mound needs to be slightly loosened. At the end of summer, you need to water the seedling with an infusion of ash so that it is better prepared for its first winter in a new place.

Planting apricot in autumn

So, let's say that you live in a region with a completely mild climate, where autumn planting of apricot trees is quite possible. What attracts gardeners to autumn planting? Firstly, in this case we may be talking about complete hardening of the seedling. But for this it is necessary that there be a decent period of time, more than a month, between planting and severe frosts. Secondly, I planted it in the fall, watered it - and you don’t need to do anything else: next water will provide autumn rains. True, apricots overwinter worse in very muddy soil, and excess water he doesn't need it.

What differences will there be in the procedure from the steps described above? Basically, everything from the point of view of choosing a location, soil composition, hole size and planting technique will be similar. Therefore, if you have not yet read about the technique of planting apricots in the spring, you should scroll back a little. There are only a few features.

The planting hole must be prepared at least a month before planting the apricot so that biological balance can be established in it. The pit is not touched until planting. During this time, the earth will compact and significantly settle. The seedling you purchase will probably still have leaves. This is bad. This means they were in a hurry to dig it up. But if this does happen, the leaves must be carefully torn off, the roots must be trimmed slightly, and then the seedling should be placed with its roots in a container of water so that it can drink well for future use. It’s even better if it’s a water infusion of mullein with clay. To prevent diseases, you can add 1% Bordeaux mixture. Further steps are the same as in the spring.

The seedlings are not covered with anything for the winter. Moreover, excess snow is thrown away, especially closer to spring, since the resulting persistent puddles can be even more harmful than moderate frost. For protection against rodents and sunburn in late autumn it makes sense to whiten the stem of the seedling. It is worth adding to the solution copper sulfate. For serious protection against hares, the stem can be tied with spruce branches.

At least for this it is worth planting a Christmas tree on the site

Next spring you will need to make sure that everything is in order and the seedling overwintered normally. It is possible to cut off the frozen branches, rake the soil away from the stem and loosen it well.

Do I need to prune apricots when planting?

The purpose of pruning a tree in the garden is to obtain a powerful crown accessible to the sun's rays. Young seedlings must be pruned after planting. While they are small, pruning remains very simple. If the seedling is an annual twig without branches, we simply shorten it at a height of 50–90 cm from the surface of the ground. Simply put, seedlings are shortened by about a third. Since next year, at a height of about 0.6 m, the apricot forms a future crown, consisting of 5–6 main branches, evenly spaced around the circumference of the tree.

The apricot crown is formed by pruning over several years.

If you plant an apricot with side branches, leave the two strongest ones, choosing the correctly located ones. They are cut in half. The rest are cut out completely, “to the ring.” The conductor is left such that it is 20–30 cm higher than the skeletal branches. All branches and buds that grow closer than half a meter from the ground are cut out. All cuts are covered with garden varnish.

How to replant an apricot in spring

Questions about transplanting apricots are almost never asked. There are few who believe that there is nothing complicated in replanting, that the tree will easily take root; they even say that this can be done throughout the season. Most modern gardening scientists are unanimous in the opinion that excess replanting of apricots can only be harmful. Apricots in a relatively mature state do not tolerate transplantation well..

It is better to immediately choose the right place and plant the tree forever. But if you really need to... Apparently, it’s worth recognizing that young trees (up to 3-4 years old) can be replanted, but very carefully and better in early spring.

This must be done before the buds awaken, in a planting hole prepared in the fall. This is serious stress for the apricot; it needs to increase its nutrition. The amount of fertilizer applied to the planting hole must be increased by one and a half times. You need to dig up the apricot very carefully, preserving the roots as much as possible. And plant in a new place immediately, if possible, then with a lump of earth. After planting, water very well. Not forgetting, of course, to cut off broken roots and branches, as well as shorten the main healthy ones.

If you decide to replant the apricot in the fall, then this must be done, making sure to preserve the earthen lump, wrapping it immediately after digging in thick fabric.

Features of planting apricot trees in the regions

It is worth repeating that apricot is still a heat-loving plant, and no matter how great the success in breeding zoned varieties, planting apricot in areas in middle lane, and even more so in Siberia is associated with considerable risk. IN southern regions Growing apricots is easy, especially on the fertile lands of Ukraine, Crimea or Kuban. However, with a lot of effort, it can be cultivated even in the Urals.

Somewhere there is an invisible border between areas where everything will definitely be fine, and where success is not guaranteed. This border is located somewhere at the latitude of the north of the Lower Volga region or Kharkov. North of this border there is always a risk. Freezing occurs often, and good harvests occur once every few years.

Planting apricots in the middle zone

In central Russia, apricots have been planted for quite a long time, but previously they were only poles - semi-wild trees with small fruits. IN Lately the range has expanded significantly, planting and large-fruited varieties, but necessarily grafted onto winter-hardy local rootstocks, possibly blackthorn or cherry plum. The most popular varieties are Red-cheeked, Honey, Northern Triumph, Lel, Aquarius, Alyosha. For more northern regions - Cellar, Success, Son of Krasnoshchekogo, Michurinets, etc. They tolerate frosts well, and, most importantly, frequent thaws. Quite convenient for dacha plantings and the Eastern Sayan variety, characterized by its compact size (no higher than 2.5–3 m), which makes it easier to care for.

One of the most popular varieties is Lel

In most areas of the middle zone, it is more reliable to place apricot seedlings on hills with a diameter of about 2 m and a height of up to 70 cm. Even the slightest lowlands are completely unsuitable for planting - they accumulate cold air, as well as excess water, which is even more dangerous for apricots than frost. If the site has a slope, it's okay. Only, no matter how strange it may seem, the slope should not be southern. And this is again due to the fact that apricot can withstand persistent frosts more easily than unexpected thaws. In addition, on southern slopes, seedlings will wake up earlier, which increases the risk of falling under return frosts. But the south side of the buildings is a good place. Moreover, sometimes summer residents even specially build some kind of light-colored shields so that the sun's rays warm up the apricot tree better.

The ideal soil is sandy loam, loam, but only with a neutral soil reaction. You don’t have to spare manure and ash, but from mineral fertilizers It is more convenient to use azofoska. Otherwise, the landing is performed exactly as described above. Optimally - in early spring, always before the buds open. Lovers autumn planting There are also some, but everyone chooses for themselves.

Planting apricots in the Moscow region

Of course, the Moscow region is also a middle zone. But the Moscow region stands apart in many matters. Even the greater population density and abundance industrial enterprises lead to the fact that the local climate is characterized by unpredictability. In winter, frosts are very often replaced by long thaws, and this is very bad for apricot trees: they lead to damping off of the roots and injury to them by the resulting ice crusts. During the winter thaw, if the air temperature rises to +5 o C, the trees come out of hibernation and begin active life, which then has an extremely negative effect on their condition. Suitable for the region only frost-resistant varieties, capable of withstanding winter thaws. The optimal areas for growing apricots in the Moscow region are the southern ones (Serpukhov, Chekhov, etc.).

The best rootstocks for apricot seedlings near Moscow are plum, sloe, and Manchurian apricot. Suitable varieties Iceberg, Alyosha, Aquarius, Tsarsky are considered, but many gardeners are sure that the best is Lel. There is a practice of planting apricots on special clonal rootstocks.

Planting is carried out only in spring, if they do not have a closed root system. Apricots in the Moscow region, as well as throughout the middle zone, must be planted on a mound 1.5–2 meters wide. Instead of drainage, slate is often placed at the bottom of the pit, metal sheets or other obstacle. Apricot roots will not be able to grow through it and will be directed to the sides, which will protect them from exposure groundwater.

The scheme for planting apricots on a hill involves fixing the seedling

The hill is sown on all sides with seeds of various herbs, maybe even spicy ones. As they grow, they are mowed down and left in place as natural mulch.

Planting apricots in Belarus

Belarus is characterized by wooded and marshy areas. There are almost no mountains here. The climate is characterized by sufficient humidity and relatively warm, as in the central regions of Russia. Of course, this is not the best region for growing apricots. It is mainly planted in the southern and southwestern regions (Gomel, Brest). In the northern regions, only the most winter-hardy local varieties are planted. However, prolonged winter thaws rarely occur in Belarus, and spring frosts Mostly occur after apricots have flowered, so the trees bear fruit almost every year. Just don’t plant apricots in lowlands or drained peatlands.

Apricots are planted with seeds from local varieties and grafted ready-made seedlings. Grafting apricot cuttings onto winter-hardy thorn and plum trees is also practiced. Varieties traditional for the republic are developed by local scientists (Znakhodka, Pamyat Loiko, Spadchyna). Varieties cultivated in Russia are suitable only for the southern regions.

In the south of Belarus it is often practiced summer vaccinations varietal eyes on seedlings of local varieties. In the first winter they are completely covered with earth. In other regions, they try to plant apricots as 1–2-year-old trees. Planting date is April. The landing technique is no different from the generally accepted one. However, in Belarus most soils are sandy. Therefore, a 20-centimeter layer of clay must be placed in the planting pits to retain moisture.

Apricot planting in the Urals

The territory of the Urals is a region with unstable weather and belongs to the zone of risky agriculture. Nevertheless, apricots are planted here too. In the Urals, it is possible to cultivate apricots provided they are planted in spring, but only fairly frost-resistant and unpretentious varieties. The most winter-hardy here are Amur, Seraphim, Minusinsk ruddy, Sibiryak Baikalova.

Apricot of the Seraphim variety - why not a southern fruit?

The main problem is not even freezing, but damping out of the root collar. It occurs at the end of February - beginning of March, when the snow begins to melt. Since the water constantly thaws and freezes again, it severely injures the cambium and, as a result, the tree slowly dies. Therefore, the peculiarities of apricot cultivation in the Urals are not even the planting technology itself, but the subsequent care of the seedlings. Already in November, if heavy snow falls within a radius of half a meter from the seedling, it must be removed. It’s better to let the ground freeze properly. The winter hardiness of the apricot root system is strong; it is practically not afraid of frost, unlike the ice crust in the soil. In March, the tree trunk circle is cleared of snow again.

The planting technique itself is common, but in the Ural region it is much safer to plant not apricot seedlings, but to grow trees from stones. To do this, several seeds are planted in the ground in the fall, they undergo natural stratification in the winter and sprout in the spring. Often the seeds are not even planted in shrubs, but immediately in a permanent place, in a pre-prepared planting hole. From several seedlings, the strongest is selected and cared for as if it were a real tree.

Planting apricots in Siberia

The harsh conditions of Siberia are characterized by winters with air temperatures reaching -40 o C, or even more. But it is known that a prolonged decrease in temperature below -25 is detrimental to apricots. Therefore, varieties for the Siberian zone must have exceptional winter-hardy properties. There are quite a few of these now, but preference is often given to the Khabarovsky and Sibiryak Baikalova varieties. Planting several trees different varieties desirable for reliable pollination.

Growing apricots in Siberia involves planting them on a hill and in no case in a depression. The best thing is a shallow mound to protect the roots from freezing. In this case, there should be enough land around the tree. After planting on the mound, it is good to sow grass; the apricot roots will only be warmer, and the sides of the mound, overgrown with grass, will not be disturbed. At the beginning of winter, some gardeners cover the tree trunk with a piece of linoleum or similar sheet material, keeping the tree free from snow. This includes warmth, dryness, and prevention of temperature changes in early spring. Snow is thrown away from the tree in winter.

Apricot seedlings grown from seeds in harsh Siberian conditions, much more reliable than those brought from other regions. Therefore, this technique is very often used, sowing seeds of local wild varieties, and using the resulting seedlings as rootstocks for cultivated forms.

In the most severe climates, where the temperature is unfavorable for growing apricots in standard form, it is formed in the shape of a slate. To do this, trees are planted under acute angle to the ground. The branches are pinned to the ground. The crown of such a “tree” is formed from a single tier located close to the surface. The remaining branches are cut into rings early in the spring. (Cutting branches into a ring if grown as an ordinary tree in Siberia is not allowed!).

Apricot - very tasty and exceptional healthy fruit. But it is not easy to grow it in a summer cottage throughout our entire territory. Nevertheless, it is worth trying to plant one or two trees. But this must be done taking into account some features that distinguish planting apricots from planting other fruit trees.

Proper planting of a personal plot is the key to an excellent harvest of berries and fruit crops. Every summer resident should know that when planting shrubs and trees, compatibility is very important fruit trees so that each plant has enough nutrients for growth and fruiting.

Regardless of the size of the plot, first of all you need to prepare the soil, since then it will be more difficult to correct something.

Soil requirements

What should the soil be like when planting a garden? Perfect option- fertile black soil. It is not advisable to plant trees and shrubs in sprayed soil; wetlands, as well as dense clayey and rocky ones, are not suitable.

It is highly undesirable to try to plant a garden in wetlands, dells and closed pits. You can try, you just need to fertilize the soil well and add a fertile mixture.

Fruit plants will not please you with a harvest even in areas with high watering, when groundwater passes almost to the surface. Plants will not be able to exist and develop in such harsh conditions; the roots will be constantly in water and will gradually rot from lack of nutrients and oxygen. If you are new to this business and do not yet know what kind of soil you have, as an experiment, you can plant several fruit bushes and observe the plant. If you see that the branches of a plant have begun to dry out even though the soil is well-moistened, this indicates that the plant lacks nutrients and the groundwater is too high. Of course, you can do otherwise and immediately invite specialists to assess the fertility of the soil and do everything in advance so that after planting there is no additional hassle with fertilizing and adding fertile mixture.

Is the groundwater level so important when planting seedlings? Of course, each plant has its own rules and regulations, so if you want to plant a pear or apple tree on your site, then it is very important to check the groundwater level; it should not reach 2 m from the surface of the earth. Plum and cherry are more picky in this regard, since optimal level The water level should be no closer than 15 m, but for such fruit bushes as raspberries, currants and gooseberries, it is possible for the groundwater level to be almost on the surface, but not closer than 1 m.

What you need to consider in order to correctly place all fruit trees and shrubs on the site:

1. Groundwater level.
2. Shading.
3. Plant compatibility.
4. Maintaining crop rotation.

When the year turns out to be dry, this has an extremely negative effect on the yield, but when the soil always remains wet, then this is also bad, the plants suffer from excess moisture. It is very important to determine the level of groundwater and take appropriate measures; if there is excess liquid, try to remove the moisture. In the lowlands, you can dig a ditch or plant those crops that need more moisture.

The basic rule when planting fruit trees is that all stone fruit crops should be planted higher, preferably in elevated areas. This is the only way to count on a good harvest.

Compatibility of trees and shrubs in the garden

Even in old textbooks for beginning gardeners there is very little information regarding the influence of plants on each other ( fruit bushes And fruit trees). All the knowledge experienced gardeners are gaining empirically, and then willingly share with newcomers. It turns out that it is not enough just to acquire a plot of land and buy various seedlings, and then get down to work together as a family. No, it turns out that when planting some trees in the garden, it is important to consider their compatibility. Perhaps the neighborhood will suppress plants growing nearby or, on the contrary, promote active growth. For example, apple trees that seem harmless at first glance cannot tolerate the close proximity of stone fruit trees such as plums and cherries. Therefore, if you want to plant these trees on your site, you must maintain a certain distance.

Compatibility diagram for trees and shrubs

It is very important to take into account the compatibility of trees with other plants, since each fruit tree or shrub secretes its own “secret”; such secretions can negatively affect the development of neighboring plants. This applies not only to above-ground action, but also to underground action, because each plant has its own root system. Each crop develops differently and it may turn out that one plant remains in the shade and is deprived of nutrition and sunlight, and the other will grow. It turns out that the so-called “powerful representatives” of fruit trees (these are some varieties of pears, apple trees and plums) will suppress the growth of fruit bushes and stone fruit trees. If you choose the right plants and plant them in a certain order, you can get not only a good harvest, but also protection from pests (the plants will independently protect each other from pests).

Pay attention to the compatibility table for fruit trees and shrubs in the garden:

Undesirable proximity of plants is highlighted in red, favorable proximity is highlighted in green. We draw conclusions: so, if you plant, for example Walnut next to any fruit bushes and trees, it will suppress the growth of these plants. It is known that this tree is not friendly with any fruit trees. Despite this, walnuts repel insects. You can plant this tree on your site, only away from bushes and fruit trees.

There are gardeners who dream of growing hazel on their plot, so as not to look for this tree in the forest, but to harvest it on their plot. Here, too, you need to be careful, since hazel also has a depressing effect on neighboring plants.

Check out the list of plants that do not get along with apple and pear trees:

• lilac;
• jasmine;
• fir;
• viburnum;
• horse chestnut

What can be planted close to a pear and apple tree:

• cherries;
• cherry;
• raspberries

And, of course, the apple tree. This tree feels good next to its fellows, even if the variety of apple tree is different. When planting young apple seedlings, you need to consider the following: do not try to plant a seedling in the place where the old apple tree grew. It is better to retreat at least a few meters from this place and plant a seedling, then the young apple tree will delight you with lush blossoms.

Tree compatibility when planting:

1. Cherries get along well with apple trees, grapes, and cherries. You can plant several cherry seedlings side by side. Plants will not interfere with each other. By the way, there should be no black currant bush next to the cherries.
2. We choose a place to plant plums - away from the pear and next to the black currants.
3. Cherries also need to be planted away from pears, apples, plums and cherry plums, as this tree with a powerful root system clogs other plants. It is not advisable to place shrubs such as raspberries, gooseberries and currants (red and white) in the vicinity of cherries.
4. If you want to plant blackberries or raspberries right under a peach or apricot to save space on your plot, then these shrubs will delight you with a rich harvest.
5. Raspberries and red currants do not get along with each other.
6. Mulberry also does not tolerate proximity to other trees and shrubs; it can only be “friends” with its fellows, so next to the mulberry you can plant another mulberry seedling, only of a different variety, so as not to repeat it.
7. Sea buckthorn is a prickly plant that does not get along with other trees and shrubs. Neighborhood with walnuts is also undesirable.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the layout option for your personal plot. Dimensions 24x40 m:

Along the perimeter of the site (borders on 3 sides) you can plant fruit bushes: rose hips, raspberries, currants, sea buckthorn or plant ornamental trees. In the upper right corner, select a place to grow garden crops, and to separate the border between the vegetable garden and the orchard, plant a row of apple trees. Next to the recreation area with right side The area will feel great fruit trees: cherry and plum, and in the shade of these trees you can put a bench to relax in the midday heat. Strawberries, strawberries, roses and other flowers can be planted on the opposite side of the plot so that these plants do not interfere with others.

By the way, roses do not tolerate proximity to other plants, so try to allocate a separate place for the queen of the flower.

Fruit trees and shrubs do not really like the close proximity to birch; this tree needs to be planted away from buildings, orchard and garden crops. A powerful root system pulls maximum nutrients from the ground and takes all the moisture. For the same reason, it is undesirable to plant coniferous trees and maples nearby. If there is enough space on your site, then you can take a chance and plant several spruce and birch trees. By the way, you can plant fern or periwinkle under the wide crown of maples.

Another feature of coniferous trees that needs to be taken into account: spruce trees are capable of acidifying the soil, so ferns, calla lilies or begonias can be planted next to coniferous trees. These plants love acidic soils. But stone fruit trees and pome trees, on the contrary, cannot tolerate acidic soils.

If you want each plant to receive maximum nutrients, you need to take into account the rules of compatibility of fruit trees in the garden, and also do not forget about the composition of the soil. If on average acidic soil Crops such as strawberries, apple trees, gooseberries and cherries will do well, but other crops will require a different soil composition. To get closer to the ideal and “make” the soil slightly acidic, you can bring some soil from a coniferous forest or buy peat.

Neutral soils are ideal for growing garden crops and most garden plants, as well as flowers. If you love roses, peonies, chrysanthemums and carnations, you can stock up on seeds. Slightly acidic soils suitable for growing lilies, but slightly alkaline ones will be ideal for garden crops such as cabbage, carrots and onions.

It is necessary to promptly clear the area of ​​fallen leaves, since the discharge of some plants negatively affects the development of neighboring crops. Thus, coniferous trees and chestnut trees disturb other trees with their secretions. The list can be expanded: these are oak, elderberry, willow and poplar.

When choosing plants that can be planted on the site, it is necessary to take into account their compatibility with flowers and the adaptability of each plant to different types soil So, roses and begonias will need stable watering, but irises, cornflowers and carnations can do without moisture for a long time.

Rules for planting trees:

It may seem that growing a garden on a summer cottage is very simple, but this is not entirely true. Trees, of course, are not people, but they can also be dissatisfied with the proximity to any of the inhabitants of the garden. Each of them has its own character and individual characteristics, so not everyone can get along with other plants in the garden.

What plants can live next to each other?

This is the first thing you need to think about when planting trees. Scientifically, plant compatibility is called allelopathy, which can be negative or positive. In the first case, shrubs and trees “fight” with each other and cannot grow and develop normally, but in the second, the neighborhood turns out to be mutually beneficial and useful.

Pear, rowan and apple trees get along well - they can be planted side by side without any fear. But walnuts have a very bad effect on their neighbors. This is a toxic tree that harms all fruit crops, so it is better to plant it on the edge of the site or near a fence, away from other plants.

The picky cherry tree also does not favor other trees near it. You should not plant apricots, pears, or plums near it, otherwise they will develop poorly and may even die.

Compatibility of apple and cherry trees

Apple trees are very flexible trees - many plants feel good next to them. True, this does not always benefit apple trees. As for cherries, they like to be adjacent to sweet cherries, cherry plums, cherries and apple trees. Sweet cherry and cherry plum are related plants to cherries, so with them it will feel good even in tight spaces.

Cherry and apple trees get along well with each other, but when planting it is necessary to maintain a distance. If the trees are short, then you need to leave 2.5 meters between them, and if they are tall, 4 meters. The reason is that the roots of these plants have a depressing effect on each other, and if they are planted close, the trees will die.

Apple and cherry trees prefer to grow in the same soil - medium acidic or close to neutral. To get such soil, it is worth adding peat or soil from a coniferous forest to the soil. If an old stone fruit tree - cherry, plum or sweet cherry - has been uprooted, then next to this place it is worth planting pome trees - an apple tree or a pear tree.

Differences between cherry and apple trees

Despite the fact that these plants are good neighbors, there are quite a lot of differences between them. For example, if you are unlucky with the variety of apple tree and you come across a wild one, then no amount of effort will allow you to get good and tasty fruits from it. This is not the case with cherries - any tree is capable of producing an acceptable harvest.

There are a few more differences. The apple tree loves to be next to coniferous trees, but for cherries this is extremely undesirable. An apple tree will grow in acidic soil; for a cherry tree such an environment is completely unacceptable. Apple trees do not necessarily need a lot of light; they will accept partial shade, while cherry trees only require a sunny position for normal development.

The cherry tree has a more capricious disposition compared to the apple tree, but if you follow the planting rules, then these crops can peacefully coexist side by side and bring a rich harvest.

Pear is a fruit crop that grows well only if there are no conflicting plants nearby on the site. To ensure this, you need to take into account the characteristics of the proximity (allelopathies) of crops and plant trees correctly nearby. Thus, some trees and shrubs - maple, currant, raspberry - increase the yield of the tree. Others - cherry, plum, juniper - can lead to a decrease in yield and death of the plant. This happens in cases where they conflict: they fight for light, food, moisture. In this material we will look at which plants can be planted in a pear orchard, and which should be planted as far away as possible so that they do not harm each other.

What can be planted in the garden next to the pear: vegetables, flowers, trees

In the same area with pome crops, you can plant currant and raspberry bushes, maple, rowan, oak, and black poplar. These plants will protect the pear orchard from diseases and pests; they help improve the soil and increase crop yields. In the tree trunk circle (pit) you can plant vegetables - tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers - they allow you to rid the garden of various pests that cannot stand their smell. As for whether it is possible to plant a flower, the answer is - it depends. Cherry plum, for example, has no effect on cherries.

You can plant apple trees, including decorative ones, in the neighborhood. When planting plants, you just need to take care that the tree crowns do not interfere with each other.

Malina

This is one of best neighbors for fruit trees different varieties. It is a natural nitrogen fixer for the soil and allows you to saturate the root system of the tree with oxygen. If the shrub grows in close proximity to the tree trunk, it will protect the plant from and, to which the pear is prone. The fruit tree, in turn, will be able to protect the raspberries from rot, which often affects such bushes.

It must be remembered that raspberries require a lot of sunlight for normal growth. When planting this shrub on your site, make sure that it is not shaded by the tree crown.

Currants or gooseberries

These crops are compatible, since currants love shady places and will feel good under a large pear crown. To prevent plants from competing for nutritional elements, it is necessary to provide them good feeding. If this is not done, the tree may eventually crowd out the bush. Read about the Gulliver currant variety in.

It is best to plant black currants or gooseberries near the pear. Other varieties of this shrub need sunlight. If they do not receive it from the tree crown, their yield will decrease very quickly, and in a few years the currants will die altogether. The productivity of pear trees will also suffer from such a neighborhood.

Black poplar

This is one of the best plants, which can be placed near the pear planting. Black poplar releases phytoncides in large quantities. The substances produced by it not only allow you to get rid of the codling moth and some other insects, but also accelerate the growth of the pear. In this regard, it is very good to place it next to young trees so that their crowns do not overlap in the future. In the future, such a neighborhood will contribute to high productivity of the orchard.

Ash maple

Maple allows you to rid the garden of. Maple leaves secrete phytoncides that repel pests. Such a neighborhood will allow the gardener to get a good harvest with minimal effort, and also to refuse some species, and especially during the growing season.

Maple leaves secrete phytoncides that repel pests.

If the garden needs codling moth prevention, it will be enough to crush a few maple leaves - they will release phytoncides in the required quantity.

It is not at all necessary to contain large maples on the site. If you do not want their crown to interfere with fruit crops, simply prune the trees regularly. This will allow you to control their growth.

What you can’t plant in your dacha next to a pear tree

Cherry

It is highly undesirable to plant this tree next to a pear. There are several reasons for this:

• Firstly, cherry has superficial roots, due to which it oppresses other plants on the site. If you plant a young fruit tree next to it, it will not grow.
• Secondly, Cherries and pears have quite a few common diseases and pests; they will constantly infect each other. This can lead not only to a decrease in yield, but also to the death of trees.

If there is already a cherry tree on a neighbor’s plot, and you want to plant a pear, make sure that these plants are as far apart as possible. Do not plant them at a distance of less than 6 meters.

Peach or apricot

This neighborhood is also extremely undesirable. Peach and apricot greatly inhibit the root system of other trees. In close proximity to it, pear seedlings will quickly die, and old trees will first reduce their yield and then begin to dry out. If there are any other fruit trees on the site, the peach branches may become bare, and the plant itself will be less resistant to diseases and pests. The yield of the peach itself will also fall.

If you decide to plant a peach and a pear in the same area, make sure that there is a distance of at least 7 meters between the trees. Then they will not harm each other.

Walnut

The leaves of this plant are very dangerous for fruit trees. The fact is that they contain a lot of disinfectants. When the leaves grow on the nut, they release disinfectants into the air and help protect the garden from various diseases. However, during rain, these substances from fallen leaves fall into the ground. They have a detrimental effect on the root system of the pear, which can lead not only to a decrease in yield, but also to the death of the tree.

But you can learn how to choose a rootstock for a pear from this.

It is not only the walnut that is dangerous for the fruit tree. The leaves of the Manchurian and Tatar varieties are no less harmful. When decomposed, they can also destroy the root system of the pear.

Plum of different varieties

Plum of any variety provokes a decrease in the yield of pears, deterioration appearance wood, in some cases - drying out. Like cherries, plums have quite a few diseases and pests, to which various pear varieties are prone. If at least one crop on the site becomes infected with them, it will be extremely difficult to remove them. Due to this proximity, the plum itself will also have low productivity, and its fruits will not be high taste qualities. You can find out why the pear does not bear fruit.

It is advisable to plant the plum in the far part of the garden. This is due to the fact that it does not get along well not only with pears, but also with apples, nuts and many other plants.

Juniper should not be planted nearby

This plant can become a source, which subsequently cannot be removed from the pear. Typically, infection with this disease appears in the first year after planting. The risk of infection does not depend on the age of the plants, nor their general condition- a healthy fruit tree will also suffer from such a neighborhood.

Also, you should not plant a pear in your garden if there is already a wild juniper growing in the neighboring area. Rust from it can spread to your crop. An exception can be made only for fruit plants planted in greenhouses.

Video

Video about which plants get along with each other.

conclusions

1. The pear is a capricious crop that is not compatible with all trees and shrubs on the site; it is important to prepare a good place for it at the dacha. Some species can inhibit its development and even lead to the death of the plant.
2. The proximity to raspberries and currants is favorable for this crop. Planting maple and poplar have a good effect on the fertility and growth of pear seedlings. They also secrete phytoncides that repel the codling moth. Read what you can plant next to currants.
3. Pears, cherries and plums have common diseases. They are not planted next to each other.
4. A peach can destroy a pear in a few years.
5. Various nuts are the most dangerous for fruit crops - the substances contained in their leaves can destroy the root system of the tree.

When growing cherries garden plot Many summer residents are faced with problems in choosing neighbors for fruit trees. Indeed, the success of growing cherries and obtaining personal plot great harvest. We will tell you in more detail how to choose the right neighbors for fruit trees and what to plant under the cherry tree.

Is it possible to plant one cherry tree on a plot?

Modern summer cottages they do not differ large area. Therefore, gardeners try to make the most efficient use of the available acres and plant one or more trees and plants of various species nearby on the site.

Many gardeners have a reasonable question: is it possible to plant one cherry tree on a plot, and whether it will bear fruit. It should be said that all varieties of cherries are divided into self-sterile and self-fertile.

Self-sterile - they cannot pollinate themselves; pollinator varieties must be planted near them.

Self-fertile varieties can pollinate flowers with their own pollen, so they do not require proximity to other cherry trees. Self-fertile varieties of cherries can be planted singly on a plot, and such trees will bear fruit well.

If you choose self-sterile varieties, then nearby (at a distance of 5-10 meters) you need the proximity of other varieties of cherry trees. They will pollinate each other, allowing you to get a good harvest on the site.
Among the self-fertile varieties we can note the following:

• Melitopol dessert,
• Meeting,
• Ksenia,
• Nord Star,
• Youth,
• Tray.

Bad neighbors for cherries

Determined that various plants, planted next to each other, can both positively influence the growth of their neighbors and inhibit them or infect them with various infectious and fungal diseases.

That is why gardeners need to consider compatibility and choose neighbors for cherries accordingly. This will be the key to good productivity and maximum efficiency in using the garden.

If we talk about the fact that it is not recommended to plant next to cherries, then it should be noted:

• Eggplants,
• Tomatoes,
• Tobacco,
• Any variety of pepper
• Nightshade plants.

Trees and plants with a strong root system will actively absorb the beneficial microelements necessary for cherries from the soil. This will lead to a significant weakening of fruit plantings.

In addition, powerful trees have a spreading crown, which leads to darkening of part of the garden, and in the shade, without sunlight, any fruit crops will grow poorly.

The minimum distance when planting cherry and apple trees on a plot will be a distance of 10-15 meters. Otherwise, the apple trees, which are large in size and actively growing, will simply suppress the cherries, significantly reducing the gardener’s harvest.

Pear is essentially a neutral fruit plants, which do not in any negative way affect the condition of the cherry tree.

But we must take into account that pear and cherry, which are planted nearby, require the same micronutrients. Since the pear has a developed root system, such a tree will take microelements and nutrition from the cherry. This can lead to reduced yields. Therefore, if you do not plan to heavily fertilize your plantings, it is best to refrain from such a neighborhood.

As a result, the gardener will be forced to constantly treat raspberries and cherries for various infectious diseases. To avoid this, it is still recommended to plant raspberries and cherries on different sides of the garden. The minimum removal of raspberries will be a distance of 15 meters.

Gooseberries planted in close proximity have a negative effect on the root system of cherries. Therefore, it would be good to plant such plants on different sides of the garden, which will eliminate various diseases and problems with the development of plantings.

What to plant under the cherry tree

Gardeners quite often, when growing plants on a plot of land, think about what to plant in the lower tier. Indeed, in the immediate vicinity of cherries you can plant various vegetables, fruits, plants and shrubs. This ensures maximum efficiency in using the available space.

Neighborhood with currants

Growing black currants, which are unpretentious and allow you to get a delicious harvest, is very popular among gardeners. When you choose neighbors for cherries, and plan to place black currants nearby, then know that cherries and currants need different chemical composition earth.

It is for this reason that black currants will not be able to bear fruit well if planted in close proximity to cherries. But if you provide appropriate care, the currants will bear fruit well. Just remember that you need to choose shade-loving varieties of currants so that they can grow in the shade of the crown.

Apricot

IN last years Varieties of apricots, zoned in central Russia, began to enjoy popularity among gardeners. Apricot is a stone fruit plant, but it is still not recommended to plant it next to other trees.

The fact is that these plants have different agricultural techniques: they have
differences in watering regime and require appropriate care. Therefore, they will definitely grow poorly next to each other.

It is not recommended to plant peach crops nearby, as they will not grow well. It has been noticed that peaches soon weaken, their bark becomes exposed, which in turn negatively affects frost resistance. Such a peach dies quickly, and it is noted Negative influence even if you plant it at a distance of 7 meters or more.

What to plant cherries with

With cherries

Cherries can be planted in close proximity to cherries, which will solve problems with cross-pollination of these fruit crops. Just remember that the plantings themselves should not touch each other with their crowns.

The optimal distance at which cherries can grow is a distance of at least 6 meters. It is also taken into account that cherries have a somewhat larger feeding area and a strong root system, therefore for medium and large-sized varieties of cherries minimum distance It is best to increase to 8-10 meters. In this case, cherries will give you an excellent harvest.

With plum

Plums - good neighbors cherries, so they get along well with each other. It is allowed to plant plums in close proximity to the main plantings, provided that the crown sizes of specific varieties are combined.

The best distance would be 4-6 meters from each other. In every specific case The distance at which these crops can be planted is chosen depending on the size of the particular plum variety.

Honeysuckle

Honeysuckle will be a good neighbor. This is a small shrub that allows you to get tasty, healthy berries. Honeysuckle will become excellent choice to land near trunk circle. The minimum removal of shrub plantings will be one and a half to two meters.

At what distance should cherries be planted in the garden?

Apple trees are one of the most common fruit crops grown by gardeners today. You just need to take into account the compatibility of cherries and plant these trees correctly on the site.

It is with determining the distance at which apple trees can be planted and cherry trees, gardeners have certain problems. We said earlier that it is not recommended to plant such fruit crops nearby, because they negatively affect each other.

Therefore, you should adhere to a minimum distance of 10 meters when planting an apple tree. In this case, you should take into account the crown size of the apple tree varieties that grow on your site. For large-sized ones, the minimum distance should be increased to 12-15 meters. By correctly determining the minimum distance for planting these crops, you can grow an excellent harvest on your site.